New torsion bars -- ride height

I installed from new torsion bars in the old girl and am trying to set ride height before getting aligned.

Right now I am at
Left --- 10 inches at point A, 9 inches at point B (1 inch ride height)
Right -- 10.25, 9.25 (1 inch ride height)
Two questions (one a dumb one)
1. When I adjust height with LCA bolt, does point B (bottom of steering knuckle ball joint) always stay the same? It's point A that moves?
2. What is more important, having point A and/or point B being the same on both sides OR having the ride height the same on both sides? I'm thinking it's mathematically impossible for me to get everything EXACTLY the same.
Just an FYI, my front fender lip is 26.5 inches from ground on right, 25.75 on left. And 26.5 rear right, 27.5 rear left. But she doesn't look crooked at all or anything like that. Also, to complicate things my garage floor probably isn't perfectly level. It looks level but I'm sure it's not "alignment rack" level
Thanks

Point B should stay the same. Tire pressure will affect this, as well as a lump or a dip in your floor where you measure from. The ride height should be the same side to side . Fender heights etc. are quite often different side to side. Just rember you are not dealing with a swiss watch. It is best if you jack up the car when you are adjusting the height, to take the weight off the jacking screws, then roll it back and forth a bit. After your ride height is set you should take a drive and check it again.

JG1966 said:

I installed from new torsion bars in the old girl and am trying to set ride height before getting aligned.
View attachment 791493
Right now I am at
Left --- 10 inches at point A, 9 inches at point B (1 inch ride height)
Right -- 10.25, 9.25 (1 inch ride height)
Two questions (one a dumb one)
1. When I adjust height with LCA bolt, does point B (bottom of steering knuckle ball joint) always stay the same? It's point A that moves?
2. What is more important, having point A and/or point B being the same on both sides OR having the ride height the same on both sides? I'm thinking it's mathematically impossible for me to get everything EXACTLY the same.
Just an FYI, my front fender lip is 26.5 inches from ground on right, 25.75 on left. And 26.5 rear right, 27.5 rear left. But she doesn't look crooked at all or anything like that. Also, to complicate things my garage floor probably isn't perfectly level. It looks level but I'm sure it's not "alignment rack" level
Thanks

Click to expand...

I am sure that the small differences that your “off”off is still better than the factory line set up. Personally I set the body to be balanced and after I did that she drives straight. Maybe I got lucky. But one thing for certain that I found is that a lower front ride height setting is better handling wise. So play with that you would be surprised as you compare different heights.

First, what size tb’s? Don’t use the factory set up, best to use a tape measure from the floor to the fender lip. Also, it’s not a bad idea to check the distance at the bottom bump stop to the frame. Bigger tb’s need to bet a different way, 1 inch and bigger.

5.7 hemi said:

First, what size tb’s? Don’t use the factory set up, best to use a tape measure from the floor to the fender lip. Also, it’s not a bad idea to check the distance at the bottom bump stop to the frame. Bigger tb’s need to bet a different way, 1 inch and bigger.

Click to expand...

5.7 hemi said:

First, what size tb’s? Don’t use the factory set up, best to use a tape measure from the floor to the fender lip. Also, it’s not a bad idea to check the distance at the bottom bump stop to the frame. Bigger tb’s need to bet a different way, 1 inch and bigger.

Click to expand...

Thanks 5.7. New torsion bars are 1.08.

Ok. Let’s reset the bars. Get them out of the lca, now jack up the lca till about level with the floor. Now reinstall the tb, nothing different from this point on to installing them. Once you’ve got the car ready to go back on its wheels, set it down. Sitting pretty low? Yup! Now jack it up, tighten the tb’s. Set on the ground. Measure from the floor to the fender lip on both sides. Adjust as necessary to achieve your particular ride height/stance. Always make the drivers side a tad higher as the drivers weight will bring the car down a smidge.

R/T Boy 67 said:

It is best if you jack up the car when you are adjusting the height, to take the weight off the jacking screws

Click to expand...

I disagree with you, on that.
Service manual clearly says weight of the car needs to be 'on the ground', to adjust ride height. Unless those adjusting bolts are screwed up, threads galled, or the like, they turn fine. Just use a bigger ratchet, or breaker bar. I have done this many times, yes, even ran into a few 'rough ones', because the threads were not in good shape.
They CAN get stripped out.
When I put mine together, I coat the bolt threads with door-eze, waxy, lubes the threads, stays in place.

To the OP, most of everything else is right. Final adjustment is the difference between A and B. B stays the same. ADD the ride height adjustment to B, and using that measurement, adjust A for that measurement. No more than 1/8" difference, side to side.

Just slap the adjuster screws in copper coat to add some protection against the elements as well.
After any adjustment you can bounce the car a bit, lift it up by hand on the bumper and after several pushes on each side will set it.
Then you can check ride height again.