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Factory oil pressure gauge

69SKCharger

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I had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in my 383 charger and decided to go back to stock. I bought a new sender and the gauge in the dash tested okay, but when all reconnected, the highest pressure it reads is 20lbs. My aftermarket gauge shows normal pressure readings. Anyone experience this before? Could it just be a faulty or the wrong sending unit?
 
Ground is good? And sometimes the connector at the sender needs a couple of off and on strokes to make it connect well....or is it a nut holding it on. Been awhild. I know that sounds goofy but had one do that to me once....
 
I had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in my 383 charger and decided to go back to stock. I bought a new sender and the gauge in the dash tested okay, but when all reconnected, the highest pressure it reads is 20lbs. My aftermarket gauge shows normal pressure readings. Anyone experience this before? Could it just be a faulty or the wrong sending unit?
I’ve got the same issue. On the other side of the sending unit I have a direct line oil pressure gauge. That reads 45 where the electric unit reads 20.
 
I have the sender for a gauge, not the one for a light. I'll have to wiggle the connector around a bit and see if that helps, but everything looks clean and should make good contact.
 
Does the one for the light work with a gauge but is not accurate?

Well we have two posters who have the exact problem. I know from past experience that they always ask which one you have when ordering. I would expect the resistance would be different between the two.
 
I definitely have the bell type sender. I'll take the sealer off. It came with some on the threads.
 
I threw my first one away and pressure tested my second one to insure it had the correct ohm range before I installed it.

The higher the pressure the lower the resistance. I forget the true numbers, but here's 75psi =19 ohms. As you lower the pressure the ohm reading should rise.
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My 68 Charger is the same way.....aftermarket gauge says 25-30 at idle and 45-50 at cruise. The factory gauge says 25ish all the time. It is the right sender for the gauge type and it doesn't bother me. I just like the fact that it works and moves. I just use the old autometer gauge for accuracy. 7K worth of parts in the stroker, I have trust issues.....Haha.
:thumbsup:
 
I have the same problem in 2 of my dodges. Pulled everything apart, cleaned all connections, tested the gauges and tried different senders and nothing changed on either of mine
 
Could it be that the crap off shore sender's just don't read right?....naaa can't be, Rock Auto only sells the finest parts:rolleyes:
 
Take the wire off the sender and put a 10 ohm resistor between the sender wire and a good ground, your gauge should read right at max pressure / 80psi (like Full on the fuel gauge). If it doesn't you have a sender wire with added resistance from corrosion or such.... or a gauge issue. If it does read "full" then you indeed have a crap sending unit.

My sender / gauge reads exactly what a mechanical gauge reads.
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haha gas gauge. none of my dodges gas gauges are anywhere close to accurate. 2 of them have nos sending units (1 of which cost $395) the gauges have been tested in all 3 vehicles, and even replaced the dash harness in 1 of them the others i have literally glass beaded every connection. i have new old stock gauges that i bought for one of them but i doubt puting them in will do anything. ive come to the conclusion that you see so many aftermarket 3 panel gauge sets in dodges because the gauges just suck even 40 years ago
 
You clearly missed my point... the "like Full on the gas gauge" was in reference to where the oil pressure gauge should sit with a 10 ohm resistor between ground and the sender wire.. nothing else. Same deal for engine temp, oil pressure and gas gauge. 10 ohm resistor should show full 250*F, 80 PSI and Full.
 
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