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Rear glass installation advice needed

Bob Sawyer

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I had a local glass company tech to stop by and look at my 68 Charger. I'm ready to install the windshield and rear glass. The windshield is not a problem since it sits in the moulded rubber seal. The rear glass is the one he is concerned about. He mentioned that the glass setting urethane will push out along the inside edge of the glass run and will be visible from the outside. Makes sense.
He did say that back in the day (he's been doing glass work for 40 years)they used a rope type rubber seal.
My question is, what have you folks been doing for the rear glass installation on the b-bodies? How do you keep the urethane from pushing out along the edges? Is there anything else on the market that works?
Any advice/help is appreciated.
 
We don’t use urethane to install that glass, use the 3M window weld glass install kit. The auto paint stores have been selling it for years. It comes in a flat box with a roll of sealer with paper between the rolls, and 2 small rubber blocks to hold the window up in the channel at the bottom edge.

Learn to do this yourself, you don’t need to pay a glass guy to screw it up for you! Don’t get your hand oils on the glass at install or it will leak where you touch it.

The auto glass guys are lazy and want to use the caulking gun for everything these days, it the wrong way to go on our classic cars. It will flow out and fill the lower channel, you will never get the trim on. If he puts on the trim when urethane is wet then the trim will never come off again.

His shows the rubber blocks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08611
Here is a photo of the box
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08612

I like to use 5/16” ribbon. Once on a 70 Cuda rear glass and the trim had a slight gap to the glass and customer was fussing. So I asked him, “if the 3/8” is too thick and the trim won’t go on then what?”

Would you like some instructions? Everything needs to be clean, including your hands. Use a razor blade to remove all sealer from the glass, use lacquer thinner to degrease it. Body should be clean with new paint, not rustoleum or rattle can paint either. Real catalyzed auto paint. Your new window trim clips should all be installed at this time.
(Old way was to use 3M window weld primer on the surface where the ribbon sealer lays down. But they don’t sell it anymore. They have a one step primer for urethane, which may be good. I don’t have that answer right now.)

Wash your hands well so they don’t have any grease and oil on them. Or find some gloves that won’t stick to the ribbon sealer, or leave residue or fibers in the sealer. Warm the ribbon on a heater or the oven, it will be very tacky now. Roll it out on the flat surface where the glass mounts to the car, start and finish at bottom center and put the ends side by side. Put a rubber block at bottom of the channel on each end where the straight edge of the glass will rest on them. These will hold the weight of the glass and keep it from sliding down and contacting the body or the trim clips.

Measure the width of the channel then the glass width so you can center the glass in the body. Nice to have a helper here both with very clean hands or gloves here is vital. Place the glass over the window opening tilting the top out from the body a few inches, place the glass on the rubber blocks and put the top of the glass into the channel on the ribbon sealer. Press the glass all around the perimeter to stick it to the sealer.

You are done! You can water test it before installing the trim. You may need to use some other glass sealer if you have leaks, but it should be a good seal from glass to body and it may have leaks elsewhere. Install the trim when you are done.

This is allot of reading but doesn’t take very long to install it. You will argue with the glass guy and his urethane caulking gun longer than this install will take you.
 
Last edited:
I seem to remember there being spacers to keep the glass at the right height.
 
We don’t use urethane to install that glass, use the 3M window weld glass install kit. The auto paint stores have been selling it for years. It comes in a flat box with a roll of sealer with paper between the rolls, and 2 small rubber blocks to hold the window up in the channel at the bottom edge.

Learn to do this yourself, you don’t need to pay a glass guy to screw it up for you! Don’t get your hand oils on the glass at install or it will leak where you touch it.

The auto glass guys are lazy and want to use the caulking gun for everything these days, it the wrong way to go on our classic cars. It will flow out and fill the lower channel, you will never get the trim on. If he puts on the trim when urethane is wet then the trim will never come off again.

His shows the rubber blocks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08611
Here is a photo of the box
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08612

I like to use 5/16” ribbon. Once on a 70 Cuda rear glass and the trim had a slight gap to the glass and customer was fussing. So I asked him, “if the 3/8” is too thick and the trim won’t go on then what?”

Would you like some instructions? Everything needs to be clean, including your hands. Use a razor blade to remove all sealer from the glass, use lacquer thinner to degrease it. Body should be clean with new paint, not rustoleum or rattle can paint either. Real catalyzed auto paint. Your new window trim clips should all be installed at this time.
(Old way was to use 3M window weld primer on the surface where the ribbon sealer lays down. But they don’t sell it anymore. They have a one step primer for urethane, which may be good. I don’t have that answer right now.)

Wash your hands well so they don’t have any grease and oil on them. Or find some gloves that won’t stick to the ribbon sealer, or leave residue or fibers in the sealer. Warm the ribbon on a heater or the oven, it will be very tacky now. Roll it out on the flat surface where the glass mounts to the car, start and finish at bottom center and put the ends side by side. Put a rubber block at bottom of the channel on each end where the straight edge of the glass will rest on them. These will hold the weight of the glass and keep it from sliding down and contacting the body or the trim clips.

Measure the width of the channel then the glass width so you can center the glass in the body. Nice to have a helper here both with very clean hands or gloves here is vital. Place the glass over the window opening tilting the top out from the body a few inches, place the glass on the rubber blocks and put the top of the glass into the channel on the ribbon sealer. Press the glass all around the perimeter to stick it to the sealer.

You are done! You can water test it before installing the trim. You may need to use some other glass sealer if you have leaks, but it should be a good seal from glass to body and it may have leaks elsewhere. Install the trim when you are done.

This is allot of reading but doesn’t take very long to install it. You will argue with the glass guy and his urethane caulking gun longer than this install will take you.
WOW! Thanks for that information. I will certainly do this based on your instructions here.
Now, any advice on installing the front windshield?
 
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