• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

DC electronic tach drive distributor

33 IMP

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
3:43 PM
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Messages
11,323
Reaction score
17,618
Location
taxifornia,soon 2b Arizona.
I was thinking about hijacking the rebuild thread, but changed my mind.
I've got a direct connection tach drive distributor, 3690201, and i would like to know some more about the advance curve and centrifugal advance in it from DC. This distributor was never oem, has no vacuum adv, is cast iron, uses a dual point cap and rotor.
I should be able to plot it off of the balancer tape, but i think it is already advancing some at a 1200 rpm idle.
I have no idea where to begin to look for this info, can anybody help me out?

20190520_122945.jpg 20190326_103051.jpg 20190326_103151.jpg
 
FWIW, Here's what my aluminum body with t-drive came with...……
upload_2019-5-20_18-30-11.png
 
Wowser! If thats what ive got in mine, it's all in at idle, and has a lot more advance in it than I'd like. Thanks Dave,
John.
 
call the boys at Mancini racing they can tell all you need. the mopar engine book may also tell you as that book tells what part and the way to set it up for the way it would be used . i.e race /street
 
Wowser! If thats what ive got in mine, it's all in at idle, and has a lot more advance in it than I'd like.
Don't know on your particular distributor. All the ones I've fooled with were aluminum housing.

But, if it helps...all just distributor basics...
Suppose you already know, the housing is the ground connection, to the engine block. Electrical needs a good ground. The uh, patina your's have (rust), can break it. Look the same inside the housing? Yep, would take a little, to get rid of the rust. Ground connection is at the base, where it fits into the block.

Mechanical advance is under the points plate. Will be a pair of weights, that move via pivots, that need to be serviced (greased) now, and then. Advance weights, as on the chart Daves69 shows, is called a two-stage advance, via the advance springs. One very light, one heavy, and combined set the advance 'rate', or how fast at RPM.
Single-stage advance used the same spring, on both sides, that give a straight line advance.
There's an advance 'plate' in there, with slots for pins in each weight. The slots determine the amount, in RPMs at all in, that limits the advance amount.
So...mechanical advance...rate and amount, both that can be adjusted, to dial in the advance you want.
Best bet for your distributor, is find an advance chart for it, that will give spring combinations, for the different advances.
 
They do hit full advance pretty quick. Hey Dave where did you find that curve chart at? Been looking for them for a while. Another issue with them is the advance plate is special with the reluctor machined into it. Only way to add or subtract is grinding or welding it.
 
Hey Dave where did you find that curve chart at? Been looking for them for a while.

Hi Ray, that scan is from install instructions that came with the electronic ignition conversion kit P4286511 that I bought in the early 80's at Koller Dodge. Although the box label states it's for a "B" engine, it's actually an "RB" aluminum housing distributor that came with the "B" engine adapter package.
BTW, that curve is also in the MP Engine book P4452790.

I think P4007909 is the cast iron distributor.
 
Wowser! If thats what ive got in mine, it's all in at idle, and has a lot more advance in it than I'd like. Thanks Dave,
John.

That chart is crank advance not distributor advance, so do not think it is too much. About 9-10 at distributor.
 
Thanks Dave. Hell of a curve on them!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top