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fresh 440 build has 90 lbs of oil pressure at idle

jprather

jprather

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just installed a 440 build by a "professional builder " when I went to pick up motor, it pegged the oil pressure gauge, blew out rear main seal and oil filter ( was on run stand ) . builder says he put a new oil pump on and fixed read main and replaced oil filter, I went back picked up motor, still on run stand, he ran it, all looked find, but he did not have oil pressure gauge hooked up, I dont remember his reason why.

just got it all plumbed and wired up yesterday, fired it up, still has 90 lbs of oil pressure at idle, and pegs pressure gauge at 1500 rpms, blew out oil filter seal again.

builder is not responding to texts, even though a 12 month /12000 mile warranty on engine.

could it be a 2nd bad oil pump ? is there something else going on here internal ??

at a loss, took 9 months to get the engine as it was, so I am over this thing !

any advise ?
 
Try a standard volume Melling pump. Take it apart and check for machining metal and look at the casting suction and discharge holes, might need some clean up. They aint what they used to be. Sounds like your pump may have a stuck pressure relief valve. What pump is in it now?
 
according to the build seet..

Melling HV63 Hi Vol oil pump
 
change the relief spring to a stock one. those HV relief springs are just plain stupid.
 
Same with me, too much oil pressure fresh engine.Pegged the 80psi gauge in the car.Even hot it was above 60 at idle and pegged the gauge at speed. I swapped out the pressure relief spring with one from a standard pump.Now It has 60 cold and 30-35 at idle hot.At speed 50-60 hot.
 
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ok, gonna pull pump off monday.. man this sucks.. 10 months with out my car now
 
No need to pull the pump easy to change the spring on the car.
 
Darter6 said:
Same with me, too much oil pressure fresh engine.Pegged the 80psi gauge in the car.Even hot ot was above 60 at idle and pegged the gauge at speed. I swapped out the pressure relief spring with one from a standard pump.Now It has 60 cold and 30-35 at idle hot.At speed 50-60 hot.
Click to expand...
Just the opposite for me ,standard pump black spring same pressure as yours.
 
this sounds like a stock half groove main bearing, stock oil clearances, and stock 3/8" pick-up build. no need for a HV pump. this HV pump thing in my opinion isn't necessary for a lot of builds. that being said there isn't a need to change the pump. just unscrew the plug out of the back of the pump and replace the spring. see if you can find an old stock red spring. also don't use heavy weight oils. nothing more than a straight 30wt will do the job.
 
Hi po? We should know the builder for our reference.
 
Unfortunately the spring faces the wrong direction.no clearance . so I have to pull the pump.. it has 15 w40 rotella in it now
 
so high pressure is bad for my 440? My oil gauge is pegged almost all the time. No oil leaks using 10/30 full synthetic. Basic build nothing fancy.
 
davek said:
so high pressure is bad for my 440? My oil gauge is pegged almost all the time. No oil leaks using 10/30 full synthetic. Basic build nothing fancy.
Click to expand...

Same here,80 + at start and on the road,65 at idle.Been that way since 1992,no leaks, no blown filter gasket,no nothing, Brad Penn 15/40!
 
Oil pressure is related to the Bearing clearances present in the Engine, as well as the Wt. of Oil you are trying to push through those clearances.
Engine Bearings rely upon the free flow of Oil IN for lubrication, and more importantly OUT again in a "hp" type engine build, for actual cooling of the bearing itself by allowing new cooler/fresh INcoming Oil again because as rpm and loads increase so too does the "heat" on the Bearing.
That's one of the biggest mistakes imo, with people/DIY guys trying to do an "HP" type Engine build or heaven forbid a "Stroker" type build, is that they don't realize the relationship between Bearing Clrc requirements Vrs the "application" as it relates to hp ?

Ask your Engine builder.... what are the Bearing Clearances in the Engine ?
but it sounds like your Engine has tight Bearing clearances ? or the Oil is too thick for whatever Bearing Clearances are present in the Engine ?
 
Few engines need a HI volume oil pump. Same with the precious 20/50 weight oil. It should not be where you go on your street car. Your bearing clearances dictate oil viscosity.

I suggest a standard oil pump and 10/30 or 5/20 oil for this engine. Your builder should know the bearing type and clearance, ask him!

He does need to change the entire pump, the rotors are much wider in a HV pump. Proven because the mounting bolts are longer.
 
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How many guys here with the really high Oil Pressures.... have ever hooked up an Oil Temp gauge to your Engines, or, and be honest here.... have always had Engines that run on the "HOT" side of things ? let be have actually issues with over heating ?
Hmmmm ?
 
10-40 Amsoil. Pegged on initial start, drops just off peg when warm. 75k hard miles. No issues. 30 over 440. 415 RWHP.
 
excessive oil pressure wears out the intermediate shaft bushing, which wears the shaft, and can cause the gear to wobble on the cam gear, which can effect timing and distributor bushings. keep in mind that pressure is an indicator of restriction, not flow. I don't do the pressure thing anymore.
 
I would rather not name the builder just yet, I want to give him a chance to respond and make it right, says 12 mo /12,000 war ..

spec sheet
seasoned 440 block- baked and shot blasted, checked for damage, cleaned , bored .30 over and honed for molly rings, all threads chased
new cam bearings , freeze plugs / galley plugs/distib bushing,
total seal molly rings,
clevite 77 bearings for street use
crank inspected/cut/or polished. galley holes chamfered , rods resized and arp bolts installed
reciprocating assbly balanced
melling HI Vol oil pump
comp cams extreme engery hyd cam and lifrt kit 284/296 and 5.11 kift
avon double roller timing kit
mp hardened oil pump/ disribt drive
problem solver rear main seal
fel pro gasket set
cast iron heads w hard seat.. baked , shot blasted, guides installed , 3 angle valve job, edlebrock springs, locks, retainers, pc seals - set to cam
hd hydrolic rockers and shafts
now 440 source hydrolic push rods
edlebrock torker intake
alum water pump housing/pump combo
recon balancer, mp elec. dist, fully assb. new grade 8 hardware,
pre primed and ready to install
 
jprather said:
just installed a 440 build by a "professional builder " when I went to pick up motor, it pegged the oil pressure gauge, blew out rear main seal and oil filter ( was on run stand ) . builder says he put a new oil pump on and fixed read main and replaced oil filter, I went back picked up motor, still on run stand, he ran it, all looked find, but he did not have oil pressure gauge hooked up, I dont remember his reason why.

just got it all plumbed and wired up yesterday, fired it up, still has 90 lbs of oil pressure at idle, and pegs pressure gauge at 1500 rpms, blew out oil filter seal again.

builder is not responding to texts, even though a 12 month /12000 mile warranty on engine.

could it be a 2nd bad oil pump ? is there something else going on here internal ??

at a loss, took 9 months to get the engine as it was, so I am over this thing !

any advise ?
Click to expand...

What is the the oil pressure when it is good and hot at idle and cruising down the road? What kind of gauge, mechanical or electric? Electric seem to read higher.

Every 1/2 groove factory clearance engine I've built or been around has an initial start-up oil pressure about 90 psi if it has a HV pump. 90 psi should not cause oil leaks or blow up oil filters and seals.

Use a 0-30 or 0-20 oil.

I could change the relief spring on all the BB Mopars that I've worked on. Arguably, I have not worked on every B body style. You don't need much clearance. What's the interference?

All that said, I'd probably put a standard volume pump on it. Even a std volume high pressure pump will have lower idle pressure.
 
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