• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

How Much Should a Front Tire (floating disc brakes) spin/freewheel?

Dibbons

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:35 AM
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Messages
4,732
Reaction score
5,373
Location
La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico
I can get 3/4 to 1 full turn on one side of my factory disc brake equipped '72 Satellite Sebring Plus when giving it a quick spin by hand. On the other side, basically nothing, too much resistance somewhere in there. Thank you.
 
From the pictures I saw, it looks like the positioners and bushings were all screwed up, which could cause the problem.
 
I'm not sure if there is an exact answer. There are a few things at play that determine the amount. A worn wheel bearing and loose tolerances coupled with worn out brake pads would probably spin several times.
I knew a guy...pretty smart with cars usually...he went through 2 sets of front wheel bearings in a very short time. After the second set, I asked him...what did you torque the spindle nut to? He said some god-awful high number like 60 ft lbs or something!He was crushing the wheel bearings and creating a ton of resistance! Me? I never use a torque wrench, I spin the nut until it seats, spin the rotor, tighten a little, spin the rotor, feeling for resistance. I then push in and pull out on the rotor to get a feel for how it is seated. If it feels right, I put the tin shield on the nut, cotter pin and cap on.
A stuck caliper can stay pressed against the brake pads and cause a drag. I am not sure but in later model cars, some have sheet metal expanders that push the pads back away from the rotor to eliminate drag altogether. It looked like you have the pin type caliper, I don't know if those are available with those pad expander clips but if so, I'd use them.
 
I would love to jump in the middle of this NAFTA sandwich but will simply sit back and monitor at this point.
:popcorn:
 
How fresh is your brake setup?
Pads, calipers, rotors & hoses?

Can you tell if both calipers are releasing properly when you let off the brake?
Are both sets of pads wearing evening?
If the hoses are old perhaps one of them is collapsed internally.
Maybe one of the rotors is warped. It could be one or a combination of things.


In regards to wheel bearing KD is right. My method be it truck car or trailer is to snug the castle nut up good and the back it off one hole.
 
first, did your wheels spin freely without any calipers/pads mounted? you want to be sure the drag is not from the wheel bearings being too tight, it will cook the grease right out of them and fail. my pads have always had a bit of drag on the rotors with the tires mounted , I usually get close to a whole turn spinning and letting go of the tire before they stop. sometimes they vary side to side, but they always brake without pulling going down the road. as mentioned, there are a few other factors in play that can affect either side.
 
why don't you just download the specs, diagrams and the torque for the suspension and redone the hole thing by yourself, a Mexican suspension shop are not that bad, the thing is they don't know squat about this cars IMO.
 
For safety sake your car should be inspected and or redone by a competant mechanic. The things in the photos you showed are VERY DANGEROUS! The shop should refund your money and pay for damages/parts. It looks like junior high kids build your car.

No offense meant, just the truth.
 
Last edited:
why don't you just download the specs, diagrams and the torque for the suspension and redone the hole thing by yourself, a Mexican suspension shop are not that bad, the thing is they don't know squat about this cars IMO.
That's not just limited to Mexican ones, sadly...
 
Old saying...if you want it done right, do it yourself!

The shop that did your front end...had to pull those front wheels, and rotors. From the looks of everything, guessing they were put back on wrong, too! You'd be better off, pulling everything back off both spindles, look to make sure things are right, and mounting the parts back on...right.
 
bearing play is an art

this is one instance where using the book torque spec is not good enough

too tight and they will run hot, and fail prematurely

too loose and they will wobble, and fail prematurely

I like to get at least a full revolution or more with no perceivable slop

if it won't spin but still wobbles something is seriously wrong

I agree about checking the drag with no caliper
 
Last edited:
bearing play is an art

this is one instance where using the book torque spec is not good enough

too tight and the will run hot, and fail prematurely

too loose and they will wobble, and fail prematurely

I like to get at least a full revolution or more with no perceivable slop

if it won't spin but still wobbles something is seriously wrong

I agree about checking the drag with no caliper
Agree.
One must use "The Force" to properly tighten a front wheel bearing.
Let your feelings guide you.
Spin tighten, spin tighten, spin loosen, spin tighten, spin loosen....until it feels correct.
 
...and by "wobble" I mean the very slight shift you can feel that tells you the contact is not quite there.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top