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How do I determine value of my '68 Charger?

danf_fl

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Location
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It is currently being brought back to good working order with some rust.
It is licensed and insured and can be driven.

If I wanted to get away from it, how would I determine the value?

I have approx. $10,000.00 in repairs and parts over the last year, and I purchased it over 20 years ago with my step father (RIP).
 
I use eBay auctions and filter by "Sold Items". That will give you an idea of what others were willing to pay for it.
 
Need pics and specs

what engine was it born with?

what does it have now?

does it need quarters?

etc
 
I have approx. $10,000.00 in repairs and parts over the last year, and I purchased it over 20 years ago

Unfortunate part of this hobby is your $10K in repairs and parts equal $0 in return. The fact that you owned it for 20 yrs and its a 68 Charger is where the value lays.
 
So, if I were to sell, what could be a good price range?
 
I look at what cars actually sell, and what they are and where they are, makes a difference. Are they RT cars or 318 cars, are they totally restored.
Sounds like maybe you have a typical car that need body/paint. Is interior perfect a or needs it all.
Chargers have been hot in a fickle collector market. I see all the ask price what counts are sales!!!! And did it take the guy 12 months to sell it or a month???
I look at what it costs in part to go from what you have to what it will actually sell for restored to what ever degree. Then the other part is labor. Will the buyer pay it done or do it himself and pay himself nothing?
If you have a machine shop rebuilt Big Block or is it a 318? Rebuilt trans? Rear end? Brake? Exhaust? Tires? Fresh Interior? Rebuilt frontend? Still needs all body work! Little stuff like U joints, gas tank sender, dash work, shocks front end?
 
List of things done:
383 rebuilt, 40 over, mild cam, 4bbl carb.
New gas tank, sender unit, rubber hoses in gas line.
New shocks (front and rear)
New rear springs
New brake cylinders
Front suspension gone over and parts replaced as needed.
No electrical problems (even directionals on hood work)
Rear end rebuilt and gears changed to 3.55
Original seats and cushions
Needs body work
Needs carpet
Needs Vintage Air A/C installed (I have kit in garage)
Points replaced with electronic module.
Door hinges repaired/replaced
Vinyl top has no worn spots or tears.
All Chrome pieces are there
Headlight actuators changed to electric
 
rules of thumb for valuation:

New parts in boxes are worth about 70% of the most discounted SRP
You have to "sell" the fact that the buyer doesn't have to pay shipping.

Engine builds are worth about 50% of the cost, maybe more if it's running and you have receipts. Maybe less if it's not running.

Body work is worth less because you don't really know how well it was done, how much was done or if it's going to come back out. You can sometimes mitigate this if it's a reputable shop and if you have before and after pics.

To me, a car with a skim coat is worth a LOT less that a car that's not ever had body work and is still 95% rust free and straight.
 
^^^^^ all so true. Here is the kicker. Guy pays Mark Worman $75000 (or more) to do the nut and bolt resto. Then later guy wants to sell but all his buyers tell him that 68 Charger RT 440 car is NOT worth what he has in it.

OR..Guy does his own work, does it right, does it flawless, then he hears the buyers say, we don't know whats under the paint! Or you painted it a color we don't want. So like said, best to have a straight rust free original survivor. You have that?? Not likely.

He is also right about the engine work. Even if you have receipts from a great shop, the buyer says, wrong am, wrong pistons, we have to do it over! etc et

Interior, I figure it at $2500 complete.

Parts in boxes, worth many 30-50% of costs.

So I have figured this over the last 3 decades and maybe 50-75 cars, some done some parts cars. many projects, many drivers.

The best time to sell an old Mopar is when it runs/drives, you have repaired all the rust, epoxy primed that, NO filler, stop there....No rebuilt engine, NO done interior.
If you did not pat too much for it as a project you can be OK or maybe even make a buck.
Us Mopar guys are fickle, the Mopar hobby is a roller coaster, us Mopar guys are cheap!!
 
I have three

The 67 wagon has it's original paint, but needs floor pans.
From a muffler coming loose and getting wrapped around the drive shaft.
Has a thin spot on the spare tire well.
Only ever had body work on one fender.
Needs a hood. Have it (and the floor pans and fender on a parts car).
Tailgate has some rust on the sides.

The 73 has one repaint and only 1/4 cup of body work at the quarter to rocker joints.
Been there 20 years. Probably not coming out any time soon.

The 66 has one repaint and never any body work.
Only needs a nickel sized hole behind the wheel patched.
(besides bolt on front fenders due to dents)

These are the kinds of cars I look for.
...and I find them.
 
I see a big red flag.Why does it have Wisconsin plates on it?
 
I have three

The 67 wagon has it's original paint, but needs floor pans.
From a muffler coming loose and getting wrapped around the drive shaft.
Has a thin spot on the spare tire well.
Only ever had body work on one fender.
Needs a hood. Have it (and the floor pans and fender on a parts car).
Tailgate has some rust on the sides.

The 73 has one repaint and only 1/4 cup of body work at the quarter to rocker joints.
Been there 20 years. Probably not coming out any time soon.

The 66 has one repaint and never any body work.
Only needs a nickel sized hole behind the wheel patched.
(besides bolt on front fenders due to dents)

These are the kinds of cars I look for.
...and I find them.

It takes looking. Back years past I did a lot of cars. These cars are just my fun now days but back then I could call some Mopar buds, local to 600 mi away, and in an hour I usually found what I was looking for, at a fair price and even less. If my friend did not have it he had a friend that did. All this was before the net BS/

I can check local ads, all are overpriced to me, NO they are not coming down, and I ask " how long has it been for sale"???? They reply can often be months, years!! Anything is worth what the buyer will pay and the seller will accept!

I have done these 66-7 B bods before. I know the POS sheetmetal available. A 68-70 B body , restored, will bring twice the price of a 66-7. So a 68-70 B project is worth at least and more than twice the price of a 66-7 project!! IMHO

I have had the itch to make a 4 door driver. Just fix the rust, leave the patina, till I get tired of that, mags, honking big block ( survivor engine, NO rebuild!), fix the front seat, take out the rear seat, Fat tire in the rear and cruise!!! Maybe a low profile hemi scoop? Found one today for $400 ,missing the grill. One call and I found a grill for $100. Feebay had some grills for $600! What do those guys smoke!!?? ha
 
img_0504-jpg.635416
 
sweet ride how are the frame rails? trunk pan?
 
I've looked at a lot of cars for sale on eBay and Craigslist , not necessarily 68 Chargers but here's the thing , have it running and driving and with as much as possible working, lights Windows Doors oil the hinges have it as showable as possible brakes work runs, idles well, everything else, the showing sells the car , he who actually shows up first is probably your best buyer , that doesn't mean you have to take his first offer, ps that post about sold listings on ebay is a good rule of thumb , well , it used to be , pretend your buying one and shop around online , to help determine the market in your part of the country
 
You search the item I find it best to do on my laptop rather than my phone it seems eBay isn't necessarily phone friendly once the item comes up with items for sale you click on the sort and the filter there's two different ones sort and filter one of them includes expired listings and sold listings and it'll show you what expired over the course of the past so much time and what has sold over the course of the past so much time sometimes you'll find some that have sold will still be available for sale meaning that sale didn't go through but it can be a wealth of knowledge if you're willing to keep clicking
 
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