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A-833 trans removal 70 roadrunner

Marc

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Hamilton,Ontario
I have to remove my 4 spd, Drive shaft is out, so guess my question is ,do i have to remove the crossmember that holds the trans mount or will the trans come out if i remove the one bolt holding the rubber mount ? also can i just remove the shifter handle or do i have to remove all the linkages and mounting plate ? not sure if it is attached to trans or the car body, any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
remove just shifter handle and yes you need to remove the crossmember. Dont forget wires on trans and speedo cable
 
linkage and shifter is bolted to trans.
 
No offense, but it appears from your questions you have not previously done this job. A couple words of caution:

1) The transmission is heavy. Having a transmission jack is highly recommended. If not, a strong friend. Don't try and muscle it out by yourself. Good way to get hurt. Don't ask me how I know this.
2) Be careful not to let the transmission 'hang' in place once you've started to slide it out. Letting it hang will likely bend the clutch disc center. Perhaps you're replacing the disc and don't care, but it's still not recommended. Best to support it well and slide it all the way back/out in one motion, until the input shaft is clear of the bell housing opening, then lower it.
3) You'll need to provide support at the rear of the engine. A scissors jack with a board across the back of the oil pan would suffice.
4) Transmission fluid will run out of the rear end of the 4 speed. If by chance you have another slip yoke, put it in the rear of the trans before starting to pull it out. If not, a couple good baggies slipped over the end and secured with strong rubber bands or duct tape would work.
5) Remember to disconnect the battery!
6) Removing the shifter and linkage arms allows the trans to come out a bit cleaner in my experience.

Good luck!
 
No offense, but it appears from your questions you have not previously done this job. A couple words of caution:

1) The transmission is heavy. Having a transmission jack is highly recommended. If not, a strong friend. Don't try and muscle it out by yourself. Good way to get hurt. Don't ask me how I know this.
2) Be careful not to let the transmission 'hang' in place once you've started to slide it out. Letting it hang will likely bend the clutch disc center. Perhaps you're replacing the disc and don't care, but it's still not recommended. Best to support it well and slide it all the way back/out in one motion, until the input shaft is clear of the bell housing opening, then lower it.
3) You'll need to provide support at the rear of the engine. A scissors jack with a board across the back of the oil pan would suffice.
4) Transmission fluid will run out of the rear end of the 4 speed. If by chance you have another slip yoke, put it in the rear of the trans before starting to pull it out. If not, a couple good baggies slipped over the end and secured with strong rubber bands or duct tape would work.
5) Remember to disconnect the battery!
6) Removing the shifter and linkage arms allows the trans to come out a bit cleaner in my experience.

Good luck!
No offense taken, You are correct this is my first time,I was going to do it myself as it doesn't look that big or heavy I am almost there.I will get a friend to help now.Than you so much for these great tips a lot of these i never would of thought of. Guess you mean that the engine can be allowed to move a little or better that i support it so it doesn't move at all? Engine is a 440 and it looks real heavy worried about bending the oil pan but it seems you have done this a few times so i will follow your instruction, Thanks so much
 
Some good advice given on this thread that you should follow. In my case, back in the day, I had a 727 tranny fall and pin my arm - not fun. These things are heavy and can hurt you. Also, as stated, the engine needs to be supported. The engine and transmission assembly are held in with three contact points, two motor mounts and the transmission mount. When you loosen the transmission you remove the rear mounting of the engine, so you don't want to let it hang. A board to distribute the weight on the oil pan will do fine.

I know I'm not offering anything new here, but just wanted to reinforce the good advice given above. Work smart and good luck!
 
Some good advice given on this thread that you should follow. In my case, back in the day, I had a 727 tranny fall and pin my arm - not fun. These things are heavy and can hurt you. Also, as stated, the engine needs to be supported. The engine and transmission assembly are held in with three contact points, two motor mounts and the transmission mount. When you loosen the transmission you remove the rear mounting of the engine, so you don't want to let it hang. A board to distribute the weight on the oil pan will do fine.

I know I'm not offering anything new here, but just wanted to reinforce the good advice given above. Work smart and good luck!
Thank you, That makes sense, so motor can move just don't let it hang too far. So much great advice already can't thank you all enough. Coffee is done omw down to get this thing out and find where it is leaking from.
 
Can't take credit for this advice. Take 2 bolts 3 or 4 inches long (3/8" I believe) cut the hex head off. Cut or grind with a cut off wheel slots to fit a screwdriver. Put those in the 2 slotted bolts bottom holes of bellnousing to help guide trans in, remove with screwdriver after almost tightening upper bolts.
 
Can't take credit for this advice. Take 2 bolts 3 or 4 inches long (3/8" I believe) cut the hex head off. Cut or grind with a cut off wheel slots to fit a screwdriver. Put those in the 2 slotted bolts bottom holes of bellnousing to help guide trans in, remove with screwdriver after almost tightening upper bolts.
I have never tried that. But makes sence.
 
Hi Guys, I got the trans out with the help of your good advice, I think i learned a few new cuss words during the process Hate to bother again but if anyone could take a look at this pic and let me know if it is an original vin or does it look like it has been tampered with, some of the small numbers at the bottom have been punched over not sure if this happens in these years?

image2.jpeg
 
Hi Guys, I got the trans out with the help of your good advice, I think i learned a few new cuss words during the process Hate to bother again but if anyone could take a look at this pic and let me know if it is an original vin or does it look like it has been tampered with, some of the small numbers at the bottom have been punched over not sure if this happens in these years?

View attachment 755742
Maybe that's a stamp from a rebuild? The number should match the last numbers of your VIN tag on the dash of your car. I like Fran Blacker's idea about the bolts, but I just use 2-3 different length bolts during installation. You're just holding the weight of the transmission while you shove it forward (so you can get under/around it where the jack was holding it up). It can take quite a bit of wiggling/shoving/cursing to get it back in. TAKE YOUR TIME with the clutch disc alignment tool & it will make installation easier.
 
Can't take credit for this advice. Take 2 bolts 3 or 4 inches long (3/8" I believe) cut the hex head off. Cut or grind with a cut off wheel slots to fit a screwdriver. Put those in the 2 slotted bolts bottom holes of bellnousing to help guide trans in, remove with screwdriver after almost tightening upper bolts.
Thanks Fran, great idea. Getting it out was a little more difficult than i thought it would be and I am already stressing about how it will go back in. This idea should help out as the little thing is a lot heavier then it looked lol
 
Maybe that's a stamp from a rebuild? The number should match the last numbers of your VIN tag on the dash of your car. I like Fran Blacker's idea about the bolts, but I just use 2-3 different length bolts during installation. You're just holding the weight of the transmission while you shove it forward (so you can get under/around it where the jack was holding it up). It can take quite a bit of wiggling/shoving/cursing to get it back in. TAKE YOUR TIME with the clutch disc alignment tool & it will make installation easier.
Thanks PurpleBeeper, I purchased this car and drove it last summer. it was fully restored or redone i guess about 9 years ago and i was told trans was rebuilt so this would seem logical, If they rebuild them they re stamp if they change stuff inside like gear ratio ? I have so much to learn, i was hoping this would remain turn key for a few years before i got into all this. but thanks for all the information.
 
Maybe that's a stamp from a rebuild? The number should match the last numbers of your VIN tag on the dash of your car. I like Fran Blacker's idea about the bolts, but I just use 2-3 different length bolts during installation. You're just holding the weight of the transmission while you shove it forward (so you can get under/around it where the jack was holding it up). It can take quite a bit of wiggling/shoving/cursing to get it back in. TAKE YOUR TIME with the clutch disc alignment tool & it will make installation easier.
Not my idea but like to pass things on. When its my idea I'll crow, maybe shouldn't say that.
 
welcome to FBBO
 
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