B body bulkhead wire connector

Geri · May 4, 2019

and I guess all Mopars with the bulkhead wire connector high and alongside the brake master cylinder. I am thinking or relocating that lower and to the left to keep it off the front/ top of the firewall, anyone ever do this? a clean firewall makes a car look great and of course not on a restoration.thoughts? notions? fuhgitaboutit? asking for a friend~~ : )

halojumper · May 4, 2019

Would moving down lower affect the overall length of the dash wiring harness? It may, or may not do not know for sure. I suppose the engineers had a reason to put it there.

bearman · May 4, 2019

geri, i agree that a clean firewall looks great and for the most part the bulkhead connector is the weak link in the harness. so if you if you want to move it and build your own type go for it. for me i'm doing it my way and yes alot of work but the end results will be great.

gkent · May 4, 2019

Do it right ... install an after market wire kit and use a round bulkhead connector installed in the wheelwell area of the firewall. Then most of the front end wiring can be run outside the engine compartment making it even neater !! The only wires that need to come out in the original vicinity are the wiper motor wiring. Also, if you run lights, etc off relays you can use lighter gauge wires to operate the relays.

Geri · May 5, 2019

halojumper said:
Would moving down lower affect the overall length of the dash wiring harness? It may, or may not do not know for sure. I suppose the engineers had a reason to put it there.

I've checked the reach of the dash side harness- it easily reaches to the area under consideration (didn't that sound profound) : ) that isnt the problem actually no problem, just wondering, the engine side wiring is not an issue -easily remade Harness that would be hidden -hopefully from the overall picture. nothing like a bunch of dangling wires around the engine to say- I don't know what I'm doing- but it works. I'd like to see good picture of clean engine area wire harness out of sight to give me idea's how its been done. ready to be schooled on this. thanks any who respond.

Geri · May 5, 2019

Stanton said:
Do it right ... install an after market wire kit and use a round bulkhead connector installed in the wheel well area of the firewall. Then most of the front end wiring can be run outside the engine compartment making it even neater !! The only wires that need to come out in the original vicinity are the wiper motor wiring. Also, if you run lights, etc off relays you can use lighter gauge wires to operate the relays.

do it right? are you saying I cant use 100 or so wire connectors and multi colored wires going every which way and make it run?? : ) never really thought about a ready made harness(wiper motor in the '64 is under the dash.) - cool idea I'm sure painless wiring has one ready to go.thanks

Geri · May 5, 2019

bearman said:
geri, i agree that a clean firewall looks great and for the most part the bulkhead connector is the weak link in the harness. so if you if you want to move it and build your own type go for it. for me i'm doing it my way and yes alot of work but the end results will be great.

agreed- you are welcome to do mine when your done with yours : )

gkent · May 5, 2019

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PT-22

There are also a bunch of different one's on American Autowire's website. You could basically put smaller bulkhead connectors wherever they're needed instead of a single large one - i.e. one in the right fenderwell feeding the ignition system, one in the left feeding lights and electric fans, etc.

Geri · May 5, 2019

Stanton said:
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PT-22

There are also a bunch of different one's on American Autowire's website. You could basically put smaller bulkhead connectors wherever they're needed instead of a single large one - i.e. one in the right fenderwell feeding the ignition system, one in the left feeding lights and electric fans, etc.

I like that .thanks

bearman · May 5, 2019

sure i'll be right over, i agree with everyone plenty of places to get all different types of connectors and wiring stuff. the big thing is to place the items where you want them and wire up to them. have diagrams and a power probe to help out. look at centerline build did a great job on his 64.

Geri · May 5, 2019

bearman said:
sure i'll be right over, i agree with everyone plenty of places to get all different types of connectors and wiring stuff. the big thing is to place the items where you want them and wire up to them. have diagrams and a power probe to help out. look at centerline build did a great job on his 64.

I have the complete electric circuitry in my Books. Having said that I'd rather rewire an entire car than try to repair a bad wiring job. I've kinda settled on the area to the left of the steering column and low, there is no exhaust to heat or hurt it- famous last words. I'll be OK, just do a little a day.

gkent · May 5, 2019

That's a lot of wiring staying in the engine compartment that doesn't need to be there.

Geri · May 5, 2019

Stanton said:
That's a lot of wiring staying in the engine compartment that doesn't need to be there.

very true. I'll really try to keep it sanitary as possible,

Geri · May 7, 2019

Stanton said:
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PT-22

There are also a bunch of different one's on American Autowire's website. You could basically put smaller bulkhead connectors wherever they're needed instead of a single large one - i.e. one in the right fenderwell feeding the ignition system, one in the left feeding lights and electric fans, etc.

beings I removed the entire heater and controls I did figure on running the ignition and alternator behind the firewall to the right side. no rush, I'll muddle along. firewall- my welding because of vision is suspect wondering if I bolt it in with allan button heads would look stupid or? BTW-I really appreciate the idea's and suggestions offered here- I guess I can hire someone to do the welding, would it need to be welded in 100% around or many spot welds? as always your opinions matter. I tried to do a little bead work on the firewall BUT I have only a hand crank beader (harbor freight) on a wiggle ready stand , I am not thrilled with the result but its the only piece of sheet metal I had to do the job.

gkent · May 7, 2019

If you're cutting it out then it needs to be fully welded. Here's the section I want replaced in mine. I'll keep the heater holes and the bolt holes unless I can figure another way to hang the heater box. The wiring bulkhead hole will be filled And I'll probably make a m/c backing plate that follows the cowl line. I found a heater motor that is an inch shorter than the stock one so I can get rid of that bulge

Geri · May 7, 2019

Stanton said:
If you're cutting it out then it needs to be fully welded. Here's the section I want replaced in mine. I'll keep the heater holes and the bolt holes unless I can figure another way to hang the heater box. The wiring bulkhead hole will be filled And I'll probably make a m/c backing plate that follows the cowl line. I found a heater motor that is an inch shorter than the stock one so I can get rid of that bulge

View attachment 762268

if the '64 had been that free of rust I'd not have done anything to it- but.. I looked back at a picture I took of my '62 Dart wagon with the 426 hemi and the stock wiring was minimal and clean enough to keep as it was. don't know why all the extra wiring on the '64 -and each seems to be going somewhere important.

B body bulkhead wire connector

Geri

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halojumper

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gkent

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Geri

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Geri

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