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1973 Charger Power Steering Rag Joint and Coupler

Sorta like this???
DSCF3932.JPG
 
It's a fan spacer, they do come in various sizes. I didn't do it but it is in my car and one day, when I get time and money, I will replace it when I finally get to install my power steering set up. Parking and maneuvering with manual steering sux!
 
There is something wrong there. The spacer AND the coupler together?


I guess due a lenght diff between the power steering shaft an the manual steering shaft?
 
So.....WELL into year two and absolutely no issues with the puck.
 
My biggest issue with the puck is there is no fail safe like there is with the factory piece. Maybe I am being overly cautious but I have no idea what would happen to some of these home brew fixes in a front end collision.

I came across a thread last night that referenced a Land Rover biscuit that looks a lot like the factory one and the triumph piece. Again, I could find no specs on the thing so I ordered one and will post a report when it arrives.
 
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actually, you can remove the puck completely and the mounting points for the bolts will hit each other after about a 1/6 rotation of the wheel.

Super sloppy, but steerable in an emergency.
 
The colapsible column should respond faster than the coupler in a collision. These couplers are designed just to save the flexibility of the front suspension due the K member isolations and isolate the vibrations on steering wheel, not really a collision safety system.
 
Actually, for the cost of a puck, just keep a predrilled one in the trunk! LOL
 
It drilled as chips, not a melted spiral like low temp plastic or rubber.

I have 100% confidence it will hold up at least as well as the original.
 
I'm guessing switching to a '74 column is out of the question?

I never knew they were different between 73-74...seems like a really dumb idea, but the use of a hockey puck is brilliant! As YY1 mentioned, they don't melt (I've drilled 100's for work in freezers down to -80C) so very good chance they hold up.
 
I think it was mentioned.. change to 74 could be easy but still need 73 parts because the firewall opening won’t match. Column firewall bracket changes a lot between both years.
 
I got the Land Rover part. The pn is NTC3486, and it is very similar to the Triumph parts that I posted. I got mine for $7 but with shipping from the UK it was closer to $25. I measured it up last night and the bolt hole spacing outside to outside is 61mm, while the column bolts measure around 58mm. Not a direct replacement but several C-body people say it works, so I suppose I will have to mock it up and make a decision. The height is 1.3 inches which is slightly taller than stock but I am assuming will not make a major difference.

I wonder who made the originals? Obviously the "lugs" are still produced, if the rubber mold is still around it shouldn't be too hard to crank a couple out. Alternatively, I would also feel better about using the puck if it retained the factory style lugs and not just a steel tube. I don't have the equipment necessary to drill the puck properly to accept my originals though - a home drill press would probably just make a mess of it.

NTC3486.jpg
 
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Just wanted to post a correction, it should have read 53mm above on the LR puck, not 58mm.

Originally when I looked at this I measured the bolt heads in the yoke which was 50mm. I measured center-to-center on the strap instead this time, which is a more accurate measurement, and the spacing is nearly identical to the LR puck (around 52.7~ mm).
 
I drilled my puck with a hand drill, after finding the approximate centers using the "overlapping arc" method.

Pretty darn easy and no special tools other than a cheap dollar store compass.

I have a drill press available but the hand held drill was easier for this job
 
...and now we're in year three.

I am now absolutely 100% there will be no issue.
 
I was just at Carlisle and saw someone had an excellent rag joint available. It’s the complete rag joint to coupler. I didn’t buy it, but they were packing up as I came by.

I have their contact info if anyone is interested.
 
I was just at Carlisle and saw someone had an excellent rag joint available. It’s the complete rag joint to coupler. I didn’t buy it, but they were packing up as I came by.

I have their contact info if anyone is interested.

My hockey puck seems to be holding up but would be interested in the contact information!

Thanks!
 
I am having my steering box rebuilt. While it is out of the car I checked my rag joint and no surprise it is pretty rough. The other coupler (highlighted in attached) just up from the rag joint is also in disrepair.

Any suggestions on whether to try and replace the rubber in the rag joint (only able to find a Dorman Help replacement part number 31002) and rebuild the coupler or go to some other design? I have heard of U joint style replacements or even something about going to a 1974 style which I have no idea what that looks like.

Thanks!

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