Need coil hook up help

pearljam724 · Apr 13, 2019

I installed a new distributor cap and oil filled coil. Now my engine won’t fire. I have an electronic Petronix ignition on my original distributor. I know for a fact I had 3 wires connected to the old coil. Im sure, I positive and one negative from the distributor connects to the coil accordingly. But, maybe I incorrectly connected the 3rd wire ? I believe the 3rd wire is green and came from the ballast resistor. I need to know if that ballast resistor wire connects to positive or negative on the coil ?

BeepBeepRR · Apr 13, 2019

c-ignition-wiring-diagram-chrysler-wiring-of-mopar-electronic-ignition-conversion-wiring-diagram.jpg

Crider · Apr 14, 2019

The wire from the ballist resistor goes to the positive side

HALIFAXHOPS · Apr 14, 2019

Third wire could be a noise suppressor. Looks like a condenser on the side of the coil or sometimes the firewall. Origionally points? Also a petronix you want to by pass the ballast resistor. A lot of people leave them and jump the back of the resistor.

pearljam724 · Apr 14, 2019

HALIFAXHOPS said:
Third wire could be a noise suppressor. Looks like a condenser on the side of the coil or sometimes the firewall. Origionally points? Also a petronix you want to by pass the ballast resistor. A lot of people leave them and jump the back of the resistor.

Yeah, I have considered that. But, I’ve also heard that you can risk a fire by doing so. I had the green wire hooked to the negative. I ll mess around with it later today.

HALIFAXHOPS · Apr 15, 2019

If your running petronix it has to be removed or jumped to run its full capability.

HALIFAXHOPS · Apr 15, 2019

Reb and black from petronix to respective coil terminals green is the power so it goes on the pos terminal. Makes sense now.

pearljam724 · Apr 15, 2019

HALIFAXHOPS said:
If your running petronix it has to be removed or jumped to run its full capability.

I’ve heard that too. Im probably going to end up jumping it. When I get around to switching the connection.

HALIFAXHOPS · Apr 16, 2019

A lot of guys take the resistor out of the back and run the wire inside is what I meant not just over the back. You can just jump the wires together also. Look at a instruction sheet also for the petronix, walks you right through it also.

pearljam724 · Apr 16, 2019

Yah hoo !!! That was it. But, that’s not why I’m excited. Since buying this car. It always had initial start up issues. After several cranks, once it would fire it was good to go on each occurrence. It doesn’t have an electric or manual choke. I knew in my mind that was related in the past. Well, low and behold after I did some upgrading and fixing. After I switched that ballast wire it fired to life the first motor rotation and idled immediately. This was the first start attemp since December. Before, it would never idle until it reached operating temp. Once again, I thought that was no choke related. It always had an electric ignition. All I did was, change the plugs,coil, distributor cap, rotor and battery cable. Battery cable was split and corroded down by the starter. I know that helped too.

HALIFAXHOPS · Apr 17, 2019

Nice!

Need coil hook up help

pearljam724

Well-Known Member

BeepBeepRR

Well-Known Member

Crider

Well-Known Member

HALIFAXHOPS

MSGT(ret) and MOPAR only distributor rebuilder!

pearljam724

Well-Known Member

HALIFAXHOPS

MSGT(ret) and MOPAR only distributor rebuilder!

HALIFAXHOPS

MSGT(ret) and MOPAR only distributor rebuilder!

pearljam724

Well-Known Member

HALIFAXHOPS

MSGT(ret) and MOPAR only distributor rebuilder!

pearljam724

Well-Known Member

HALIFAXHOPS

MSGT(ret) and MOPAR only distributor rebuilder!

Similar threads