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1973 RR Wiper Arm Install

73RRSunroof

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I can't seem to get the wiper arm seated enough on the splined shaft to engage the locking tab. How much force is necessary? Am I missing something?
 
It should not take much at all. Make sure the splines are clean on both the arm and the shaft, and that there are not any burrs on either. You can use just a touch of white grease to slide on the arm as well, but usually not needed. Also make sure you have the arm on straight and not at an angle, that will prevent you from seating the tabs.
 
Is the locking tab pulled out? If not it will keep the arm from going on.

IMG_1109.JPG
 
Got it, I had to put a screwdriver to pry the hinge spring a bit so it would start straight.

Where do they line up at the full down position? Are they supposed to hide under the cowl? When I hide them, they go over the cowl stainless steel trim every time they wipe and they only get about 2/3 of the driver view? I am wondering if I have the wrong wiper motor or something.
 
yes they hide down the hood ( just right over the bottom molding ) when you turn off the wipers and motor spins in oposite direction.]

Is 2 or 3 speeds ? the 3 speeds motor gets a built in parking cam system... 2 speeds gets a parking cam system attached to crank, just right between crank and main link
 
Thanks, I have a 3 speed but, there must be something wrong with the linkage because it does not go to the park position, just regular wiping. I will read the article and see what I can figure out.
 
but it returns and simply doesn't parks down the hood, or just stop wherever you turn them off ?

If the second option, it could be the switch is not energizing the reverse speed which uses to be a hot wire with wipers off, and the internal cam on motor switches it off by itself
 
It stops wherever they are when I turn them off.....so I will investigate the switch and wiring. It looks like this is not the first time this has happened, as I see some work has been done before.
 
then is the switch or the wire/line which feeds the reverse rotation to park on its position... which I think is the blue one.
 
Being on car and with ign key on, feed with 12 volts from batt ( or from ballast blue wire ) the blue wire at wiper motor to check if responses
 
Ok....I did a bench test and the high speed and low speed work, the reverse does not work on the motor. Is there a fix for this or do I just need a new motor?
 
and did you check the blue wire cavity is hot coming out from bulkhead ?

NOS rebuild kits are available around yet but they are for the mechanic parts not the electrical parts. They should be however serviceable. maybe even at home if you have the skills and tools for that and you are curious about that depending on failure... maybe something so simple like a loosen wire around
 
3-speed motor not reversing? Pull the switch plate/cover off the motor, note the location of the locating tab beforehand, clean-up the contacts on the switch plate park switch with some emery cloth. Reassemble with the locating tab as it was.
 
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I really appreciate all the help on this. I took the switch apart and it looks like the contact has disintegrated. Is that small contact ribbon supposed to have something on the end?

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While I am at it, should I just do the shaft too? It looks like the kit comes with one.

I noted the position of the clocking marker, do I need to do anything else if I remove the motor from the firewall? Do I need to mark all the moving parts of the gearbox and switch assembly?
 
That kit was originally intended to be a retrofit kit for the earlier park switch design. If installing the kit on an older motor, the shaft would need to be changed out. It appears your wiper motor already uses the newer design; it should not be necessary to replace the shaft as you would have the same shaft installed now. Nothing else should be needed to replace the switch plate, some soldering will be needed. Be sure to clock it as you found the original. The clocking adjustment allows the motor to be used on other vehicle platforms where the wiper parking position may be different than the B-body.

Should you choose to remove the motor for easier access, just remove the bell crank nut, bell crank is indexed to only go on one way. Hard to mess it up.

It also appears to me that a portion of contacts may have broken off and may still be in and around the gear housing. I would see if you can locate it, remove it.

Picture labeling for reference only, can’t verify the accuracy.
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That kit was originally intended to be a retrofit kit for the earlier park switch design.

Didn't know that! I mean, I knew the laters setup ( post 72 I think ? ) with the tower on cap for the parking switch, but didn't know it was specifically to retrofit them on earliers, just thought on a rebuild kit.

Never have disassembled some motor without the tower, so I don't know how it works the parking switch on them.... maybe similar to two speeds ? with a lever with a key installed on shaft to be engaged and push the contact switch ?

I really appreciate all the help on this. I took the switch apart and it looks like the contact has disintegrated. Is that small contact ribbon supposed to have something on the end?

Long time since I installed a kit on my motor. Just installed to get a new assembly, but not because my motor really needed it. I got an used motor when upgrading from 2 to 3 speeds and wanted to be sure everything was in order with it. Found a cheap kit and procced to install it. Still have the old one as spare
 
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