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1968 440 with stock manifolds (cam selection help.)

Ckeely

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I am getting ready to rebuild my 68 gtx 440 ,four speed ,Dana 354 original engine. I want to retain the stock intake and exhaust manifolds. I am asking for suggestions on Cam, ( solid or hydraulic ). Lift and duration for the best power and dependability. Also interested in questions on head work and exhaust manifold work with retaining stock parts. Wanting a combination that works very well with basically a stock 68 HP 440 motor . It has new TTI 2 1/2 inch exhaust . Thanks for any help I have never done anything stock before this is new for me . I want maximum power and dependability with a stock appearance . Also ignition is converted to electronic by way of pertronics kit and high output per Tronics coil. Also I have a set of Mopar performance/crane 1.5 roller rockers .
 
I'd call Hughes for the cam. Port match the intake to the heads, and the exhaust to the heads. 2.14 & 1.81 valves with port work to unshroud the valves. Extrude hone the exhaust manifolds.
 
Andy F liked the Mopar .528 solid. Dwayne at PR heads will know.
Doug
 
pocket port and back cut the valves. use a summit 6401 cam; cast manifolds friendly. with a stock intake I wouldn't get aggressive with a cam. the intakes don't flow any air. use a good fuel pump and go have fun.
 
The first thing you need to comprehend is....... by using the stock intake and ex manifolds....... you are leaving quite a bit of power on the table.

If you’re okay with a solid cam, there will be a little extra power in using one.

The best way to “more power” from this type of build is....... more cubes.

 
Does anybody have Dyno sheets on a stock intake and exhaust manifold build.
 
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12:1 512, 280cfm 906 heads, .635 solid roller cam, stock intake, ex manifolds, 800 Ede avs....... 525hp.
With the stock intake and ex, the VE is pretty poor.
A 6bbl is worth about 60-70hp on a build like this.

Went 11.58@118 on g70-15 bias plies, 3.91 gears, 3650lbs.

Headers and a good intake, along with a cam not designed around ex manifolds would be worth an easy 100hp.

https://www.onedirt.com/news/the-secrets-of-an-11-second-f-a-s-t-racer/
 
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If you do some searching around, there are some tests on the ‘net.

Just keep in mind, results from different dynos can vary greatly.
 
Does anybody have Dino sheets on a stock intake and exhaust manifold build.

I have dyno tests on my website in the tech section: http://arengineering.com/tech/

It isn't easy to do what you're trying to do. Be prepared to run some experiments and to test several cams. You'll have a hard time finding anyone who can provide you with help on an engine combination like that. Most engine guys will tell you to use a cam that is way too big for what you're trying to do. You'll need to find someone who actually runs dyno tests with exhaust manifolds if you really want to make the most power. The alternative is to just bolt together a standard combination and let it be what it wants to be.
 
I’d start with the basic questions.....
-how much power are you trying to make?
-is it still going to be a street car that has to run on pump gas?

In order to be able to reach your goals, the answers to both of those questions should be on the same page...... with the first one actually being attainable.

For example....... thinking you’re going to make 600hp from a stock stroke 440 with the stock intake and ex manifolds on pump gas....... that’s not gonna happen.

If the goal is to be able dip into the 12’s on a killer air day with your stock stroke, stock appearing motor............. I think it would be really hard to do with 3.54’s and a std trans, with normal street tires.
You might get there with real tires though.

Making real power with both ends of the motor plugged up isn’t an easy task(or very cost effective).

If you’re just trying to put something together that looks stock, but runs quite a bit stronger than an actual stock one........ that’s not too hard to do.
 
First ,thanks for all the responses. I am trying to get the most out of a stock 440.
 
Had great results using the old 284/484 MP cam with the same combo you're running. One car was with a stick and another was with an auto. Don't have dyno results but both cars were in the low 13's which to me was impressive. The new cams are better in the same ranges as the old MP cams but like mentioned above, experimentation is good. Cam timing can sometimes surprise you too....and if anything you do that will help for the money is to do a bowl job....ie, valve pockets. Mom's valve pockets are probably the worst in the industry back then.
 
09sVLa


My stock appearing 383 build. Currently run a best of 12.10 @ 113+. 10:1 compression.

B9623A75-B3C0-4C0F-9AF9-0E6531A8E11F.jpeg
 
This might be interesting. Headers,performance intake and carb and comparing to all stock on the dyno.


 
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451, 10:1, 800 Eddy, ported intake (I did) ported heads (professional, but not Dwayne Porter good) custom solid lifter cam, 1.6 Harlan Sharps, 2.14-1.81 valves, 3000 PTC converter, 3.91 sure grip. 3520 race weight with me in.
 
That was a very good video thanks. I will look up Nicks Garage.
 
My stock appearing 383 build. Currently run a best of 12.10 @ 113+. 10:1 compression.
451, 10:1, 800 Eddy, ported intake (I did) ported heads (professional, but not Dwayne Porter good) custom solid lifter cam, 1.6 Harlan Sharps, 2.14-1.81 valves, 3000 PTC converter, 3.91 sure grip. 3520 race weight with me in.

That’s a good running combo right there.:thumbsup:

Not to mention getting those times with 14” bias ply tires.
 
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What size exhaust? I have about the same combo but with a jetted quick fuel 735 cfm running Tri y headers and 2.5” exhaust and went 12.80 on a hot 90 degree night. My car weight is 3750.

451, 10:1, 800 Eddy, ported intake (I did) ported heads (professional, but not Dwayne Porter good) custom solid lifter cam, 1.6 Harlan Sharps, 2.14-1.81 valves, 3000 PTC converter, 3.91 sure grip. 3520 race weight with me in.
 
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