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Optima Red Top problems

Kern Dog

Life is full of turns. Build your car to handle.
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I've had an Optima battery in my '70 Charger since around 2003. I've gone through 3 in that time. I don't drive the car that often. I thought that the Optima would be a good choice; My thinking was that they were supposed to hold a charge longer than lead-acid batteries. The most recent one was bought in June 2016. Lately it does not hold a charge. I have a Schumacher battery charger but charging one of these types of batteries isn't as easy as it is with a regular battery.
On Wednesday, it charged up to 11.7 volts then the battery charger clicked over to "Maintain" mode. A few hours later it was down to just over 9 volts. Yesterday I charged it again, it peaked at 11.75 volts so I disconnected the charging unit and tested it today. It was down to 9 volts again. I wonder why the battery charger didn't sense it was discharging and kick into CHARGE mode.
I may have to get another battery but I doubt I'd get another Optima. These things are expensive and heavy too. There are smaller and lighter batteries that may be a better way to go. I would be okay keeping this battery if it can be saved but if it is too far gone, I'm looking at a change.
 
I would just go with a good "typical" lead-acid battery, but mount it in the trunk which is a less harsh environment (e.g. heat & vibration) and is a better place for a heavy item to be located. Mount it on the right hand side of the trunk.
 
Thanks. In 2013 I did a battery relocation to the trunk with a FORD solenoid. That is the battery that I had until 2016.
Trunk battery.JPG
 
Thanks. In 2013 I did a battery relocation to the trunk with a FORD solenoid. That is the battery that I had until 2016.
View attachment 760749

I know nothing about Optima batteries, but do they have a recommended battery charging/discharging cycle? Do they sell a battery management "system" to integrate with, or replace, your car's charging system?

My last seven cars have had trunk-mounted batteries and none of batteries ever failed. Some of the batteries had eight years of use before I replaced them. I figured time was running out and the batteries owed me nothing; and so I replaced them.

As far as engine-bay batteries go, the batteries in my '79 300 lasted 5 to 6 years whether in Texas heat or benign Washington State weather. I typically used the highest CCA Die Hard battery available. The best battery I used was a high-end NAPA battery with very high CCA.

Back in the '70s I would get about 4 years of use out of a Die Hard battery in my '71 Satellite before I replaced the battery.
 
Check your Schumacher charger. If it doesn't have a AGM mode, most likely the batteries are being damaged when charging.
 
I think the opposite is true. They drain faster just sitting. More so, if a car with active electronic draws. My 70 RR has acid battery and can sit for 4 months and still be fine. In fact, I never charge it and it is over 5 years old. Even a new Optima in my modern car, has to be surface charged every 2 months if sitting. Can go dead it not. Your modern car manual for these AGM batteries tell you to disconnect it if going on vacation.

Also have had some misses with Optima, battery that die in 3 years. Others have gone 8+, though they did not have the correct upper Voltage. Some modern cars, like Corvette have some interlocks very sensitive to battery voltage. So when those codes pop, it typically is the battery at end of useful life and voltage has dropped to around 12.

You do need to charge AGM correctly, and you can bring a drained one back, but have to trick the charger into thinking the battery is not dead, hence putting a good battery in parallel with the charger. It works, I have done it.
 
I use the red tops without any issue or discharge problems. I maintain good grounds on all electrical parts. i'd use another in a heartbeat.
 
I'm done with Optima batteries, I have gone through so many over the years, their quality sucks. The final straw was when I put my yellow top on THEIR expensive charger and my battery overheated and damn near blew up. I now have two Odyssey batteries and I noticed one thing right off the bat: static voltage is 12.84 volts on both Odysseys, on the Optimas it was always 12.3. In my Plymouth, if I didn't drive for a few weeks, the Optima's voltage would drop below 12, a few weeks later with the Odyssey and it was still over 12 volts. When it did drop lower, and I drove the car for an hour, the Odyssey would bring itself right back up to 12.6 volts, whereas the Optima would drop below 12 volts the next day.
 
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I had a red top in my Dakota for 14 years but I drove it regularly.
Only problem I had was if it had to get jumped off it wouldn’t run on its own power without giving it gas. I would have to put it on slow charge when I got home. I would buy another one but I can buy three regular batteries for the price of an Optima.
 
I’ve had my Optima red top now for 10 years. It has never needed charging and in the last few years, there are times my car has sit for up to 2 months between starts. I have never used a battery tender or disconnected battery over the winter. My guess is your charger is not for agm batteries. Supposedly a regular charger will ruin an agm battery.
 
I have the Schumacher on some training devices that run from battery.
There is a switch on ours that needs to be set if wet cell or AGM.
 
Like I said hit or miss. I had several that have been great, and other fail rapidly. But I don't think you can argue about the discharge rate versus acid battery. Sure it may work great on an old car after a 2 month sit, but it can also fall off a cliff voltage wise after 2 and half. Especially if it has a constant load which I stated. Most old cars don't but some folks have resto mods with other constant drain components.
 
I agree with hit or miss. First Optima Red I bought lasted over 12 years.The next 3 were garbage one even blew up like a balloon. Thankfully we removed it before any damage to the car. The one I have now is a 2013 and is on it's way out. I too won't be replacing it with another. I have one in my camper,a 2016. I needed a dual post and it was the only thing I could find at the time.
 
I've had red top batteries go dead and brought them back to the speedshop where I bought them. They would 'recondition' them and return to me. I finally bought the charging unit that had this feature ($100)

CTEK MXS 5.0 Fully Automatic Battery Charger(Charges, Maintains and Recondition)

s-l1600.jpg
 
Only have bought one red top Optima...June 2012. Still in the car today. Typically on a battery tender when parked for extended periods. No corrosion problems anywhere! All my other vehicles with lead acid batteries have evidence of corrosion...be it battery hold down, the tray, or fender/ hood area.
 
Years ago when I was sorting out electrical issues that were draining my battery I installed a battery disconnect switch. I've had a red top Optima in my car for at least 6 years now with no problems, if the car will sit more than a week I'll disconnect.
 
This Red Top may be okay. I have been charging it and then letting it sit, then charging it again.
Following advice I'd gleaned from a few sources, I ran jumper cables to a regular lead-acid battery then put the charging unit on the lead acid battery. Today the Optima has reached 12.44 volts, the lead acid is at 12.56. With those good numbers, I disconnected all leads to the Optima and will see if it holds a charge overnight. If it does, I'll put it in the car and see if it holds a charge over time.
With this uplifting news, I decided to try to bring back my Blue Top Optima.
 
It is a bit crowded in there with all this going on.
Battery 3.jpg

The Red Top is about 3 years old, the Blue one might be 7 or 8.
Battery 2.jpg

This one is just a regular one from the NAPA store.

Battery 1.jpg
 
A brief diversion.
Your car is very nice and you seem to be a conscientious and meticulous person. So, why do you have a rusty and ratty-looking spare held down with a bent(?) bolt?
:eek:
 
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