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How many threads on a wheel stud is okay?

lochenjons

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Only was able to get 7.5 full rotations of a lug nut on the studs... The wheel is flush on the rotor. I'm used to getting more than that... If need be I can get longer studs but I'm just seeing what everyone else has come across in their experience.

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You need shank style lug nuts.
 
A general rule with a nut and bolt is that the bolt should at LEAST penetrate through the nut to sit flush. I've also read that the nut should have contact equal to the width of the bolt. 1/2" lug, 1/2" of bolt contact. KryslerKid above has it right too, seeing a few threads showing is one way of knowing that you have met the minimum amount of contact.
 
I dont like that at all. No offense, but are you SURE that wheel is against the rotor? Some of those repop magnums have been known to not clear the hub of the rotor, that would make your studs appear short.
Edit: I'd measure the hub and the center hole of the wheel with a caliper.
 
I think that wheel is for a different application.. a drum brake maybe.. is the center hole smaller that the spindle cover?
 
I’ve read 6 rotations minimum, what kind of lugs are you using, conical or shank? How long are the studs?
 
Yep , that's not going to work. like posted above you have a hub / wheel fit problem.
measure the od of the hub and the ID of wheel center.
If that's not it its a interference problem with a caliper or rotor if you have a disc set up.
 
I’ve read 6 rotations minimum, what kind of lugs are you using, conical or shank? How long are the studs?
"Rotations" is not very accurate. Late model cars often have metric threads at a wider spacing than SAE thread lugs. 6 rotations will be quite different between the metric and standard threads.
 
Lets look at it this way. Mopar studs, whether 7/16 or 1/2" are 20 threads to the inch. That is a steel center wheel, probably around 1/4" thick at the studs. If you have 1" long studs, you should have 3/4" sticking thru the wheel, 15 threads. If the studs are 1 1/4, you should have twenty. I wouldn't be happy with anyting less than the stud sticking out a little bit thru a stock lug nut. If you have that, than your pretty chrome ones will work fine.
 
General rule of thumb is 1.5 times the diameter to maintain full torque.
Wheel nuts are tightened to around 60 ft lbs.
I other words no less than 13-15 mm exposed thread for the nut to wind on to.
 
Steve, you use ft/lbs still in N.Z., not newton meters? I thought all those metric nations made fun of us for using feet and inches and miles and such? LOL.
Wouldnt 1 1/2 times 1/2"-13mm be 3/4"-19mm ?
 
You are dead right and I know what you mean, but I cannot relate to metric for some things others I can.
Sorry for the confusion but for bolt torque I revert back to imperial.
True 3/4 inch would be for full torque but on a 1/2 inch stud I am not sure anymore but full torque would be around or more than 100 ft lbs.
As a wheel stud does not go to full torque you can have less threads.
You were right what you said before if the thread does not go all the way through a standard wheel nut you have to fit longer studs.
 
The factory service manual wheel torque on the older (60's-70's) 1/2" studs, lugs is 65 ft lbs. Which is B and E-body cars. 7/16" studs on A-bodied cars with drums is 55 lbs. All threads need to be engaged to be correct. Most modern cars are torqued to 100-110 ft lbs. Torque and old lug to 100 ft lbs and you are likely to stretch the stud. Not good.
 
Rule of thumb for maximum fastener strength is 2 1/2 times the diameter for thread engagement
 
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