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Running out of options !

steve from staten island said:
I have to wonder if something is going on with that electronic ignition. Can you put the points back in?

Why dont you offer some help, you know a lot about these cars, instead of knocking people... Typical
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In Kern's defense knowing what a twitsh is would be helpful, twitch I'm assuming? A little better explanation of what he's experiencing would be very helpful however I had no trouble understanding it.
 
Mikke H said:
Longshot what gap on plugs whit elektronik dist ?Have 040 now.
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Mikke H said:
Super Bee 440 six pack V code car .
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I had very similar problems with two different motors over the last few of years. The first one was a 440 with ported iron heads single 4bbl. Fresh rebuild, on the dyno for break in. Had a brand new mopar performance distributor and ignition. Motor seemed to idle ok but when you revved it up to 3200 it would start to break up and studder till about 3800 then start to smooth out again. Egt and afr would go all over the place. Checked all the same things that have been suggested here, plugs, wires, coil, etc. There was another motor at the shop with a msd distributor, slid that in a presto! Immediately idled better and no breaking up during the pulls. When we looked closer at the Mopar distributor the advance plate was loose and the shaft had lots of play also. Ended up making 498hp later in the day with that one.
Other motor was a BBF that started breaking up around 2800 and never really smoothed out. Was way down on power all across the band, (no ford jokes please). It already had a full msd ignition setup. Went through plugs,wires,curve,pickup,carb,lash,vac. Ended up tearing into motor and found it had excessive camshaft end play by .010. Fixed that, back on the dyno picked up 100hp. With too much play cam bounces back and forth causing spark problems. I learned long ago breaking in rebuilt motors on the dyno is money well spent, cheap insurance.
 
You may have to make sure this engine is firing the same on every cylinder. You need to start from zero and go over everything if the new pickup in the distributor doesn't do the trick.
When I eliminated my point and went with a Petronix the only problem I had
747mopar said:
In Kern's defense knowing what a twitsh is would be helpful, twitch I'm assuming? A little better explanation of what he's experiencing would be very helpful however I had no trouble understanding it.
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Dont defend him to me. Theres no excuse's. He comes on a technical discussion forum and knocks a guys spelling, he offers no help, advice on the issue. He does this on other forums other than the FBBO
Then he gets his balls twisted when I put him in his place.
He posted in some thread in the PF and mentions me and the and I quote "drama" I cause him
I use to wonder why people in these forums feel the need to criticize others for there lack of grammar, not constructively helping them mind you, just knocking them. I dont wonder anymore.
I dont have any idea what a "twitch" is as related to a automotive forum, but I know what a boring self consumed no life asshole is.
 
Excuse me please before someone comes on knocking me for my lack of computer skills. To finish up the above post, the only problem I had was I had to change the voltage regulator to a non points type, dont ask me why as I dont recall. Id also consider a compression check.
 
Check timing? A buddy kept having issues. Told him to verify timing. He did the usual. Checked everything else. Month later, took it to someone else. They checked timing. It was way off.
 
By twitsch i mean a slight missfire like biheivior no popping or backfire just a irratik slight interfierens thruout the whole rpm range like when a plugwire arks over to the headers hawe no headers thow .
 
Hawe tried jetting , adjusting idle mixture,now has a brand new set off carbs on new fuelpump new lines from tank to carb !
 
Mikke H said:
Longshot what gap on plugs whit elektronik dist ?Have 040 now.
Click to expand...
????
Look, if you want help, you need to be really clear about what you are asking. When people click on a thread and feel that they have to wade through incomplete descriptions, terrible spelling and bad overall grammar it is a huge disservice to the OP and anyone trying to help. Why would you make it difficult to help you?
If you do not use English as your first language, I do apologize.

For the record, I do help at every chance that I get. If I see a post that pertains to a situation that I have experienced, I am happy to help.

While I do not claim to be an electrical expert, I can attest to the fact that many electrical gremlins can be difficult to trace. In many cases though, it comes down to something simple that is not immediately obvious.
Poor negative ground connections are common. In the case of a Mopar Performance distributor, the reluctor air gap number is crucial. It needs to be between .008 and .010 to run right. A coil can have a bad terminal end and cause intermittent firing. An ignition system can run right at low loads but then break up and sputter at WOT. Spark plug gaps need to be at .035 for points and electronic. Plug wires can be tested using an Ohm-meter, look for low resistance.
 
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Kern Dog said:
Take a look around, Steve. Everyone knows that you are the second most emotional person here. It is common with people of a certain persuasion.
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Ive looked around and you'd be surprised at the amount of PM's I get supporting what I say especially in cases just like this. What you fail to understand is your not above average intelligence and certainly not in the mater of English.
Anybody with a Bachelors in education could show you the door as far as your grammar and sentence structure.
But thats not the point. The point is you came here and viewed this post and replied not to help but to put somebody down and if that makes me "emotional" than so be it.
Id rather be emotional than a guy with no manners, no class, and not one once of humility who tries and make people feel uneducated because they can't spell.
 
steve from staten island said:
Anybody with a Bachelors in education could show you the door as far as your grammar and sentence structure.
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Anyone with a 3rd grade education could do the same to you...But then I never went to college.

Take your meds, Steve.... whether it is an anti-psychotic or a case of light beer.
I offered help to the best of my ability.
 
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Kern Dog said:
Take your meds, Steve.... whether it is an anti-psychotic or a case of light beer.
I offered help to the best of my ability. I get cross eyed when I have trouble understanding reading something.
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LOL.. You offered to help after you realized how your comments are making you look, not a compliment BTW.
If you get cross-eyed or if incorrectly words really bother you so much, why not just skip the thread.
You put the guy down for his grammar, you weren't even nice about it either. Do you not understand this?
You know very well you would not get away with it in any other forum other than right here.
The bottom line Greg is you can talk **** about me all day long, make references in the PF but if your really a stand up guy at the least you could have done was send this man a PM asking for clarification as to exactly what issue's he is having with his car, instead of trying to humiliate him in public.
Thats you Greg and bullshit aside you should exam your conscious as to how you act towards others....
 
Mikke H said:
Hawe tried jetting , adjusting idle mixture,now has a brand new set off carbs on new fuelpump new lines from tank to carb !
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Getting back on track and my apologies for that unfortunate exchange with another member. What type of voltage regulator do you have, see that you run a pointless ignition? This is addressed in a thread in the general forum, from my understanding you should not be using the old style mechanical regulator. This could affect the distributor.
 
Mikke H said:
Bought the car 2 years a go very ruff shape started to sort it out it had a sligth tvitsch at all rpm levels under load and off load !So i started to mesure things up .It had 4 bad cylinders leaking valves the carbs baseplates were varped do to overtorqe and leaking and so on .Hawe now rebuilt the engine new pistons full head restauration the works !Hawe also installd new carbs stock setup new fuellines all the way to tank new fuelpump .Replased all ignition hardvere exept the ditributor itself .Chekt all connektions new battery full voltage att all points messured everything !New ignition box today allso bypased the ignition key part and bulhead conektor by wire from battery to resistor and the darn thing still has the the twitsh att all rpm levels !What to check next ? Running out off options here ?
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A real head scratcher. Here is what I would do and almost all have already been suggested:
1) check output of alternator.
2) clean all electrical contacts and grounds for the alternator, voltage regulator, coil, and the small ground wire on the negative cable at the battery. This small wire grounds to the radiator support.
3) swap out the coil with a known good one.
4) Replace the rotor. They're cheap. Keep the distributor cap for now.
4) recheck compression on each cylinder.
5) check both ends of each ignition wires and coil wire...check the electrodes for fit (snap/click) and visually check the wire core connection to the electrodes. Also, you could put an ohmmeter across each wire electrode and gently move/flex the wire ...watch for an open. It would probably be easier to swap out the ignition wires with a fresh set.
6) Curious, what brand of plugs are you using? Not to slam NGK, but I have had issues with NGK in the past. Fortunately, my car's diagnostic computer told me which plug/coil to check. I still use NGK and have had no recent issues.
7) Curious, what is the cam degreed at?
8) Curious, do you have a non-stock valvetrain?

Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
Did put in a new voltage regulator new wires cleand all ground points third set off plugs in tested whit NGK Champion Delco in now set at 035 .Cam set stock lokation valvetrain stock no trick or aftermarket parts did not want problems and here i am !
 
Mikke H said:
Did put in a new voltage regulator new wires cleand all ground points third set off plugs in tested whit NGK Champion Delco in now set at 035 .Cam set stock lokation valvetrain stock no trick or aftermarket parts did not want problems and here i am !
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Ok but what voltage regulator mechanical or electronic. You need the voltage regulator that does not have points
 
Kromebox on firevall regulator .
07F8ED96-E294-4186-8E32-0D007F09BCAC.jpeg
 
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