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Rallye Dash Cluster ground

Ethan

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I currently have my cluster out in my 70 roadrunner. I have been fighting tail lights, brake light, and blinker problems as well as water temp, oil pressure, and fuel level gauges. I have used the search feature for a couple hours where I once seen someone ground each individual gauge. Looking for that picture once again.
 
Hmm...have you checked your fuse box? I was fighting the same issues in my 68 Road Runner (no blinkers, no gauges, no wipers, etc.), but it turned out that a power wire to the fuse box was cut. Supplied power and instantly fixed everything. May not be the case for you, but worth checking.
 
gauges works with a "constant" 5 volts from limiter ( is really a pulsating signal, but allways present ) and diff level of ground ( depending on level ) sent by senders. You can ground the wires at cluster plug if you have access to it to check for working. BUT be sure the cluster itself is grounded too. A fail on cluster ground will make an unworking limiter allowing a full 12 volts feed able to burn the gauges in a second.

For gauges grounding at plug wiring:
Violet is temp
Blue is Gas
Gray is Oil
 
where did you tie into the cluster housing? not on the circuit path? but just the housing?
 
Hmm...have you checked your fuse box? I was fighting the same issues in my 68 Road Runner (no blinkers, no gauges, no wipers, etc.), but it turned out that a power wire to the fuse box was cut. Supplied power and instantly fixed everything. May not be the case for you, but worth checking.

I have blinkers, taillights, and brake lights one minute then 2 days later I won't have brake lights then they start working. The gauges really never have worked, they move periodically. When I ground out water temp and fuel they peg. I have replaced the board on the back of cluster New factory water,oil, and fuel gauge. All new sending units. 2 different Voltage Limiters from RTE. Circuit is pretty much brand new other than this whole time I am lacking ground issues
 
I added an extra wire from cluster housing to the steering column.

Where did you add a ground on the housing? Also what is the male tab on the voltage limiter for?
FDEAB6C4-3505-40F1-ADD1-94453E083CAA.jpeg
 
All gauges and other components ground on the aluminium frame of the gauge cluster.
Run a separate ground wire from the ground pin of the tachometer (most right brass bolt/nut in above picture) to the chassis and make sure it makes good contact.
If all but 1 or 2 gauges work, it does not mean you have ground issues, but more likely an issue with the particular meter(s) or their sensor...being it fuel sender or temperature sensor.
 
All gauges and other components ground on the aluminium frame of the gauge cluster.
Run a separate ground wire from the ground pin of the tachometer (most right brass bolt/nut in above picture) to the chassis and make sure it makes good contact.
If all but 1 or 2 gauges work, it does not mean you have ground issues, but more likely an issue with the particular meter(s) or their sensor...being it fuel sender or temperature sensor.

I have replaced the board on the back of cluster New factory water,oil, and fuel gauge. All new sending units. 2 different Voltage Limiters from RTE. Have a new dimmer switch that's going in before cluster goes back in
 
Where did you add a ground on the housing? Also what is the male tab on the voltage limiter for? View attachment 773505
That's a condenser (with the black wire/male connector). Not necessary when using an electronic voltage limiter, at least not in my experience.
My ground runs from the lower mounting screw from the speedometer cable outlet to the steering column mounting bracket.
 
For the tail lights it could be the grounding wires as well.
IIRC on my '69 Coronet there is a separate spade on each light to ground it.
The tail lights also should ground on the housing i believe, might be different on your car but i doubt it.
There is a tail lamp wiring harness that runs from the driver footwell to the back, behind the side panel of the footwell should be a connector, i don't know if you checked that out already?
Maybe loose, damaged/corrode wiring?
In that same harness runs a wire for the fuel sending unit signal.
 
I also added extra ground wire from instrument panel to dash frame on a 70, but my instrument panel is all original. I soldered one end of wire to the ground of the circuit board. When I have had a hood Turn signal issue, it was the excess paint preventing the light housing from grounding properly. Once I fixed that they work all the time. Same on tail lights. Marker light that was sporadic was again proper ground at the light housing assembly.

But lastly, some of these rear light issues can be traced to turn signal assembly since voltage routed through steering column. So you need to check continuity through all connectors too.
 
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This is how my tail lamp housing is grounded. I currently have alligator clips going straight to negative on battery sense it is relocated to trunk. I plan on making a permanent ground to body for both lamps this weekend.

I will definitely take a look at the harness along the footwell, maybe when I kick it just right they want to work and vise versa
 
I am putting new connections on at the bulkhead inside and under the hood along with the blocks. I got the inside done and installed auto meter oil pressure, water temp, and amp gauge. My question is can i leave the factor VOlT gauge unhooked at the bulkhead sense i got the autometer amp gauge or does that wire power something else under the dash? Trying to eliminate that fire hazard if I can.
CC3264DA-BE72-4C3A-B0B0-8F1C8F66E6DD.jpeg
 
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