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Opinions on front suspension upgrades I know u got em

Moparfiend

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Ok so as I get the old girl sorted out drive train wise I am finding the fron suspension is well down right scarry. I know my torsion bars are set to maximum so I need to get the front end off them and onto the new shocks I put on. But beyond this it looks like the original parts. Sooooo I see complete frond end rebuild kits also was thinking front sway bar. New control arms would be nice but thats a lot of work for me right now. Are the worth having them put in by someone? Other than Moog parts and Hodchkis Adco is there a particular set up that you guys like?
Thanks MF
 
Call James @PST they have a Super Kit that will do a complete rebuild. You can also get new torsion bars from them as well.
Let them know you're a member here and you'll get a 20% discount.
 
Call James @PST they have a Super Kit that will do a complete rebuild. You can also get new torsion bars from them as well.
Let them know you're a member here and you'll get a 20% discount.
Do torsion bars loose strength over time? I would think they were made of a spring steel.
 
What Mike67 said.
I run a PST polyurethane kit along with big block torsion bars and Hellwig front and rear sway bars. Big difference in turns and handling. C-body tie rod sleeves are a nice upgrade too. You can also box the lower control arms (mancini) if you have a welder.
They also sell weld in frame connectors that I did myself and I am a novice with a mig. Sorry if I got carried away. Do what you can afford and end result you want.
 
I went with slightly bigger torsion bars and PST's polygraphite full kit, huge difference in the way the car handles (in a good way!). I rebuilt the front end back in probably '03, and the car sat for many years, so unfortunately I can't remember what size bars I installed..
 
I just did a front end rebuild recently. Buy PST components. Don't bother to reuse the UCA's. Just buy new ones. Replacing UCA ball joints aint easy to do and needs special tool and lots of effort. You can buy a new UCA's with ball joints and bushings already installed. You will need a very large vise or press to replace bushings on lower arms if doing a rebuild. Basically if it's rubber replace it. New torsion bars and shocks are a must. A good alignment and you will be amazed how good it feels.
 
Tubular UCA’s from PST on mine, Bilsteins, and a Firm Feel Box. Drives nice.
 
Do torsion bars loose strength over time? I would think they were made of a spring steel.
Yep, but like any spring they loose their ability to dampen over time. The other thing to consider is if your car came with a LA from the factory and now houses a B or RB ...the bars were different sizes.
I bought the Super poly kit and never installed it as I came across a deal on a QA1 k member, UCA's, LCAs. Bought adjustable strut rods and billet adjusters....just another way to go..
 
Yep, but like any spring they loose their ability to dampen over time. The other thing to consider is if your car came with a LA from the factory and now houses a B or RB ...the bars were different sizes.
I bought the Super poly kit and never installed it as I came across a deal on a QA1 k member, UCA's, LCAs. Bought adjustable strut rods and billet adjusters....just another way to go..
B or RB ? I had a 318 now 1973 built 340.
 
Still chewing on the Firm Feel PS Box. But wondering how the ratio is changes if at all from stage 1-3? Can the Pitman Arm also change the ratio as well as the box?
 
Also PST makes a brand new manual quick ratio box, it's not a reman...i went with the Borgenson upgrade...
 
Also PST makes a brand new manual quick ratio box, it's not a reman...i went with the Borgenson upgrade...
Thanks so how much free play do you have with the Borgeson? Is the rest of your front end stock?
 
Well I'd love to tell you but its bolted to my QA1 k member sitting on the dolly waiting to be installed.
I have heard nothing but great things about them though.
 
If you consider FF, get informed. Happy with mine but would go stage 2 next time. 1 a little light.
 
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