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What The Hell! Now WHAT! oil pressure

Something caused that intermediate shaft to bind and break. I would look into a jam in the rotating assembly. Also with that starter broken I Highly recommend looking at your transmission and torque converter bolts. Also clean the debris out of that bell area. Check the torque converter bolts. Seems like something stopped the rotation dead in its tracks to break all this stuff.
 
The oil pump is externally on the engine, you can't get to the distributor gear from the oil pan. You have to remove the oil pump and tap the gear out from there.
 
Something caused that intermediate shaft to bind and break. I would look into a jam in the rotating assembly. Also with that starter broken I Highly recommend looking at your transmission and torque converter bolts. Also clean the debris out of that bell area. Check the torque converter bolts. Seems like something stopped the rotation dead in its tracks to break all this stuff.

Thanks. I have a 4 speed, but I will check everything out. My thoughts is the oil pump binded which caused everything else to bind, but I could be wrong.
 
The oil pump is externally on the engine, you can't get to the distributor gear from the oil pan. You have to remove the oil pump and tap the gear out from there.

Thanks, where on the block is the oil pump located? Do I have to take the water pump off?
 
on the side of the block where the oil filter screws on
and no you don't have to remove the water pump
 
Thanks, where on the block is the oil pump located? Do I have to take the water pump off?
Your oil pump what your oil filter is attached to and no you don't have to remove the water pump.
 
Thanks, where on the block is the oil pump located? Do I have to take the water pump off?
Can remove the whole pump assy. where it attaches to block. Its the assy that the filter goes on, may have to raise engine.
You can check pump with allen wrench to see if it is locked up or just replace it while you have it out. the pumped locked up or the shaft just got old. LOL
Make sure teeth on cam are OK.
 
I had a shaft shear upon start up after doing a simple oil change. Pressure never came up and started knockin. Thinkin the filter was bad, replaced and still nothing. Started with a new pump, and upon pulling the old. I saw something broken inside the pump, WTF is that thing? Pulled the dist. and shaft and sure enough, the sucker had sheared. Of course the motor had about 100K when it happened so your situation could be different? Just a story of what happened one time with me, Good Luck!
 
Suggestion. Slow down in your analysis. It would be really, really, unusual for the pump to catastrophically fail. If and when you take it off, or hold a new one in your hand, you will see why, there isn’t much to them. You could have something else binding as noted on this and the other thread. One way to get the oil pump/distributor intermediate gear/shaft out is a really long needle nose pliers from the top distributor hole. You rock the gear back and forth a bit and it should work itself out (unless it is binding somewhere). Getting that gear out and turning the motor over by hand (spark plugs removed) should tell you a lot as to if it is binding. (One last note...later once you figure out the binding problem we can all talk about how to put the distributor back on TDC. Please talk to us first on that one.). One more thing...you are sure the distributor was for a 383, not a 440/426.
 
Suggestion. Slow down in your analysis. It would be really, really, unusual for the pump to catastrophically fail. If and when you take it off, or hold a new one in your hand, you will see why, there isn’t much to them. You could have something else binding as noted on this and the other thread. One way to get the oil pump/distributor intermediate gear/shaft out is a really long needle nose pliers from the top distributor hole. You rock the gear back and forth a bit and it should work itself out (unless it is binding somewhere). Getting that gear out and turning the motor over by hand (spark plugs removed) should tell you a lot as to if it is binding. (One last note...later once you figure out the binding problem we can all talk about how to put the distributor back on TDC. Please talk to us first on that one.). One more thing...you are sure the distributor was for a 383, not a 440/426.

Thanks, Yes, the distributor was for a 383, I compared it with the old one. I have to get a new starter because that broke too. I have to tear everything apart AGAIN (long story) so I am thinking of rebuilding the top end. Right now I'm trying to do a compression test to see if the bottom end is good, that's what Hughes engines is having me do.
 
Thanks, Yes, the distributor was for a 383, I compared it with the old one. I have to get a new starter because that broke too. I have to tear everything apart AGAIN (long story) so I am thinking of rebuilding the top end. Right now I'm trying to do a compression test to see if the bottom end is good, that's what Hughes engines is having me do.

Good!
 
A good oil pump and distribute drive over on FABO.
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:popcorn2:
WHY are you talking about pulling the oil pump?
I seriously doubt the oil pump caused your problem...unless you have big chunks of crap running through the engine. The starter kick-back is what busted your parts.

Get/make a 'pre-oiling shaft', that's used while the intermediate shaft is out. It has the hex end on it, to fit into the oil pump. If the oil pump turns, via that shaft, with no binding...should be good to go. Don't mistake binding, for when the pump pulls oil into itself. Yep, you'll feel a slight drag, as the pump loads up.

One part I suggest you carefully look over...your starter 'ring gear'! That's the gear, that's fastened onto your clutch pressure plate, that the starter engages to start. A chance a tooth or two might have gotten knocked off.

Later, we need to talk about your TIMING, since that is what probably caused the kick-back. Sure, that's not a positive thing. Possible 'something' broke, causing the lock-up.
Clues...spark plugs out, by hand, see what turns good on the engine, or doesn't.

Distributor points...black spot on the contacts...a possible sign, of a bad condenser.
Easy to find out, by changing it, and see how it acts!! You should always carry a spare with you, anyway.

DAMN! That was a mouthful!
 
You can make an oil pump priming shaft. Cut a hex wrench the proper sized one, 18" appox long And a round piece of steel. Weld or braze them together.
 
You can make an oil pump priming shaft. Cut a hex wrench the proper sized one, 18" appox long And a round piece of steel. Weld or braze them together.
What a half assed, redneck, hilljack way of fixin something!
 
My homemade is pretty simple...have had it for many years.

A steel hex tip the right size/length. Driven into a length of thick wall aluminum tubing, and a bolt head, threaded and locked in, for turning the shaft. By hand, or drill motor.

CCW rotation, and yeah, probably need to pre-oil the pump now, since it's empty.
 
:popcorn2:
WHY are you talking about pulling the oil pump?
I seriously doubt the oil pump caused your problem...unless you have big chunks of crap running through the engine. The starter kick-back is what busted your parts.

Get/make a 'pre-oiling shaft', that's used while the intermediate shaft is out. It has the hex end on it, to fit into the oil pump. If the oil pump turns, via that shaft, with no binding...should be good to go. Don't mistake binding, for when the pump pulls oil into itself. Yep, you'll feel a slight drag, as the pump loads up.

One part I suggest you carefully look over...your starter 'ring gear'! That's the gear, that's fastened onto your clutch pressure plate, that the starter engages to start. A chance a tooth or two might have gotten knocked off.

Later, we need to talk about your TIMING, since that is what probably caused the kick-back. Sure, that's not a positive thing. Possible 'something' broke, causing the lock-up.
Clues...spark plugs out, by hand, see what turns good on the engine, or doesn't.

Distributor points...black spot on the contacts...a possible sign, of a bad condenser.
Easy to find out, by changing it, and see how it acts!! You should always carry a spare with you, anyway.

DAMN! That was a mouthful!

LOL, sure was but I appreciate your help! Thanks! I'll check all that out before I go ahead and do the top end.
 
What a half assed, redneck, hilljack way of fixin something!
My redneck special. The short is the MP hex drive the "proper" tool. One thing you don't worry about is the hex hitting the bushing.
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....McMaster-Carr sells 5/16 hex stock in a 3-ft length for about $4......a GOOD local hardware place should too....cut it to the length you need, chuck it up in your cordless drill, drop it all the way into the pump (you'll feel it lock in) and give it a whirl counter-clockwise....see if it spins.
 
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