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New guy from Maryland

Tintoy35

Well-Known Member
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Location
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1st post 1964 Belvedere 400 stroke to 451 cu. Dana with 4.56 and Cal Traks I am thinking the 60 ft is slow. Took off regular gas shocks (worn out) and installed Viking doubles on the front. Any thoughts?

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Welcome aboard from Ohio. What the heck is wrong with a 1.30? Sounds like working pretty good.
 
1.39 I trying for something around 1.30 to 1.35
 
Sounds like it is easily doable. Practice and a little tweaking here and there, you will be fine. Welcome aboard from Alabama.
 
I put new Mickeys 10.5 on it. Has 7 passes on them. Maybe they haven't come around yet. Hopefully I can get lower 60s with the new shocks
 
IMO I think that you're doing well. You could see some 1.38's but you're doing good as it is. What kind of HP are you making, car weight and are you on split mono leafs?
 
Nice Car! Your time slip looks correct for 60ft, 1/8, and 1/4 for that ET. Enjoy the car.
 
2800 lbs last year with 6 point roll bar. Added front half to make it a 12 point. Shipping weight was 150 lbs. Haven't weighed yet this year. Dyno sheets showed 610 hp. Yes to the split springs.
 
2800 lbs last year with 6 point roll bar. Added front half to make it a 12 point. Shipping weight was 150 lbs. Haven't weighed yet this year. Dyno sheets showed 610 hp. Yes to the split springs.
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That's a pretty light car. Lots taken out of it.
The best I got for 60' on split mono's was a .138 60, not consistently.
 
Fiberglass doors,front end and trunk lid. Will be doing test and tune soon. Will see if the new shocks help any.
 
Fiberglass doors,front end and trunk lid. Will be doing test and tune soon. Will see if the new shocks help any.
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I'd suggest to have someone take some video of your car launches. Slow motion works good to see what's going on. Good luck.
 
That 60ft is about right for that ET. The only way your going to get to 1.30 at that power to weight is a very steep gear and loose converter like a stock eliminator car. Takes power to get the 60ft that quick. The only way to add power is to multiply what you currently have through gear ratio and converter. That will likely put your combo rpm higher than you like in the traps.
Doug
 
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I'd suggest to have someone take some video of your car launches. Slow motion works good to see what's going on. Good luck.
I am trying to get a friend go along to do that. Thanks
 
That 60ft is about right for that ET. The only way your going to get to 1.30 at that power to weight is a very steep gear and loose converter like a stock eliminator car. Takes power to get the 60ft that quick. The only way to add power is to multiply what you currently have through gear ratio and converter. That will likely put your combo rpm higher than you like in the traps.
Doug
Just slowly looking it over to see if I missed anything. So the 60 ft will be what it is and you're right about not wanting anymore trap rpm. Never been told to stop looking for more of anything. Had my 3300lb 35 Plymouth with a 400 running 10.60 to 10.80 with 1.43 -1.45 60s
 
Just slowly looking it over to see if I missed anything. So the 60 ft will be what it is and you're right about not wanting anymore trap rpm. Never been told to stop looking for more of anything. Had my 3300lb 35 Plymouth with a 400 running 10.60 to 10.80 with 1.43 -1.45 60s
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Going with a lower gear set in your trans will help the 60' a little and not effect your trap RPMs, high gear remains 1 to 1. Sometimes when a guy is looking for more he can more than just a lower 60' In my experience, on the hunt to find more - split mono leafs and cal tracs are going to need to have dble acting shocks all the way around and the rears will need to be "good good" ones that will hold the rear diff from jumping out from under. Controlling the rear shock rebound becomes a chore, and the more you throw at it, the harder it gets to control. In my experience. Front shock rebound also becomes important too as you find more.
When I first looked at your time slip it looked pretty darned good to me given your HP.
Good luck!
 
welcome from az looks like we have another race member. car looks great and good luck
 
everyone pretty much covered it

nice car by the way :thumbsup:

edited added; pretty damn good for only 451cid too

lower gears set in the trans is a great idea
so is lower final gear ratio & looser converter
(if you can taller tire, more roll out bigger footprint, if you go to a steeper gear/looser converter)
lighter rims/wheels & tires can help too
(draglites are pretty light for mass produce wheels)
lighter driveshaft etc. etc. etc.

weight reduction is great for many reasons
less weight more power to weight ratio :rolleyes:
especially rotating mass
your car seems to be pretty light already

changing out some hardware for alum. or titanium hardware
albeit a PITA, sometimes a bit pricey too

Lexan windows ?
remove the window mech.s' etc.
carpeting ?

any areas you can remove or drill metal to reduce more weight
you can always add ballast to wear you need it afterwards

race at lower elevations, better air, hopefully better track too :poke:

more then one way to skin a cat

every little bit helps

try messing around with the numbers with a few calculators
below, before you spend a bunch of $$$
try
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

you're pretty much at where you should be now,
car works well it seems

good luck
 
Last edited:
Mine weighs 3340-3500 depending on ballast. When it is backed down to 9.25 60ft ranges 1.29-1.32 depending on track prep.
At full power (9.0x) 1.25-1.28. Thats a ton of power to weight to gain .04 in 60ft. Same chassis,gear, tire. Look where the starting line is in this picture.
Doug

Clay city wheelie.jpg
 
Mine weighs 3340-3500 depending on ballast. When it is backed down to 9.25 60ft ranges 1.29-1.32 depending on track prep.
At full power (9.0x) 1.25-1.28. Thats a ton of power to weight to gain .04 in 60ft. Same chassis,gear, tire. Look where the starting line is in this picture.
Doug

View attachment 811407
Beautiful car and lua
 
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