Paint on metal part of DASH

I'm actually dealing with finding the right paint myself for a steering column swap (same paint as the dash). I prefer to have the factory correct finish. Reflective glare in your face while driving is not something you'd want to contend with. You tend not to notice stuff when it's 'correct' but when it's not, it'll stick out like a sore thumb.

I took a photo for comparison. The column on the left retains the OE finish, the column jacket on the right was painted with Year One spray paint. The Y.O. paint does not claim to be a match for the texture, the color is somewhat in the ballpark I guess? Kinda sorta?

Either way, don't take the photo as a criticism of the Y.O. spray paint but more as a comparison of how different the suede factory finish is to garden-variety spray paint. Basically there really isn't anything readily available in a can that does the job.

The textured finish certainly darkens the color, like a lot. I believe the mica in it provides a red 'cast' as well but I'm not sure if that only occurs with certain colors like blues. The column on the left is also probably faded so it may not look as good as the day it left the factory.

I am doing my steering column right now, and may actually end up painting the front and lower parts of the dash frame just to clean it up.

Disclaimer: I was not trying for a factory finish, and I have no idea how close this is to 'factory.' I've never been this close to any other mopars of the era. I just did some online research and the textured black seemed to be reasonably well accepted as a good solution.

I used the following process and products for the steering column:

1) Stripped and etched the column parts
2) 2-3 coats Rustoleum professional gray primer (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Professional-15-oz-Flat-Gray-Primer-Spray-7582838/100670373)
3) 3 coats Rustoleum textured black (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...lack-Protective-Spray-Paint-7220830/100121155)
3a) I agree with the above comment to get as much light as possible on the items because it can be hard to see how well you're covering it, and with the textured paint it makes a big difference.
4) 2 coats Rustoleum satin clear enamel (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...amel-Satin-Clear-Spray-Paint-285092/205694411)

I don't have pictures handy but I'm very pleased with how it came out.

Note 1 (maybe I'm the only one that didn't expect this): The clear goes EVERYWHERE. I sprayed the primer, black and first coat of clear indoors in a cardboard enclosure I made. Worked great for containing the primer and black. When I sprayed the clear it went absolutely everywhere. 2nd coat of clear I did outside.

Note 2: There's a pretty big difference in texture between 2 coats of clear and 3. I did some test panels and the 3rd coat of clear really made the texture from the black disappear.

If you're looking for the black, that Rustoleum textured is DEAD ON. Hot tip ... prime with black primer or flat first to minimize the amount of texture you have to shoot. If you prime with red or grey primer it takes to much texture to cover and it will be coarser than original.

In the photo below, top piece is original, bottom piece shot with the Rustoleum Textured. They may look a little different in the second photo but keep in mind the top piece is 50 years old !!

I used SEM Satin Black Chip Guard, spayed a bit dry, on the last dash frame I did, with good results.

In my limited experience rattle can paint is too soft and can be scuffed with your finger nail.
Scuffed may not be the right word, but the surface could be changed with a finger nail.
I went to PPG and got some automotive paint.
Acrylic uretane in a color near to what my dash was.
So my dash wasn't black and I would test what ever you use.

onlyone said:

In my limited experience rattle can paint is too soft and can be scuffed with your finger nail.

Click to expand...

It depends on the cure time, temperature, etc.. Mine's been curing for 2 years now so its probably good and hard !!

I see a lot of folks talking about durability of rattle can paints. It is true, that additional time and heat is required to get the paints to cure, but let me tell you.....after about a week in normal summer conditions....peices I've done with proper prep, have turned out just as well as some I've paid to have done. Prep is the key.

Heat is the answer.. just ask Duplicolor themselves...

I baked mine in the Texas sun