• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

needed- torsion bar tool

Two blocks of hardwood V'd and bolted together to clamp on, or undo the LCA lower pivot nut enough to give it some slack and give it a wack to drive it and the bar back out of the cross member.
 
Two blocks of hardwood V'd and bolted together to clamp on, or undo the LCA lower pivot nut enough to give it some slack and give it a wack to drive it and the bar back out of the cross member.
I tries loosening the pivot nut and hitting it with no luck
 
I tries loosening the pivot nut and hitting it with no luck.

Bigger hammer. Wheels off, and no weight on LCA's. Torsion bar adjusters all the way loose.
 
I made one that worked like a charm.

IMG_4110.JPG IMG_4111.JPG IMG_4112.JPG
 
A pry bar on the lower control arm works. Of course the above mentioned advice is needed also.
Mike
 
5BC2F76F-4AD1-4AA3-912E-6938C4684B12.jpeg
I have always used a larger version of a cable clamp but you will probably need to go to a company that specializes in chains and slings because of the size.
 
I loaned mine to some moron that never returned it and if you would kindly return it, I won't kick you in the nuts or anything like that.....but probably worse....the last time I used a pair of junk vise grips and piece of aluminum as soft jaws. You can shape the thin aluminum on a edge of a bench or a pipe and fold it over some more and then clamp on it with the vice grips. Worked on a car that had sat in the desert for over 30 years.
 
seriously, unless they are fairly new........ if you're going thru the trouble of taking them out (for whatever reason?) put new ones in...... they are fairly inexpensive


MKI_9566PCX1.jpg
 
seriously, unless they are fairly new........ if you're going thru the trouble of taking them out (for whatever reason?) put new ones in...... they are fairly inexpensive


View attachment 781065
I'm working on a 69 road runner that's been sitting out in the west Texas for over 30 years and had to crank up the left side bar 2 complete turns over the right side bar to make the car sit level. Maybe the rear springs are hosed too....?
 
I got the passenger side out now,but that dang drivers side !!!!!
 
A pry bar on the lower control arm works. Of course the above mentioned advice is needed also.
Mike
This right here.

Just remove the LCA pivot nut, brake strut, lower ball joint and you can just pry the LCA backwards. It will take the bar with it. Once it's out of the rear mount, the front will come apart easy. You could also leave the pivot nut on and pry the LCA off the pivot at the same time.
 
I got the passenger side out now,but that dang drivers side !!!!!
Keep at it....take a hard mallet and beat the snot out of the bars to help jar them loose then try to back them out. I got lucky on the car I'm working on as the grease was still packed in and looked pretty good for the age but I had to beat on things pretty good. My medium sized dead blow hammer helped imo after beating the snot out of them several times.
 
I have never in my life needed any special tool to remove a t bar. Ever. Loosen the lower control arm nut remove the tension bolt take the rear clip give the pivot a shot with a big hammer and it's loose. Slide out the bar. Done
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top