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dipstick tube look ok?

Rockett

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Here's the base of my oil dipstick tube where it enters the block just above the oil pan. Is this OK?, ....or should the flange on the tube be all the way down against the cast block?
IMG_1478.JPG

I bought the car this way. Should I beat it down?
:drama:
 
As long as your stick is marked correctly it won't matter. "Normally" they're pushed in all the way, but on my aftermarket tube I had to sand it down to get it to seat fully in the block.
 
As long as your stick is marked correctly it won't matter. "Normally" they're pushed in all the way, but on my aftermarket tube I had to sand it down to get it to seat fully in the block.
I assume that the stick was marked for this engine with this tube & its flange.
Rats! Sounds like someone didn't install it correctly?
I guess it could be pushed in further (I'd hate to hammer on it), or ...cut a comparable amount off the *top* of the tube (....or just make a *mental note of the difference* when reading the stick).
Ugh. I tend to be a perfectionist tho.
 
I second the notion of using a tubing cutter to trip from the top until the stick reads correctly.
 
Smack it a couple of times with a dead blow hammer and it should seat. I just finished installing a new one and the dead blow imparts enough force without damaging the tube or its finish.
 
Making sure the tube is tight in the block, is the most important thing. I would try to tap it down just to make sure. Tap down on the raised shoulder with a crows foot or a dull screw driver etc.
 
the crows foot is idea good slid it down the tube then with an 3/8 long extension tap it in flush with the block
 
There may be a bracket bolted to the motor mount bolt. That will keep it from moving or worse rip out of the tube.
 
I have to fold mine in half then squeeze it in to get it almost all the way......
 
Are we still talking about the 383 engine in my Roadrunner? LOL.
But ....What's a crow's foot?
Maybe I could use a deep socket just the right diameter to fit over the dipstick tube & slide it down to the flange... then tap it around the edges with a punch?
Or should I go for the "dead blow" with a hammer at the top? Or *gently* tap it at the top?
Do engine builders typically use some gasket sealer on that tube? (If so, I might be better off just to leave it alone.)
 
Crows foot... like a tube wrench but designed to go on a ratchet. That said.. a tube wrench would be easier to attempt hammering on.
 
Crows foot... like a tube wrench but designed to go on a ratchet. That said.. a tube wrench would be easier to attempt hammering on.
Oh, yes, I just Googled "crows foot wrench". Gotcha!
And yes, maybe just a tube wrench... box end!

But I guess the consensus is, "It should be installed with the flange against the block."
 
Next time drill the block a few thousandths over size. Seal it with RTV. It can be easily removed later. Never had a leak doing it this way for years.
Doug
 
While we're on the subject... On my recent rebuild, I bought the 'Mr. Gasket' brand dipstick and tube from Summit. It fit perfectly, every other dipstick I've used over the years I had to work to get it in all the way either by sanding a little off and beating it in with a 3/8 wrench around it, or clearancing the hole a little, or both... The Mr. Gasket tube fits tight enough that it's not leaking but it went in without much fuss. Pushed in about half way by hand, and then some easy taps with the hammer seated it the rest of the way.
 
While we're on the subject... On my recent rebuild, I bought the 'Mr. Gasket' brand dipstick and tube from Summit. It fit perfectly, every other dipstick I've used over the years I had to work to get it in all the way either by sanding a little off and beating it in with a 3/8 wrench around it, or clearancing the hole a little, or both... The Mr. Gasket tube fits tight enough that it's not leaking but it went in without much fuss. Pushed in about half way by hand, and then some easy taps with the hammer seated it the rest of the way.
I put an open end wrench on it today & hit it a few times, as best I could with a hammer, but no luck. I'm guessing that people usually put some gasket sealer on it when installing? Anyway, I may eventually pull it out (just tug hard??) & replace it then with the Mr Gasket brand you've recommended. Thanks!
 
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