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Replacing springs in my stock distributor, 69 RR 383

mpro69rr

mpro69rr

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Hey Guys,

I'm going to be replacing the springs in my distributor. I have gold, silver and black, Which ones should I use to begin tuning? I don't know which ones are weaker or stronger and I heard you use one weak and one strong one. I have the FOB round plate to limit my initial advance what should I set that at? I'm thinking 14*? I am also installing pertronix II and the coil that goes with it. Thanks!
 
Years ago on nearly stock 383, low CR, Edlelbrock & 3310 Holley, headers motor I used 1 light spring & 1 medium spring. May have used aftermarket light spring with the lighter of the 2 stock springs. My opinion, stock type motor with should shoot for about 32-34* total. Hopefully you have a timing tape or degreed balancer. I had access to a distributor machine & brazed up the slots so the mech advance was limited & could put more initial in with vac advance disconnected. Old school stuff.
 
what you use for springs depends on what distributor, and other factors. I don't use the delco/msd type springs for factory mopar distributors.
 
lewtot184 said:
what you use for springs depends on what distributor, and other factors. I don't use the delco/msd type springs for factory mopar distributors.
Click to expand...

I got the springs in the FBO kit.
 
A lot in your question. On the springs...I messed around with them and found that middle springs in the FBO kit had my distributors coming in at about 1200 rpm and were fully in at about 2150 rpm. That worked for me. Weaker springs will bring the advance in sooner, stronger later.

On the slot to use. If you wanted to start with lets say 16 or 18 initial, and targeted 32 to 34 all in, then you just use the difference. I found that the plate sort of “rounds up”, meaning that if I used the 12 degree slot I was getting nearer to 14 as a difference. I think this is due to the plate doesn’t really center in the distributor and so there is some play, I used the same springs on each weight to help the plate remain centered.

I really do not recommend anything more than 34 with today’s gas, Rick E from Mopar Action feels more like 32 for a street car with today’s gas, he was kind enough to help me in a series of notes as I was struggling with a tune a year ago.

There is going to be some trial and error here. It is less of a sin to have too much initial timing versus having too much full advance timing where detonation is the danger. My advice, set a number you are comfortable trying and then give it a whirl. You can always adjust the initial based on how it is idling and how it runs, if this is street driven being 32 or 34 shouldn’t really matter that much other than a seat of the pants feel.
 
Last edited:
Kowal said:
A lot in your question. On the springs...I messed around with them and found that middle springs in the FBO kit had my distributors coming in at about 1200 rpm and were fully in at about 2150 rpm. That worked for me. Weaker springs will bring the advance in sooner, stronger later.

On the slot to use. If you wanted to start with lets say 16 or 18 initial, and targeted 32 to 34 all in, then you just use the difference. I found that the plate sort of “rounds up”, meaning that if I used the 12 degree slot I was getting nearer to 14 as a difference. I think this is due to the plate doesn’t really center in the distributor and so there is some play, I used the same springs on each weight to help the plate remain centered.

I really do not recommend anything more than 34 with today’s gas, Rick E from Mopar Action feels more like 32 for a street car with today’s gas, he was kind enough to help me in a series of notes as I was struggling with a tune a year ago.

There is going to be some trial and error here. It is less of a sin to have too much initial timing versus having too much full advance timing where detonation is the danger. My advice, set a number you are comfortable trying and then give it a whirl. You can always adjust the initial based on how it is idling and how it runs, if this is street driven being 32 or 34 shouldn’t really matter that much other than a seat of the pants feel.
Click to expand...

Great info, exactly what I was looking for! Thanks again Kowal!
 
Same set up as a gm, not sure which are which but think Kowal nailed it.
 
Kowal said:
A lot in your question. On the springs...I messed around with them and found that middle springs in the FBO kit had my distributors coming in at about 1200 rpm and were fully in at about 2150 rpm. That worked for me. Weaker springs will bring the advance in sooner, stronger later.

On the slot to use. If you wanted to start with lets say 16 or 18 initial, and targeted 32 to 34 all in, then you just use the difference. I found that the plate sort of “rounds up”, meaning that if I used the 12 degree slot I was getting nearer to 14 as a difference. I think this is due to the plate doesn’t really center in the distributor and so there is some play, I used the same springs on each weight to help the plate remain centered.

I really do not recommend anything more than 34 with today’s gas, Rick E from Mopar Action feels more like 32 for a street car with today’s gas, he was kind enough to help me in a series of notes as I was struggling with a tune a year ago.

There is going to be some trial and error here. It is less of a sin to have too much initial timing versus having too much full advance timing where detonation is the danger. My advice, set a number you are comfortable trying and then give it a whirl. You can always adjust the initial based on how it is idling and how it runs, if this is street driven being 32 or 34 shouldn’t really matter that much other than a seat of the pants feel.
Click to expand...

Well, this went to all hell! I took everything apart and couldn't get the shaft nut off, it just kept on spinning! I'm use to this, most everything else went to hell, so life goes on! lol I ordered a new points distributor and will install the pertronix but not the plate. I don't want to ruin another distributor. I'll tell you this whole thing to get this 69 RR safe and road worthy has been an adventure!
 
Only reason I brought it up, I've had stripped nuts, had to force them off, or even split the nut. Depends on which is harder steel, whether the threads are still usable.
Might not be worth the trouble.
 
miller said:
Only reason I brought it up, I've had stripped nuts, had to force them off, or even split the nut. Depends on which is harder steel, whether the threads are still usable.
Might not be worth the trouble.
Click to expand...

I don't think its worth the trouble, so I ordered another one.
 
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