Wife's 65 Wagon ignition

Timmayy · Jul 2, 2019

I troll around and read a lot of thread here and the info is extremely helpful. I've solved more than a few problems here.
Anyway, My wife's 65 Belvedere wagon (the Creep Wagon as she calls it) is completely stock 273/auto. I just did the standard Mancini racing electronic ignition conversion. Having starting issues. Sometimes it starts right up, other times no spark. I've replaced all electrical components under the hood, coil, ballast, relay, even cleaned and replaced terminals on bulkhead. Made sure everything is grounded etc.
Battery shows 12+ volts easily. Going into the ballast resistor is 10+volts. Coming out of ballast is just under 5 volts. (4.6-4.8) Same going into the coil.

I read here that the Wells voltage regulator VR706 is better. Anything else needed for upgrade? I got it running I just want long term reliability (Read wife's car and I don't want any calls that she's stuck at the beach etc etc...) Thanks for any help.

HALIFAXHOPS · Jul 2, 2019

Check the pick up coil they can get intermittent

vance.dykes · Jul 2, 2019

HALIFAXHOPS said:
Check the pick up coil they can get intermittent

yes i have had some new mopar dizzys [ lol i love that kiwi sound a mate ] that were bad out of the box . i would replace the dizzy with an m.s.d or some others have said they use on hear.

YY1 · Jul 2, 2019

pickup coil is relatively easy to replace

Frank Mopar · Jul 2, 2019

Check the reluctor gap. I had a brand new Chinese orange box upgrade kit from Summit that had hot hard starts. That was the problem.

The orange box garbage is gone in favor of a HEI setup. Huge improvement.

Timmayy · Jul 2, 2019

Thanks all, I really don't want to spend more on a new "dizzy" or HEI. I want to stick with the stock stuff. The coil id brand new. Is there another box besides the orange box that's better?

vance.dykes · Jul 2, 2019

Timmayy said:
Thanks all, I really don't want to spend more on a new "dizzy" or HEI. I want to stick with the stock stuff. The coil id brand new. Is there another box besides the orange box that's better?

mopar has 3 different box's [i think ] black = stock orange = street chrome= race most are made cheep now days so it is the luck of the draw. this is why most replace and go with aftermarket. check the air gap on the pick up coil and 8-pointed reluctor and auj as needed.use a brass feeler gage set to factory spec,

Timmayy · Jul 2, 2019

I did check the air gap before putting it in. What's a good aftermarket box for a stock 2bbl?

vance.dykes · Jul 2, 2019

Timmayy said:
I did check the air gap before putting it in. What's a good aftermarket box for a stock 2bbl?

could double check as after running some thing may have moved ? i would see what napa has check warranty if it goes bad will they replace for free.or go to a salvage yard and get an old one off a car. as long as the epoxy is not bubbled and not melting out should be good.just my op,

YY1 · Jul 2, 2019

nothing wrong with OEM

they were the first

still good today

If you're running it though, you should probably have a spare box or two handy at all times.

I keep a spare in the trunk of all my cars plus a few in the shop.
Same with ballast resistors and voltage regulators.

Be aware that just because a box is chrome (or orange for that matter) doesn't mean it's a "chrome box".

A "chrome box" or "orange box" has a Chrysler part # IIRC.

vance.dykes · Jul 2, 2019

YY1 said:
nothing wrong with OEM

they were the first

still good today

If you're running it though, you should probably have a spare box or two handy at all times.

I keep a spare in the trunk of all my cars plus a few in the shop.
Same with ballast resistors and voltage regulators.

Be aware that just because a box is chrome (or orange for that matter) doesn't mean it's a "chrome box".

A "chrome box" or "orange box" has a Chrysler part # IIRC.

you are right that is why i said mopar. he asked about aftermarket and i said n a p a

Timmayy · Jul 2, 2019

Is it normal to have 10.5 volts going into the ballast resistor and 4.5 coming out?

vance.dykes · Jul 2, 2019

Timmayy said:
Is it normal to have 10.5 volts going into the ballast resistor and 4.5 coming out?

see what the battery voltage at the battery and should be with in .5 of a volt.i.e. battery 12.25 at ballast 11.80 ish

Frank Mopar · Jul 2, 2019

You have a big voltage drop going to the ballast

Get yourself a relay and do this.

Hook the RUN wire of the ballast to a relay pin 86. Ground pin 85. Now the key runs just the relay.

Run a wire from the stud on starter to relay pin 30. Now a wire from relay pin 87 to the ballast.

Now you have full battery voltage to the run circuit of the ballast

YY1 · Jul 2, 2019

shouldn't need to do that

it should work as designed

Andew Sury · Jul 2, 2019

First thing I would look for is where the voltage drop is at the hot side of a ballast. And make sure it needs the resistor. Hot side shhould be very close to battery voltage.

When I bought my Hemi a few months ago, starting was a matter of luck. She was a fickle bitch.

I popped the cap to find a Pertronix where my dualpoint should be. I went on the Pertronix website to find they never changed the coil nor bypassed the resistor. Bought the right coil, regapped my fresh plugs to .045, and she hits first crank every time.

But I have 12.70V at my coil + key on engine off.

Frank Mopar · Jul 2, 2019

YY1 said:
shouldn't need to do that

it should work as designed

I agree you shouldn't need to do it but we talking about 50+ yo old wiring and connections. Put in the relay problem eliminated.

YY1 · Jul 2, 2019

do we know that's the problem?

HALIFAXHOPS · Jul 3, 2019

Sounds like the ballast resistor is grounding check both terminals to ground WITH THE WIRES OFF, any thing it is probably rubbing the paint of the body on the back. If so get a sealed resistor.

Timmayy · Jul 3, 2019

vance.dykes said:
see what the battery voltage at the battery and should be with in .5 of a volt.i.e. battery 12.25 at ballast 11.80 ish

Yeah I got 12.4 off the battery when we checked it.

Wife's 65 Wagon ignition

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