Shifter hitting dash

matthon · Jul 28, 2019

When I called Brewers asking about converting a 62 to a 4 speed, iirc, they would modify that same handle by pie cutting it in the front below the boot area and welding it.

moparedtn · Jul 28, 2019

I agree with the others saying the answer lies in doing something with the stick itself - not the shifter
mechanism.
Bend it, replace it, something. Infinitely desirable to buggering up the mechanism.

SSing · Jul 28, 2019

What about the adapter plate. There are a few to chose from or even custom make one...

moparnation74 · Jul 28, 2019

lol.....Hurst doesn't list for 69 and below.... :rofl:

Keep in mind they only reproduce parts that will sell and not sit on a shelf......

Fran Blacker · Jul 28, 2019

Try the chart on this site. Some say sold doesn't mean you can't find them else where.
https://core-shifters.com/collections/hurst-sticks

NoCar2023 · Jul 28, 2019

Brewers list the same stick he is using. So what is the deal? what BOLT IN stick will work.

PRHeads · Jul 28, 2019

My 68 Satellite is an original 383-4, 4 speed car...... although the 4 speed was already gone when I got it in 1981.

I went to a bone yard and picked up everything between the crank and the dif yoke out of a 69 RR.
Factory Hurst shifter fit perfect, not even close to the dash in 1st/3rd.

I ended up having other issues, and ended up putting an auto back it for a couple years.
I put a 4 speed back in a few years later.
I had already sold that factory shifter, but a friend had a Competition Plus with the same stick as the OP.
It too was nowhere near the dash in 1st/3rd.

The pic he posted of his shifter with the boot off looks to me like the lever and shift handle “socket” is just aiming way too far forward....... indicating to me something is amiss in the shifter mechanism itself, or the rods.

With the shift rods disconnected, and the drill bit inserted into the alignment hole...... how straight up is the shift handle socket at that point?

I ended up putting an auto back in for many years as I was racing the car a lot back then.
I have since amassed a pile of parts to put it back together with a 4 speed(I had sold off all that stuff years ago), and I have a new Competition Plus shifter for it, with that same stick.
If it turns out I have a similar issue as the OP is having with the new stuff....... I’m just going to get out the torches and adjust the angle of the stick as necessary.

FWIW, the way my old Hurst CP shifter was, compared to the factory 69 Hurst shifter........ I preferred the CP version.

Here’s a thought.......
I wonder if the levers on the trans are slightly too long...... requiring the stick to travel farther.

PRHeads · Jul 28, 2019

From what I can tell by looking his pic, it “appears” he has the “correct” stick, however the C body stick is similar, but would have the ball about 5” closer to the dash.
Probably worth measuring.

PRHeads · Jul 28, 2019

While I was digging around, I came across some info I found interesting.

I’ve never been a “numbers and dates” guy.
I had my car for over 20 years before I found out it was one of 319.
Since it’s a 68, I always just assumed it would have come with an Inland shifter.
I just read that if it has the “reverse” light in the dash, it would have come with a Hurst.
Mine has the reverse light...... so, Hurst from the factory.

kiwigtx · Jul 28, 2019

The adaptor plate is the problem - doesn't work with that shift handle.

moparedtn · Jul 28, 2019

1972GY8SE said:
Brewers list the same stick he is using. So what is the deal? what BOLT IN stick will work.
View attachment 808727

This is the exact one I have (Hurst Competition/Plus):

Zero knuckle bustin' going on.

kiwigtx · Jul 28, 2019

kiwigtx said:
The adaptor plate is the problem - doesn't work with that shift handle.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=273

Product ID: SMP886
SMP886 SHIFTER MOUNTING PLATE (INLAND SHIFTER) 1966-8 B-BODY RECONDITIONED ORIGINAL

Reconditioned original shifter mounting plate for 1966-8 B-body cars with Inland shifter. Includes reconditioned mounting plate and 3 allen head mounting screws. As available.

moparedtn · Jul 28, 2019

Factory swapped over from Inland to Hurst in January 1968 from what I can research
(originally switched TO the Inland in 1966 apparently). According to Professor Ehrenberg,
the dealers got so tired of the warranty issues and complaints from owners that the switch
was made back to Hurst.

Interesting story over on Allpar about the designer of the pistol grip, too....
https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/history-of-the-hurst-pistol-grip-shifter.163812/

mopar 3 B · Jul 28, 2019

moparedtn said:
This is the exact one I have (Hurst Competition/Plus):
View attachment 808933

Zero knuckle bustin' going on.

Not sure that's a Chrysler shifter. Should it not have smaller rod link holes? I have never of the four Hurst Chrysler shifters had one with the large holes. Bushings should take care of it but with the right shifter they should not be needed. Can you post a picture of the shifter levers? Thats were I believe the real problem is.

PRHeads · Jul 28, 2019

The “Competition Plus” shifters all come with the big holes in the levers, and use the bushings.
They also come with the correct adapter plate to attach the shifter to the trans.

Whether or not the OP has all the correct stuff for the application might be another story.
And since the shift handle is hitting the dash, obviously something isn’t right.

PRHeads · Jul 28, 2019

moparedtn said:
This is the exact one I have (Hurst Competition/Plus):
View attachment 808933

Zero knuckle bustin' going on.

Any chance you could take a pick of your shifter in first gear so we can see how far forward leaning the shift handle is right as it comes out of the boot?

moparedtn · Jul 28, 2019

mopar 3 B said:
Not sure that's a Chrysler shifter. Should it not have smaller rod link holes? I have never of the four Hurst Chrysler shifters had one with the large holes. Bushings should take care of it but with the right shifter they should not be needed. Can you post a picture of the shifter levers? Thats were I believe the real problem is.

It's not. It's the same Hurst shifter you can buy right now. Application is, of course, for the non-console cars, which mine is.
Yes, it has the bushings.
Oh, I have zero issue with my shifter, sir. Not my thread.

moparedtn · Jul 28, 2019

PRHeads said:
Any chance you could take a pick of your shifter in first gear so we can see how far forward leaning the shift handle is right as it comes out of the boot?

Sure, gimme a minute...

moparedtn · Jul 28, 2019

Here's mine in 1st gear (flop-open ashtray closed). Crap generic boot installed, think it's a MrGasket or
some such:

I can just about get my fist between the handle and the dash at its' closest point.

BSB67 · Jul 28, 2019

moparedtn said:
It's not. It's the same Hurst shifter you can buy right now. Application is, of course, for the non-console cars, which mine is.
Yes, it has the bushings.
Oh, I have zero issue with my shifter, sir. Not my thread.

I don't think there is a difference in shifters between console and non console cars, is there?

Shifter hitting dash

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