Need advice on differential removal on my 67 RT

Daves69 · Jun 22, 2019

Jay Williamson said:
…... so I just ordered new axel seals and rear wheel bearings....

Caution!! You should probably know EXACTLY what bearings and carrier you have currently prior to ordering. Did you at least pull the passenger side drum to check for an adjuster?

Cranky · Jun 22, 2019

This is what you are about to pull out after you get the axles out far enough to pull it..... https://www.moserengineering.com/custom-built-center-sections.item

Jay Williamson · Jun 22, 2019

dadsbee said:
If the bearings look and roll good, clean them the best you can and repack... otherwise it'll get even more fun for you! But if you need to replace them... I covered it pretty well here... http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,121731.400.html and the page following... GOOD LUCK!

First of all, your car looks amazing. I did buy new seals and bearings, but after looking at what needs to be done to replace them, I think I’ll take your advice and repack them . I did notice there is some slop between the outer flange and the bearing. Is this normal? Probably about 1/31” of space there

dadsbee · Jun 22, 2019

Gotta be some slop for assembly. Push the bearing into the cup.. rolls nice?.. flush some gas through it to clean it and repack it. Put it all back together. Of course the issue is that you cannot change the outer seal without removing the bearing, but if there are no signs of grease leakage on the brake backing plate you should be fine!

Cranky · Jun 23, 2019

dadsbee said:
Gotta be some slop for assembly. Push the bearing into the cup.. rolls nice?.. flush some gas through it to clean it and repack it. Put it all back together. Of course the issue is that you cannot change the outer seal without removing the bearing, but if there are no signs of grease leakage on the brake backing plate you should be fine!

Oh man, use something that isn't so flammable....please! I've used gas before when there was just nothing else here but in the last 20+ years, I make sure there's something else lol. It doesn't take much to ignite gasoline.

dadsbee · Jun 23, 2019

Oh Cranky... you don't wanna see what goes on around here!! LMAO! 100LL, best cleaner ever developed and doesn't go BOOM like the movies. :canada:

Cranky · Jun 23, 2019

dadsbee said:
Oh Cranky... you don't wanna see what goes on around here!! LMAO! 100LL, best cleaner ever developed and doesn't go BOOM like the movies.

LOL! Well, I've had couple of fires and one made me think I was about to burn down my shop when the flames started licking up and out from under the roof of the carport when all I had was water to put it out with. Just glad that there was enough water on hand to do the job.

eldubb440 · Jun 23, 2019

this is how full on rebuilds begin...... and never end lol

you will be tempted to pull the housing, degrease, power wash, sandblast and paint..... new leaf springs are fairly cheap..... and we're off!

Jay Williamson · Jun 23, 2019

Well, got everything out. Would love to replace the bearings, but after reading how to get the old ones off, I think I’ll just repack the ones that are in there. They seem to roll fine

Cranky said:
Oh man, use something that isn't so flammable....please! I've used gas before when there was just nothing else here but in the last 20+ years, I make sure there's something else lol. It doesn't take much to ignite gasoline.

Not to fear, I used Simple Green degreaser

YY1 · Jun 23, 2019

You're going to end up with a partial pack unless you remove those bearings.

Nothing wrong with that, but I wouldn't try to get the old grease out- just add to it.

Not the easiest thing to do...

You'll be fine.

Something doesn't look right with those brake self-adjusters.

The green spring looks contorted in the first pic and comparing the two pics makes it look like those green springs are attached differently side to side.

This would be a good time to verify the assembly and test the operation.

use your thumb to pull out on the silver braided cable and make sure the self adjuster actually turns the star wheel and it doesn't go back.

1967coronet · Jun 23, 2019

I see the same as YY1 on the adjuster, cable looks loose ? but the second pic the backing plate is on its way off the axle ? Nice Floor by the way

, anyhow if the bearings seem to roll fine and are not chipping or galling get a needle tip for your grease gun and a tube of wheel bearing grease.

Its just like a kid playing in the mud LOL. use a old hair dryer or heat gun on low will help the grease flow down into the bearing while the axle is standing upright.
Just check on that center spacer in the chunk.
new seals and a flange gasket for each side.
If you do not have a seal driver to fit a 10 " piece of 2" pvc with a cap on the end works fine for diving them in.

Daves69 · Jun 23, 2019

YY1 said:
...the two pics makes it look like those green springs are attached differently side to side....

Kinda' appears like 2 springs competing over the same hole. The bottom picture looks like the green spring is relieved since the shoe is off the pivot point and shifted up.
Is the green one supposed to attach from the inside?

oldbee · Jun 23, 2019

The bottom red spring(by green) is not the right spring imo. Also the one blue spring on e-brake strut is kinda cocked in upper pic, should be a little relaxed like the lower pic of opposite side.

YY1 · Jun 23, 2019

If grease is "flowed" into a bearing cage, IMO there is not enough grease.

It needs to be forced.

That's why leaving what's there alone might be the best course of action.

If the OP cleans out the grease that's there and can't get enough new grease in, he's F'd and the bearing will fail.

Jay Williamson · Jun 23, 2019

Thanks everyone. I will definitely check out the brake situation. I was thinking that there’s not much meat on those pads for supposedly being new. As far as packing the bearings, there wasn't much grease in there. I spent some time pushing bearing grease into the bearings and feel like I got them pretty full. I’ve had a couple of folks warn me about this center space in the differential. Where am I looking at to make sure it’s still there? I was very careful pulling the differential out and did not loose anything on the floor or inside the case

1967coronet · Jun 23, 2019

you can see the spacer looking from the side, look through the bearing were the splined axle end goes, there should be a spacer { round steel dia. of the axle } in the middle of the chunk.
that gives the axles something to bump up to , if missing you can not get your end play set for the bearings

khryslerkid · Jun 23, 2019

1967 Coronet is talking about these. They are normally held together by the thin pin. Sometimes the pin breaks and you'll find the button on the end of your axle or in the housing or housing tube if it falls off when removing the axels.

In this view the button is missing...

Get yourself a service manual and get those brake springs where they belong. I've never seen the one spring that's going over the adjuster to that pin before. Never have seen that pin located there.

Fran Blacker · Jun 23, 2019

khryslerkid said:
1967 Coronet is talking about these. They are normally held together by the thin pin. Sometimes the pin breaks and you'll find the button on the end of your axle or in the housing or housing tube if it falls off when removing the axels. View attachment 788475
In this view the button is missing...
View attachment 788476

Look at post #29 think he has a one legger?

khryslerkid · Jun 23, 2019

Fran Blacker said:
Look at post #29 think he has a one legger?

The open rear used the thrust buttons too. Am I reading your comment correctly?

Fran Blacker · Jun 23, 2019

khryslerkid said:
The open rear used the thrust buttons too. Am I reading your comment correctly?

Thought they did something else?

Need advice on differential removal on my 67 RT

Well-Known Member

Banned Henchman #27

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

Banned Henchman #27

FBBO Gold Member

Banned Henchman #27

more miracles than Jesus

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

FBBO Gold Member

Similar threads