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Carter Help

Andew Sury

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Ok, been tuning Eddys for years. Never had to deal with two of them.

Setup is simple. **** stock 426 with dead nuts 175 pounds of compression. New plugs, gapped at .045. Pertonix electronic conversion. New wires, second Standard cap and rotor. Timing is 14/36 all in at 3200. Adjusted valves, valve springs are around 185 seat pressure.

Its a pig. Haven't fired up my Sun 4 gas in years but plugs look about as good as it gets.

Not making much power. It has a 3.23 gears and skinny repop Redlines. Refuses to turn the tires from a punch.

Any clue how to play with the Carters? Kinda different than the Eddys. It feels lean if I had to desribe how it feels. No pinging, starts first turn of the key. Idles fine. No real hesitation, just not alot of balls.
 
Today's fuels are a lot different then what these car were designed for.
I finally got my Max Wedge running good with the original 1964, 750 Carters, after a lot of combination changes.
Because of today's fuels being so light(specific gravity) I needed to lean the primary jets from .104s to .101s and increase the rods from .066/.053 to .072/.047
Think of it this way, the old leaded fuels are like sucking a milk shake through a straw. The new ethanol blended fuels are like sucking milk through a straw. It's way easier to pull the fuel through the jets with today's gas.
Also timing events are altogether different now. Pretty much backwards to what they used to be.
I now run 24* base timing and 12* mechanical advance all in at 3000rpm, .032 plug gap with a MSD ignition and a blaster2 coil.
It doesn't buck the starter when hot and fires right up.
Hope this helps.
 
The Edelbrock carbs are slightly updated in the fuel circuitry and run richer than OE Carters.
 
I guess I would have to figure that out too if my Hemi cars were driven more. They only see about 100-300 miles a year. Moobster is right, today's fuel. My remedy for that is the local airport. I buy their 100 octane low lead, add 4oz Marvell Mystery Oil for every 5 gallons and 1/2 the recommended load additive for every 5 gallons as it already has some lead. The Hemi's and all the big blocks come alive with this and are tuned as they were when new. They can burn the tires off as intended.
Only complaint I ever had was when I sold my 68 Hemi RR to a person across the country. It left here with about 5-6 gallons of the above mixture. When it arrived he filled it up with 91 octane and went out to play. Called me and complained about the detonation and lack of power. I just told him he would have to tune it to run on the **** he put in it. It was a mid 12 second car when it left my hands providing it had decent tires on it.
 
Any clue how to play with the Carters?
Guessing the Carters are used? First thing I'd do, is check the jets, to see if their correct for the carb #s. Maybe someone has made changes, good or bad.
Then, go from there. What CFM?
 
Learned something else last night. If you give it the WHOOPAHH underhood, the throttle cable falls out of the pedal rod. Going to figure something out on that. I am a mechanic. I like to WHOOPAHH a lot under the hood.

The Carters are original to the car. Going to drive the snot out of it this weekend and burn out the corn piss an add fifteen gallons of leaded 100 to try again. I had that issue a few years ago with my **** stock 70 GS Stage 1. Put the $7 a gallon stuff out the steel can and it added 100 hp at the butt.

Another interesting thing. My gaddanmn fuel pump is missing. I can hear the faint humming of an electric pump with the key on. The joy of auction cars. That wont do.
 
The Carters are original to the car. Going to drive the snot out of it this weekend and burn out the corn piss an add fifteen gallons of leaded 100 to try again. I had that issue a few years ago with my **** stock 70 GS Stage 1. Put the $7 a gallon stuff out the steel can and it added 100 hp at the butt
If your Hemi car is anything like mine, getting rid of the corn won't take long at all, but will give you a few blasts thru the gears. Once you have some good stuff in it the tires are next in line. I just had both carbs rebuilt on this one and it must have added another 50 HP kick in the butt.
20181013_115605.jpg
20181012_174619.jpg
 
Who's the best are rebuilding these old carbs ? I have the original on my 1967 440 Four Speed Carb that needs rebuilding..

Thanks for any help
 
If your Hemi car is anything like mine, getting rid of the corn won't take long at all, but will give you a few blasts thru the gears. Once you have some good stuff in it the tires are next in line. I just had both carbs rebuilt on this one and it must have added another 50 HP kick in the butt. View attachment 763799 View attachment 763801

Looks like this.

56835524_10216926440587310_562196285445111808_n.jpg
 
66, 67, or 68? Hard to tell from the picture, but I wish the one in the picture I sent you had the power steering. If it's a 67, I think I know the car. If it's the one I'm thinking about, I know it's capable of burning the tires off, because I have seen it do just that at the strip in Columbus, Ohio at the Mopar Nationals. The color is telling me something. Beautiful engine bay!!
 
66, 67, or 68? Hard to tell from the picture, but I wish the one in the picture I sent you had the power steering. If it's a 67, I think I know the car. If it's the one I'm thinking about, I know it's capable of burning the tires off, because I have seen it do just that at the strip in Columbus, Ohio at the Mopar Nationals. The color is telling me something. Beautiful engine bay!!

I picked this pile up at Barrett last month.

57606627_10216976193151093_2011726620900982784_n.jpg
 
Who's the best are rebuilding these old carbs ? I have the original on my 1967 440 Four Speed Carb that needs rebuilding..

Thanks for any help
Scott is excellent, but I have never had him do my work. It's all hearsay, but I do know that he runs them on a test engine and they are adjusted so all you have to do is bolt them back on.
I used a guy a town about 30 miles from me that has done them since they were new. He is retired but still does a few jobs for a little extra money from time to time. I took him the car and left it for a week and am 100% satisfied with the work.

I used Scott Harm for my Carter #4426 rebuild. I liked the end product very much.

Dan
 
Super Nice and definitely not a pile.
 
Is your choke pulling off fully after warm-up?
 
Well, my hard headedness payed off. After pulling off plug wires one by one number 1 and 8 were maybe 25 rpm drop. Figured something bigger was up.

Pulled the valve covers again to measure actual valve lift thing=king maybe wiped cam..They were all right around .370"

Popped the intake off and found 1 and 8 intake gasket looking like this. And it has a repaired block. See number one intake pushrod guide.

62402656_10217330520889065_6077551738007584768_n.jpg
 
Gentlemen,
As l mentioned in a previous post re carbs and jetting, with today's ethanol blended fuels, ethanol has HALF of the heating value or energy as gasoline provides so based on the percentage of ethanol in the fuel, the carb MAY require significant jetting (richer) in both the jets and metering rods in both the primary and secondary circuits of both the main (rear carb) and the secondary (front carb). The original Carter carbs used three (3) step primary metering rods with the 3 step up pistons. EDLEBROCK (aka "eddys") use only two step metering rods, which will affect fuel metering. An important point to remember is: you must calculate the effective area of the metering rod & jet relationship. You must compare The AREA not just diameters of the jet and rod. AREA varies as the square of the diameter or Area = 3.14159 x R squared of both the jet and rod and subtracted to get the actual orifice area presented.
My Holly's on my 6 barrel GTX required much tuning to get them operating to my satisfaction, especially the end carbs which l converted to removable jets, from metering plates. I also stager jetted (left snd right) to get the plug readings reasonably close together in color. I prefer to do my own tuning vs an outside source.
Bob Renton
 
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