Looking for the push button gear selector procedure 64
- Thread starter Heimedw
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What are you asking?
I do not understand the question.
miller
Well-Known Member
Shift cable adjusting??
Glenwood
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dukeboy_318
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what are you asking? They are essentially the same. The biggest difference comes from the 64/65 switch to cable shifted transmissions from the push buttons. Differences in the rooster comb and cable end size. More detail and explanation is needed to accurately answer your questions
The most fool proof way is to pull the pan. Watch the neutral switch. Pull the park lever down when it's in reverse. Then do the same when it's in 1st. If it centers on the neutral safety switch from both directions you've got it perfect.
Doug
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Easier yet is just hook up a ohms meter to the neutral safety switch. Method #3 or #2 for test light...
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html
Here's some mechanical. Copy these two links for your files!
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mopar-push-button-transmission-park-cable-tech-tips.html
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html
Here's some mechanical. Copy these two links for your files!
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mopar-push-button-transmission-park-cable-tech-tips.html
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Evan Frucht
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The actual pushbutton units from 1963 and 1964 are interchangeable. Same part. As far as the actuall transmission I think they might be the same as well.
They are reliable units but can be a little confusing to get hooked up properly if it's been messed with. I had some trouble getting mine perfectly dialed in but have since figured it out (with help here) and it works well now.
Those links are very helpful but here is my story..
Mine had a broken main springs and some little clips that are part of the mechanism and hold the buttons depresses were busted. I didnt know this at first.
After much fiddling, inspection, trial, error, and even breaking down once, I eventually discovered the damage (it was hard to tell if it was broken or just maladjusted) and had to get a new unit
Alot of times just the main park lever spring is broken which is available from Joe Suchy for 7 dollars--- In that case you DO NOT need a whole new (used) unit. You only need a replacement shifter if the "fish mouth" clips are broken (ones that hold buttons in.) And From what I gathered those are much less likely to break... I just got unlucky. So keep that in mind
Not saying yours is even broken, but it may be worth checking before you start pulling hair out.
They are reliable units but can be a little confusing to get hooked up properly if it's been messed with. I had some trouble getting mine perfectly dialed in but have since figured it out (with help here) and it works well now.
Those links are very helpful but here is my story..
Mine had a broken main springs and some little clips that are part of the mechanism and hold the buttons depresses were busted. I didnt know this at first.
After much fiddling, inspection, trial, error, and even breaking down once, I eventually discovered the damage (it was hard to tell if it was broken or just maladjusted) and had to get a new unit
Alot of times just the main park lever spring is broken which is available from Joe Suchy for 7 dollars--- In that case you DO NOT need a whole new (used) unit. You only need a replacement shifter if the "fish mouth" clips are broken (ones that hold buttons in.) And From what I gathered those are much less likely to break... I just got unlucky. So keep that in mind
Not saying yours is even broken, but it may be worth checking before you start pulling hair out.
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See what I'm saying about this young man...he's a natural
!I just added two new words to my description dictionary, maladjusted and fish mouth. Hey one of the hardest things about becoming a mechanic is describing symptoms and parts that don't have a name. Well done!
The other thing that I can say is that you studied and diagnosed your problem. The shifter mechanism looks complicated but once you see how it all works, it's not. I always have to imagine how the original designer even came up with a contraption to do what it does. That's the craziness that I enjoy when working on these rides.
The trick to solving any like problem is to become totally familiar with what you are working on. Understand exactly whats going on and why. Just guessing and throwing parts at it will cause more aggravation and it will not accomplish much at all.
Good job @Evan Frucht ! You've become an expert on pushbutton shifters and I'm happy to say your knowledge can be passed on the the next generation
(one of my concerns about what happens to these cars in the future)
Heimedw
Well-Known Member
I build a serious street engine and had the transmission beefed up to handle the motor. I wanted to keep my push button so we installed a 24 spline shaft, bigger bushings , better clutches and upgraded sprag. The gentleman that is rebuilding the trans said it is critical to get the shift linkage adjustment correct. He said if you select a gear and it's not fully in that gear it would burn up very quickly. He told me one procedure but it was a little confusing being explained. Thanks for the links.
dukeboy_318
Well-Known Member
Ok that makes sense now.
Just because it cranks in neutral doesn't mean its properly adjusted. I used to use that method myself. We race with 65 pushbutton units. At 700, 800, and 900 hp for years. If the manual valve isn't centered perfectly it can alter the shifts. Ive experienced 1500 rpm lag on the 1/2 shift. Also seen severe 2/3 overlap. Both times do to the manual valve not being centered. Will it drive on the street when its not perfect? Yes.
Doug
Doug
A 'difference' with the design though likely not what you might be inquiring about between the 62/63 and the 64 is the layout of the buttons in the dash, the 62/63 were angled whereas the 64 were vertically aligned. If not forgetting the arrangement (or maybe so), the shift pattern for manual VB or SS set up was from the bottom D, 2nd, and 1st...
Dipstick
Well-Known Member
There's nothing wrong with the factory adjustment procedure, it works. Because the PB procedure requires pushing on the cable with the shifter in R, I've found that it's harder to judge the pressure when pushing than it is to judge the pressure when pulling with the shifter in 1. That's why I use the console/column procedure for all.
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