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Blue loctite?

Islandkent

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Hey guys, just finished putting a clutch rebuild kit in my sure grip. Torqued it all down. Was just wondering if I should have of used blue Loctite? If so I'll just go back and undo one bolt at a time and apply. Any thoughts?
Also I'm replacing my open diff with said sure grip. Should blue Loctite be used on the ring gear bolts also?
Thanks for your times guys.
 
apply a drop or two of blue Loctite thread locker to each bolt that holds the center section and tighten in a criss-cross pattern and torque to specs


for the ring gear, they can be assembled and a drop or two of red Loctite thread locker applied to each bolt and tightened in a criss-cross pattern, then finally torqued to specs
 
My '65 Coronet came with a broken 8 3/4. Rebuilt it with new pinions & clutches. Failed again. Bolts backed out. RED LOKTITE.
 
Ma Mopar doesn't suggest chemical locking any where in the FSM that I recall. They do tell you to use new factory hardware in some assemblies and some of said hardware has factory applied locker chemical (dry style).
Personally I have never used any chemicals on Sure Grip bolts-with no issues. As clutch style SGs have left hand threads I imagine if the assembler doesn't have a beam type torque wrench the bolts may not get torqued.
Mike
 
Oh yeah Permatex Loctite, bearing retainer, anti seize, super glues and sealants is great stuff. Been using it for years. Permatex(Henkel) is a wonderful company for those types of chemicals for sure.
I seen in the FSM that no thread locker is used, but I never installed new bolts either. Plus I like how they neglected to say that the bolts holding the housing together are left handed threads. Yes yes I know the heads of the bolts have a letter "L" on each one of them but just the same. I always torque that type of stuff down. I checked the bolts with 3 separate wrenches. Two click and one beam to be sure. Funny how I have always relied on the beam type to check the click type. Get it close with the click and make sure with the beam. Showed the young fella how to use a torque wrench at a very early age when he was working around his dirt bikes. Along with the locker type chemicals. A lesson well learnt because he comes over to torque his wheels when he puts his winter tires on and off.
I have used red Loctite around the lathe and mill before but never on anything that I wanted to come apart. So I am kind of dubious about using it on anything that might need to come apart in the future. Sort of a love hate relationship.
Anyway guys I appreciate the responses and the time it took to help me out. I guess I'll be taking the diff apart again and apply the blue. A little help is better than none. I'm not too keen on applying any kind of heat to gears and the likes. I know they heat up when in use but it's one thing to heat a nut up to break the seal but it takes more heat to heat up a housing where the threaded hole is.
I'm going to check out them vids. See if they make me change my mind on the red.

Again thanks!
 
Last edited:
Hey guys, just finished putting a clutch rebuild kit in my sure grip. Torqued it all down. Was just wondering if I should have of used blue Loctite? If so I'll just go back and undo one bolt at a time and apply. Any thoughts?
Also I'm replacing my open diff with said sure grip. Should blue Loctite be used on the ring gear bolts also?
Thanks for your times guys.

I use red on both.
 
Both blue & red come apart easy enough when wanted in my opinion. Back in the day I started using green Loctite ("replaces welding and brazing") on torque converter bolts.
 
….I imagine if the assembler doesn't have a beam type torque wrench the bolts may not get torqued...
Good point!
I do know some Craftsman MicroTorque are right hand thread capable only. Some clicks are bi-directional though. Make sure you read the specs on the wrench before you buy.
 
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