• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Debris in oil pan????

Mstone68440RR

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:43 AM
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
254
Reaction score
247
Location
Escondido, CA
E79B872E-173C-4D82-9EC5-15FF405FABD8.jpeg
AC101F67-09F1-4901-97D9-8ECF9E44F6B5.jpeg
A022DE88-4E5C-4209-9FC6-6A72033D0FB1.jpeg
i damaged my 8 quart oil pan this past weekend, upon removing it tonight I was shocked to see the following in the bottom of the pan.

I have driven the car for 5 years now, and the engine has always ran excellent, no noises. excellent oil pressure, never overheats etc.

There are 5 larger pieces of metal that appear to be a race? Then a good sized pile of hard plastic in shapes that look like it could have lined the race possibly?

Also, two small pieces of copper wire in aporox 3/8” diameter sections.

I am hoping someone with some internal engine expertise might recognize what this part may have been, and what I have to worry about?

Thanks in advance,

Mark
 
Last edited:
I don’t know what that is, but it looks like a grenade went off somewhere in your engine.
 
Your PC seals disintegrated... The white pieces are the seal material (nylon), and the small rings are from the top of the seal to stem, and the large rings are from the bottom of the seal to guide. PC seals are really meant to be used on race engines. The better seal for the street would be a metal clad Viton seal...
 
They where never built for a daily driver
As a normal they may be in an engine one season not 5 years
 
PC = Plastic Cup?? I had some of those for a recent build. I was told, throw them away. No longer a good technology. I guess you have to look at the application, but you're gonna want to work with your engine builder to solve this puzzle and decide whats best moving forward. I also read that they are bad if you use them on iron guides, because they seal too well for zero lube in a iron guide (would need to be bronze). It will be interesting to hear some stories from machinists here.
 
So, bottom line is the heads need to come off and have all of the seals replaced?

I sure don’t want any more of these seals failing and causing more issues.

I am unfamiliar with the engine build as I bought the car from someone who had previously bought the car from a larger collection after the original owner had passed away.
 
No need to pull a head, stuff a rope in the spark plug hole, bring the piston up to hold the valves, compress them, remove spring, replace seals, put springs back.. repeat x 15. Account for all the old seals and pieces as required.

beerestoration2017 032.JPG beerestoration2017 035.JPG beerestoration2017 041.JPG
 
As far back as I can remember (the day before yesterday??) PC stood for Perfect Circle as I believe they were the original sellers of the seals back in the day.

"Umbrella" seals keep most of the oil from going down the stem, but do allow oil for lubrication
"Positive" seals have 3 styles:
1) Band type is a rubber seal with metal bands for guide retention
2) Metal Clad type is a metal shell with a rubber seal molded to it
3) PC seals are a hard Teflon seal with a large and small metal band for guide retention and valve stem contact as it is a stiff material

There are different materials (poly, nitrile, polyglass, Viton, Teflon) that are used for different applications and temperature ratings. Viton is the best material for heat and longevity.

As guides wear, they will rock more and more. A rubber seal will move with the valve maintaining contact (to a point), whereas a hard Teflon seal will not, and it will leak, and quite possibly destroy itself in extreme cases.
 
Last edited:
No need to pull a head, stuff a rope in the spark plug hole, bring the piston up to hold the valves, compress them, remove spring, replace seals, put springs back.. repeat x 15. Account for all the old seals and pieces as required.

View attachment 779168 View attachment 779171 View attachment 779172

I've used the same compressor but used air pressure instead of rope. I've heard that those are hard to use on heavier hp springs.

I've seen these but you have to think about clearance issues with the engine in the car.
comp-cams-shaft-mount-valve-spring-compressors-29.png

https://www.manciniracing.com/cocashmovasp.html

I have the Viton seals on my iron 452 heads and so far so good. (Check out my Photo Garage)
 
When Mopar Engines West went through mine, there was a larger collection than that. Motor ran fine, just tired from normal wear. I wanna know how the socket got in there ;).
 
This is a fairly easy and straight forward procedure to do as described by dadsbee.
I called 6 shops near me and none of them would even consider doing it on my Charger lol, so I bought the spring compressor, stole the rope off the young fellas wagon and an hour and a half later was finished, this was my first time doing it to.
 
What trend are we in now?

Keeps a little tension up on the valves so they cant fall down and nick the pistons or themselves. Just feed a foot or so in and run the piston up near the top.
 
When Mopar Engines West went through mine, there was a larger collection than that. Motor ran fine, just tired from normal wear. I wanna know how the socket got in there ;).

Lol. I zoomed in expecting 100% for it to be a 10mm socket.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top