Rust conversion opinions, or encapsulation??

This isn't necessarily a Mopar related question, but it certainly applies to frame and rear end, suspension work, etc., where you aren't trying for a concourse restoration. So what's everyone's favorite way to deal with rust on heavy (not body panel) metal areas where rust may be starting, but not easy to sand or blast away?? Is an encapsulation product good enough, such as POR-15 or just Rust-O-Leum for decent longevity on frames and suspension?? Or do most of you prefer a conversion product first to stop rust growth?? Anyone used Rustmort, and know where to get it?? And if so, do you simply paint over the conversion, or is there a process to follow for best, longest lasting results?? TIA, Lefty71

I've used Chassis Saver (same as POR15, but cheaper) with good results.

I've used the POR-15 products since I first found out about them. I do try to remove as much rust as possible by sanding or scraping the areas first. It has worked well for me I have never had rust reappear in treated areas.

If I can't access an area properly I still try to get as much surface rust off as I can, then spray or brush a mixture of Ankor Wax and Penetrol to encapsulate it. There was article in a UK Classic Car magazine some time ago and they tested a load of different products and this mixture came out the best. I'm not sure if both products are readily available in the US. The Ankor Wax is used a lot by the VW Kombi Owners, it can be used on the sheetmetal too to preserve a rusty patina that's the current trend. The whole underside of my Plymouth and inside all the panels is now sprayed liberally with the stuff. I'd be hesitant about painting anything over it - I'd rather still be able to see it (you can see the areas sprayed as they look like waxed rust, which they essentially are) and monitor it annually. I'm always jealous of the guys who have the skills/$$ to do a complete rotisserie job on the body, but if all you want is a reliable cruiser then encapsulation is fine I reckon.

I will use a encapsulator on certain things (prefer epoxy prime) but will remove the rust as much as possible first
and then will hit it with ospho or a phosphoric acid product next to treat the rust
rust mort is similar like those products and I have also used it in the past
I still have stuff I did in the 80's with rust mort that is holding up just fine with a etch primer/paint over it.
but the car might of been out in the rain a hand full of times at best since I did the work back in the mid 80's

flypaper said:

I will use a encapsulator on certain things (prefer epoxy prime) but will remove the rust as much as possible first
and then will hit it with ospho or a phosphoric acid product next to treat the rust
rust mort is similar like those products and I have also used it in the past
I still have stuff I did in the 80's with rust mort that is holding up just fine with a etch primer/paint over it.
but the car might of been out in the rain a hand full of times at best since I did the work back in the mid 80's

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eastwood makes a good encapsulator as well i have used for a while.

I use por-15 on areas i can get to easy,like floors,frames ect and Eastwood rust encapsulator on overhead stuff ,hard to reach areas and areas with light surface rust after sanding / wire wheeling. Also like Eastwood's spray that they make for inside of frames.

Eastwood has their new(ish) Rust Encapsulator Platinum that claims to work on rust as well as bare metal. Doesn't seem to come in spray cans, though. I'm going to give it a try on at least the rusty spots of the inner doors and quarters and see how it goes, then probably some epoxy primer.

Funknut, I just recently used the Platinum stuff on the inside of my frame before I replaced the trunk pan... I first scraped and wire wheeled the rails and then 2 coats of the Platinum stuff followed by epoxy primer and then black frame paint from Eastwood, probably overkill but its the only time i'll be able to reach those areas, and yes I also did 2 coats on the inside of my door skins... Seems like a good product....

The difference between eastwood regular rust encapsulator and platinum Is: platinum has Isocyanates in it so its riskier to spray at home but way tougher when dry. I have used regular rust encapsulator and like it.

A little follow up, since I started this thread. I did end up picking up products from POR-15. I used the Metal Prep kit, then Rust Prevent Coating, then Top Coat on the dump truck. My truck is approaching four years old, yet is unused for the most part, and I have no intention of letting it look bad with age since it was such an expensive vehicle. So the issue was mainly that the dump bed undercarriage was not treated, just a light spray of black paint. The bed itself is stainless, and looks awesome. So I cleaned up all I could reach, which was a pain, but comparatively easy since I can just raise the bed for access. Three step process, finished in black, results are absolutely beautiful Chassis Black, and I'm sure I would not have ended up with such a nice job with Rustoleum topcoat. Now time will tell if I lasts, but it sure seems like it would from the results. The prime and paint were easy to use, dried fast, but not too fast, just enough time to settle out, with no brush strokes, nor runs. The only word of caution I'll give.... obviously standard rules apply for personal protection, but in addition, be very, very careful to keep the Rust Prevent Coating off your skin. It didn't cause any kind of reaction or anything, but when I finished applying it, no chance I could find anything to cut it... kero, gas, thinners, even acetone or pumice based cleaners, plumbers hand towels, not a damn thing would take the few spots and smears off my arm. I looked like a bum for a week. (understatement, I looked like a bum my whole life ).

Only weird thing, I picked up some Silver Top Coat to touch up the wheels. It was pudding. I used a bit of it with an artist brush, and it worked, and looked good, but it took way extra time to dry. I called POR-15, and they checked the last two batches samples, and said they were both thick. They sent me a replacement can and some solvent free of charge, which was nice. I haven't opened the can yet, but it doesn't shake, and I suspect that it may be the same. Anyone experience this??
Lefty71

Lets Roll said:

platinum has Isocyanates

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Isocyanates usually come with a disclaimer that you should use oxygen fed respirator because the overspray causes dane bramage over time. It can harden your brain was the message Dupont stated years ago with Imron.