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Jim,
I believe the flare should be a 37 1/2 degree double flare instead of the standard 45 degree flare angle. The material for the tube should be steel tubing or stainless tubing either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. Tubing is measured by O.D. x wall thickness. NEVER USE COPPER TUBING. IT IS USUALLY SUPPLIED DEAD SOFT AND IS SUBJECT FAILING DUE TO VIBRATION AND IS EASY TO SPLIT DUE TO OVER-TIGHTENING.
When double flaring be sure to use the correct upset button to form the first flare and then use the cone part of the tool to form the double flare,
You mentioned that you tried to re-flare the connection. Did you allow additional material to complete the flare? Did you inspect the completed flare at the fold?. It's easy to overtighten the coneing stage which generally results in thinning and usually a leak.
It's my opinion to NEVER USE A SEALING COMPOUND ON THE FLARE NUT THREADS OR FLARE SEAT. I'm sure others will disagree and use their own methods.
Bob Renton
I believe the flare should be a 37 1/2 degree double flare instead of the standard 45 degree flare angle. The material for the tube should be steel tubing or stainless tubing either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. Tubing is measured by O.D. x wall thickness. NEVER USE COPPER TUBING. IT IS USUALLY SUPPLIED DEAD SOFT AND IS SUBJECT FAILING DUE TO VIBRATION AND IS EASY TO SPLIT DUE TO OVER-TIGHTENING.
When double flaring be sure to use the correct upset button to form the first flare and then use the cone part of the tool to form the double flare,
You mentioned that you tried to re-flare the connection. Did you allow additional material to complete the flare? Did you inspect the completed flare at the fold?. It's easy to overtighten the coneing stage which generally results in thinning and usually a leak.
It's my opinion to NEVER USE A SEALING COMPOUND ON THE FLARE NUT THREADS OR FLARE SEAT. I'm sure others will disagree and use their own methods.
Bob Renton
