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Rebuilt steering gear, help!

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General23cmp

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I received my steering box back yesterday and put it in today. I sent it to be rebuilt because it leaked very badly. Otherwise, it was ok. The company (one of the popular ones) that rebuilt it is closed today, so I cannot call, and I’d like to get it running this weekend. The feel is great and tighter than expected (nicely done).

Here is the problem: start the car and the wheels quickly go hard left. I bled the system well, I think, and all fluid is new. Is there anything I could have done wrong? Seems straightforward enough.

I’d rather not say the company’s name as I want to give them opportunity to help. I’m not trying to bring them out here, I just want to get it running right. Plus, I may be at fault somehow. Maybe there is something simple you or they can tell me to do that solves this. It seems like a new box otherwise. I’d hate to have to pull it all over again, or worse, ship it out again after pulling again.
 
You just have to loosen the bolts and center the valve body. Not unusual.
 
Thanks all. Yes, the search bar is my friend, too. I’ll wait to talk with the builder as I don’t want to void a warranty.
 
General23cmp said:
I’ll wait to talk with the builder as I don’t want to void a warranty.
Click to expand...
Adjusting that valve body is quite normal, and something the rebuilder has nothing to do with. Must be done, once the gear box is in the car.
On mine, I went into the box, but only to replace seals and o-rings. Under that valve body is an o-ring, so know that. Usually, the builder would 'center' the valve body, but still needs final adjustment.

Easiest if weight on the front wheels is off the ground. Let the engine idle, and loosen the two bolts, only enough to be able to tap the body, one way, or other. While the engine idles (and steering system is working), tap the body until the steering wheel does NOT move on it's own. Centering the valve body simply moves into position the internal valve, relieving pressure either way. Done, and torque those bolts.
If those bolts were loose, you can tell, there's play on the valve, to set it. Careful, since the o-ring is also being moved around, too.
 
Hopefully you flushed the system thoroughly. The centering valve is very finicky to debris.
 
Ok. I talked with the company that did the rebuild, and they were surprised that it wasn't set correctly out of the box. Who knows on the shipping trip it took if it was bumped just slightly, plus those bolts aren't torqued very high per the manual. I was as careful as possible during the install, but who knows. From what I've read, it doesn't take much adjustment at all to affect it. So the company did suggest the procedure of loosening the valve bolts and bumping slightly forward or back with the plastic hammer. The one area where they differed from the manual, was that he suggested disconnecting the gear from the steering linkages when doing the adjustment (pitman arm). This sounds similar to getting the wheels off the ground like many say to do (less friction), and I even mentioned that to him, but he discouraged that as he said the slight friction differences of the linkages can affect the setting. Removing the connection at the box to the steering linkages (taking the tires out of the equation) makes it 100% about the box when you are tapping the valve. I guess that makes sense. It's probably overkill for me, but I'll likely do it that way.

I won't be able to work on it until this weekend, but didn't expect to be under it disconnecting a linkage/pitman.
 
Well you certainly could try doing it without removing the linkage, test drive and decide if you want to dive further in.
Sounds like overkill to me.

I messed one up with debris and it would decide to go full right or left without warning under slight steering movement.
WOW was that scary!! and extremely dangerous!!
 
A while back, read a post by a member...told about reaching his arm 'through' the steering wheel, to reach the key, for first engine start. Said the steering wheel whipped around, dang near broke his arm!

Should be something in the service manual, on adjusting the valve, too.
 
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet or not, but when you do the adjustment, loosen the bolts very very little. If you loosen them even one thread too much, when you tap the valve around it will tear the rubber o-ring underneath it and you will I have a big puddle of fluid underneath afterwards..
 
beanhead said:
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet or not, but when you do the adjustment, loosen the bolts very very little. If you loosen them even one thread too much, when you tap the valve around it will tear the rubber o-ring underneath it and you will I have a big puddle of fluid underneath afterwards..
Click to expand...

Yeah, they should be loosened, but torqued to 7 ft-lb before tapping for that reason. Then you torque to 16 ft-lb when it's set the way you want it. Double check steering after final toque to make sure it didn't move.
 
There is a factory training video on You Tube on power steering adjustments.
Straight from the company that designed and built the steering box. Can do no better.
 
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