Lug studs spun

I had to have my hub replaced a few years ago, which included new studs. Something about the originals needed top be cut. Anyway I had to take the tire off the car and all 5 studs just spun in the hub. Finally worked it off and the shop I had do the work also installed the wrong studs to begin with and stuck a spacer behind the wheel so it would torque down. Tried the "correct" dorman part from orielly auto just to find out the spinning wore out the hub too much so I decided to try one size bigger in the knurl.
I am having a hell of a time doing any kind of machining to the hub to get the new studs to press in. Just can't get the material down to open the hole enough. I was able to get one hole close, but still can't get the knurl to press into the hub.
What is a way to work with this thing so I can get the wheel back together? The suggestion has also been brought up top get the "correct" ones that fit loose and tac weld them in place. I'd rather not, but at this point im tempted.

The lugs on my driver front are tach welded in place. I don’t like it but was in the same predicament you’re in. It’s been a couple years and no issues

I found that the knurling on some studs weren't uniform. Ended up with some tight, some were loose fitting.

Look at the top one and you can see how uneven the knurling is...


Break out the welder...

Girling english disc brakes, with the required 3" studs on the front. Studs were close, but not close enough, so tack welded. No further problems.

Just went through that two weeks ago. Put a small tack weld on the wheel studs.

If you look at Rock Auto, they give the knurling sizes for the various lug studs....and there is quite a difference in sizing. I bought new studs for my truck, and they were a perfect interference fit.

Could always fetch a new hub??

I have 3 inch ARP studs all the way around the car and they are tack welded.

I had the same problem on one or two studs. I was going to tack weld, but decided to try Permatex (red) thread locker. So far, so good, but if it fails the welder comes out.

jcskokos said:

I had to have my hub replaced a few years ago, which included new studs. Something about the originals needed top be cut. Anyway I had to take the tire off the car and all 5 studs just spun in the hub. Finally worked it off and the shop I had do the work also installed the wrong studs to begin with and stuck a spacer behind the wheel so it would torque down. Tried the "correct" dorman part from orielly auto just to find out the spinning wore out the hub too much so I decided to try one size bigger in the knurl.
I am having a hell of a time doing any kind of machining to the hub to get the new studs to press in. Just can't get the material down to open the hole enough. I was able to get one hole close, but still can't get the knurl to press into the hub.
What is a way to work with this thing so I can get the wheel back together? The suggestion has also been brought up top get the "correct" ones that fit loose and tac weld them in place. I'd rather not, but at this point im tempted.

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I know this is an ancient post. I had to replace a stud on the front disc brake rotor. They are 11.75 drilled, and slotted rotors (1978 Chrysler Cordoba) there are two different part numbers for the lug studs. One for front, and one for the rear. Long story short the rears will not work on the front. The diameter for the rear is slightly larger, and will not work on the front. Btw, the car is a '67 Belvedere with front disc conversion. I finally figured out the difference......duh.

John E Johnson said:

I know this is an ancient post....

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Yeah, I just noticed I never updated the post either. I ended up getting the ones that had a slightly smaller diameter and welded them in place. So far holding together great. I tried all 3 sizes that showed up on the Napa guy's computer and none fit quite right.

IMO....
B4 welding on a critical component, I would want to know the composition of the parts. YES...it's carbon steel but what grade all carbon steel is not equal....SAE 1020 carbon, mild steel, SAE1045, or SAE 4140 or ???...but is it hot rolled or cold rolled or the percentage of carbon in the steel, was the component forged or heat treated, what is the carbon content of the filler metal used (carbon adds strength to the metal), was any consideration given to pre-heat or post weld cool down techniques. Using a filler metal with a lower carbon content will dilute the weld boundary carbon matrix reducing the ultimate strength of the weld possibly resulting in under-bead cracking. I'm sure others will disagree.....but remember the old welders addage: "thou shall not weld on cold rolled steel, without following procedures"........ Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

There are some great stick rods out there such as Certanium 707 or Eutectic 680. They're classified as Maintenance Rods, and usually have a fair bit of chromium in them. The point is, they are strong, they don't crack, they can be drilled, and their main function is that they are great for welding dissimilar alloys together. We used rods like this (often Arcaloy 308-16) on the railroad for welding stainless wear liners into cast steel and other oddball welding.

Photon440 said:

There are some great stick rods out there such as Certanium 707 or Eutectic 680. They're classified as Maintenance Rods, and usually have a fair bit of chromium in them. The point is, they are strong, they don't crack, they can be drilled, and their main function is that they are great for welding dissimilar alloys together. We used rods like this (often Arcaloy 308-16) on the railroad for welding stainless wear liners into cast steel and other oddball welding.

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I use to design weld parameters such as Weld Procedure Specifications (WPS) and kept track of the various welders' Procedure Qualification Records (PQR) for the specified position and material being joined including pull, bend, shear and NDE (x-ray for sugar in the weld) for each position using various base metals (stainless, csrbon steels, high nickel alloys) with the filler metals necessary to do 100% full penetration welds of both root and cover passes. All to be qualified as a "Code Welder". All materials involved include providing certified material test reports (CMTR) which included the heat number for the materials used. Traceability of all components and the welders using the natetials was submitted to the client for acceptance b4 commencing work. I was involved in ASME Section VIII Division 1 unfired pressure vessels and Section IX (some Nuclear) requirements.
The electrodes you referenced are OK for "maintenance" repairs, but not OK for code requirements as the manufacturers will not provide CMTRs or heat numbers for their material, saying its "proprietary". These materials have their place, just not in code work. In spite of what their manufacturers proclaim, there is no real panacea that uses one type of rod to weld anything to anything. In the case of say a 6010 5P rod or a 7018LH or 8018LH rod, the first digits state the tensile strength, the 3rd digit says all position rod and the last digit ssys the flux coating and LH indicates Low Hydrogen composition to reduce hydrogen imbrittlement in the weld bead to prevent stress cracking. You, the welder, should know the tensile strength capabilities of the rod in relation to the base metal, to be assured that the joint or repair will be sound. Welding anything to cast iron is, at best, problematic as the significant difference between the two materials is vast and not knowing the exact composition can lead to failure without proper heat treating after welding. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

I'm aware of the numbers on regular rods; the rods I was referring to were the ones we used on the railroad, specified by the CN Engineering Technical engineers for the welding (stainless to cast steel) that I spoke of. As far as this thread goes, such a rod would suffice to prevent a stud from rotating until sufficient clamping force gets generated from torquing the wheel nut in place. There's not significant shear or tensile strength issues in this case, and a long, hot weld isn't needed. Even the factory welded balance weights to cast drums.

I always solved that by drilling/reaming the start of the stud hole a little, and grinding a little of the knurl off until I could press the larger ones in. I also try to use only black oxide studs, years ago the plated moroso ones were shearing off.

Photon440 said:

I'm aware of the numbers on regular rods; the rods I was referring to were the ones we used on the railroad, specified by the CN Engineering Technical engineers for the welding (stainless to cast steel) that I spoke of. As far as this thread goes, such a rod would suffice to prevent a stud from rotating until sufficient clamping force gets generated from torquing the wheel nut in place. There's not significant shear or tensile strength issues in this case, and a long, hot weld isn't needed. Even the factory welded balance weights to cast drums.

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If it was my vehicle, i would use the TIG setup with argon/helium shield gas and using ER70S-6 filler metal.
Shielding gases for TIG/GTAW welding.
"The normal gas for TIG welding is argon (Ar). Helium (He) can be added to increase penetration and fluidity of the weld pool. Argon or argon/helium mixtures can be used for welding all grades." But for my preferences, I would still want to know the composition of the materials being welded, to insure compatibility. I believe that TIG offeres a "better" weld...appearance and penetration wise...but it depends on the weldor....the person applying the weld...not the process. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON