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1962 Savoy valuation question

ollieM

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Hello folks, I just joined as I am contemplating a 62 savoy with a non original, non running 413 of unknown quality in it and with rusted out floors. The car is pretty complete and been kept indoors but a major project. Does anyone have any sort of idea the approximate value so I don't overpay for it?!
I don't think the owner has a title for it. I was just costing out new floors and a cage for it and trying to decide if I want to take yet another car project on...

thanks!
 
Based only on my personal experience, I would mention a couple things to keep in mind:

1) I'm a recent seller of one, which was a roller with recent driver quality paint and floors that were pretty decent to begin with, but had been repaired, and had very nice frame rails. A potential buyer presented me with a copy of an Old Cars Price Guide, which suggested a fully restored one (non-max wedge) was worth less than $10K. So you have those who are thinking Barret-Jackson pricing on anything old vs those who refer to a price guide which appears to be slightly out of touch. As a buyer, you could try the price guide approach, which showed what I think were dirt cheap prices for the 62's.

2) You probably know this, but just in case: Watch for cowl rust, trunk lid rust and door rust. Trunk lids are very hard to find, and very hard to repair. Doors are just as hard to find, but not quite as hard to repair. Hoods can have similar problems, but don't seem as hard to find. Cowl rust, not much fun.

3) Side trim for Savoy's I've found to be very hard to find. The more complete the trim is the better off you are.

4) Front bench seats are tough to find, should you be thinking of a stock style interior. Nice outer head light trim rings are tough to find.

5) The steel shells for the interior door panels, particularly the rear ones, are tough to find.

6) Nothing wrong with 413's. In fact I started using them years ago because everyone was looking for 426 blocks. From a value point of view though, a run of the mill 413 does not carry much value. You can still buy a running 413 for under $500 without much trouble. I bought a very low mile motor home 413 for $200.00. Of course I had to toss the heads, intake, water pump setup, etc, but still got a really clean 413 short block on the cheap. Closed chamber heads with compensate for the pistons on a street engine ok.
 
ollieM, I'm not a big fan of rust of any kind.But I'm not a body guy. Dealing with early B bodies, I'll throw out a price of $1500 to maybe $3000.Again depends on just how complete the car really is.Question, 2 or 4 door ? I bought my 65 2 door post for $3000. It was complete down to the hubcaps.Slant 6, 3 speed and it did run and drive.
Sounds like you may be thinking of making a race car out of it since you mentioned a cage.
If you give us a bit more info on the car and your plans for it we can evaluate it better.
 
Thanks all for the advice! Right now the car is up on a lift so I've had a good look underneath - it now has v8 k member for the 413 but was originally a s6 car, and I've been up a ladder to see body. (There's another car underneath right now). The front trim is in the trunk and inaccessible - as soon as its on the ground I'll take a lot of photos probably end of week. Body rust looks minimal and manageable and I see trashed bench seats. It's a 2 door car and has trunk lid and hood, body looks straight. Missing trim is a worry for sure, will have to do a check to see how complete the car actually is...
 
Most of the time the missing pieces cost more than the car.
 
Welcome Ollie !

So you found a rusted '62 in California. How does that happen? I looked for my car on the west coast so it might be free from rust and it is. Not having any metal replacement is more than half the battle especially if you don't like bodywork.

If the one you are looking at needs floors and not frame work, it can be worth doing. Needing frame work will be much more time consuming and I'm not sure how obtainable frame pieces are unless you have a donor car.

If it's a post car it's more desirable as it was the choice for the ones who raced them back in the day. Pics will be better to give you an idea on what it's worth.

Check frames front and back and the cross member. Check the firewall and cowling. The cowling will rust right through into the passenger compartment or out through the firewall or both. No parts available there. Look up under the dash for signs of rust through.

How easy is it to obtain a title if there isn't one? Could be a deal breaker if it's a hassle to get legal ownership. You want that before spending any money.
 
Ocean salt water mist. You would be surprised at how many cars roofs rust out there.
 
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Ocean salt water mist. You would be surprised at how many cars roofs rust out here.
That thought intered my mind, living close to the ocean. My '62 was sold new in Sacramento and had Oregon plates on it from 1980. You think Oregon would have worked on the sheet metal but it didn't.
 
Eastern Oregon is what is called High Desert. Pretty dry.
 
It was actually a Texas car that the current owner shipped to northern California. I'm assuming its been out of the salt and rain most of it's life but everyone's comments are incredibly useful for when I see it again this weekend, much appreciated!
 
really inspect the car and be prepared to have to deal with any damage or rot it has, or be ready to walk away if it isn't the right project for you.

it could easily be a perfect a project car for you but sometimes people get caught up in the excitement and ignore issues they don't want to (or wont be able to ) properly address once they end up with said car

if this car is for you to enjoy as a personal car semi long term, don't pay more than $4000 probably

if you want to make money flipping it, then pay less than $2000

as someone said earlier you will likely spend a lot of additional money very quickly tracking down the missing parts... so that must be figured in if your trying to keep this under a certain budget

its supposed to be a rewarding process so, IMO, don't worry too much about the final value on the car or stuff like that, just have fun with it and don't break the bank.

I'm a big fan of the 62 Plymouth and Dodge body styles.
 
really inspect the car and be prepared to have to deal with any damage or rot it has, or be ready to walk away if it isn't the right project for you.

it could easily be a perfect a project car for you but sometimes people get caught up in the excitement and ignore issues they don't want to (or wont be able to ) properly address once they end up with said car

if this car is for you to enjoy as a personal car semi long term, don't pay more than $4000 probably

if you want to make money flipping it, then pay less than $2000

as someone said earlier you will likely spend a lot of additional money very quickly tracking down the missing parts... so that must be figured in if your trying to keep this under a certain budget

its supposed to be a rewarding process so, IMO, don't worry too much about the final value on the car or stuff like that, just have fun with it and don't break the bank.

I'm a big fan of the 62 Plymouth and Dodge body styles.


I originally bought this for $600,Kansas/Nebraska car 100% rust free,18,250 miles at the time,6 cyl stick.

Picture 137.jpg Picture 138.jpg

Turned it into this,love the 62's ! Bill,s 62 wgn 067.jpg
 
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