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Need advice on differential removal on my 67 RT

Jay Williamson

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Need some tips on getting the differential out on my 67 RT. Shop manual sounds easy. Drop drive shaft, remove 10 case nuts and lift off. So why can I not get mine to slide off? Do I need to remove the nut at the end of the butterfly connector where the drive shaft bolts on?
 
OK, sorry for the questions, but I want to make sure I'm understanding you. So, is your 67 R/T an automatic transmission car with a 8-3/4" rear end? (looking from the back of the car, underneath, the center of the rear end doesn't have any bolts you can see or any type of "removable cover") Does that sound right?

When you say "getting out the differential", you mean removing the "center section", "chunk", "pumpkin" etc. on the 8-3/4" rear end which has 10 bolts on the front of the rear end, right?

If so, then besides unbolting the driveshaft from the rear end yoke ("butterfly connector"), you also need to remove the axles on both sides too, THEN the center section will just pull forward/out. Each axle is held in by 5 nuts & a collar (passenger side is adjustable for axle play side-to-side). You can just remove the drums & take those nuts off without removing the brakes (just rotate the axles...there's one big hole you can put a socket through).
 
It’s a 4 speed manual, but the rest sounds like you described I was hoping you weren’t going to say I need to remove the axels. I can just slide them out just a little?
 
I was hoping you weren’t going to say I need to remove the axels. I can just slide them out just a little?

A little or all the way... no real difference unless your garage isn't wide enough. :rolleyes:
 
Wow, this is a lot of work to just replace the differential gasket. Now I know why the previous owner just schlopped a bunch of sealant around the outside of the case
 
Now I know why the previous owner just schlopped a bunch of sealant around the outside of the case

So it would last long enough to sell it to you?? Just kidding. It's not that big of a job.
 
I hate when people do things half baked (clean language) and yes, I’m sure he did it so the inspector would report no leaks
 
A real 67 R/T with a 4 speed would be a Dana 60 from the factory. (Yours has probably been changed.) On a dana, the diff cover just unbolts from the rear if you just need to change the gasket. Sound like you have an 8-3/4" Chrysler rear if you have to remove the differential from the axle housing to change the gasket. It unbolts and comes out from the front of the housing. Yes, you will probably have to take off the brakes so you can remove the 5 bolts on each side to let the axles come out first. Be very careful that you do not loose, or let fall out, the spacer that is in the center to keep the axle shafts separated. It is a small part that will fall out if the differential is tilted up on it's side. You will also need to adjust the end play on your axles when re-assembling it. The adjuster should be on the passenger side axle retainer. Make sure to use the little hook bracket on one of the studs to make sure the adjuster does not loosen while in use. There are gaskets on the retainers that will probably need to be replaced also when doing this.
 
A real 67 R/T with a 4 speed would be a Dana 60 from the factory. (Yours has probably been changed.) On a dana, the diff cover just unbolts from the rear if you just need to change the gasket. Sound like you have an 8-3/4" Chrysler rear if you have to remove the differential from the axle housing to change the gasket. It unbolts and comes out from the front of the housing. Yes, you will probably have to take off the brakes so you can remove the 5 bolts on each side to let the axles come out first. Be very careful that you do not loose, or let fall out, the spacer that is in the center to keep the axle shafts separated. It is a small part that will fall out if the differential is tilted up on it's side. You will also need to adjust the end play on your axles when re-assembling it. The adjuster should be on the passenger side axle retainer. Make sure to use the little hook bracket on one of the studs to make sure the adjuster does not loosen while in use. There are gaskets on the retainers that will probably need to be replaced also when doing this.
 
This is starting to sound like it’s above my skill level. I was hoping I could pull the axels just enough to carefully pull the differential just enough to put a new gasket on. I only need to pull it enough to clear the 10 mounting bolts and slide a gasket on. So I’ll stil need to adjust the end play?
 
It will be a good time to pack the wheel bearings if you do find that you have the tapered axle bearings. My stock axle flanges have access holes to remove the retainer nuts.
 
R/T with the 440 and 4spd may be a dana 60 under it ?
This is starting to sound like it’s above my skill level. I was hoping I could pull the axels just enough to carefully pull the differential just enough to put a new gasket on. I only need to pull it enough to clear the 10 mounting bolts and slide a gasket on. So I’ll stil need to adjust the end play?

Once you have passed the studs on the way out its coming on out. Anyway you need it out to do a decent job on the clean up for the new gasket.
Use a floor jack to let it down.
Use your phone or camera and take a picture of the brake shoes & springs if you do not have a service manual , it will help going back together.
Don't worry about the axel pull and the install and adjustment for end play. Many guys on here will be able to help walk you through it. Plus its a good time to ck. those bearings and repack them like dave said.
When the punkin is cracked loose from the housing have a oil drain pan under it, 90wt is coming.
 
This is starting to sound like it’s above my skill level. I was hoping I could pull the axels just enough to carefully pull the differential just enough to put a new gasket on. I only need to pull it enough to clear the 10 mounting bolts and slide a gasket on. So I’ll stil need to adjust the end play?
You are not going to just pull it forward and "slide" a new gasket on. The whole assembly will have to be pulled out. A big part of the gears is actually inside the axle housing. It is not too bad a job, IF you know what you are doing. But you will be under the car and have to pull out a very heavy hunk of metal and put it back in. Sounds like you will need some help with this.
 
Thanks to everyone for your advice and tips. I think I’m going to try and tackle this today and I’ll let you know how it goes. Also, thanks for the advice on using the jack to lift it off and on. I didn’t think it would be all that heavy. Could have been a disaster. Not sure why the car doesn’t have a Dana rear end like Big Bad Dad mentioned, but it is a true RT. At lease that’s what the VIN number says
 
Need some tips...
Two other things....
The retainer flanges may hang up on the studs if they cock while trying to remove the axles. I've never had to but some people have gone as far as driving the studs back.
If you are removing the axle from the housing, there are oil seals on either end in the tubes you don't want to/care to damage. (Unless you are replacing them that is)
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Thanks Dave69. I’m leaving nothing to chance, so I just ordered new axel seals and rear wheel bearings. Cost me $94.00, but my time and piece of mind is worth more than that.

For just a minute I thought about cleaning the one surface of the differential housing and reusing the old gasket that is still stuck to the differential, but talked myself out of that idea. I’m going to do it right and one time only. So here we go!

Wish me luck
 
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