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Gentlemen question on PCV system.

BigFury66

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Background, just recently finished a 505 stroker in my Fury. I had decided to setup a PCV system but noticed something funny.... Ever since I installed it, my exhaust note/lope/rumble and all has decreased big time? Could I be taking away to much air from the carb and thata what's causing this? My setup at first went PCV to carb port and the other valve cover had a breather valve on it to allow air flow into the motor...

My new setup is pretty much the same other than I have it running to a canister with a breather on top and then back to the carb. My carb setup as of right now is a Holley 770 Street avenger( plans next summer is a electric pump, 1050 carb and fuel cell). Before this it was running lean and my plans this week was to work on that issue but just concerned about this newest issue.

I have read so many different articles on PCV systems and why you should, why you have to and those who say you don't. My setup prior was just to breathers one on each cover. Anyways, thanks in advance for the information heading my way;)
-Dan
 
I run a PCV system on my street car with my 440/493 eng. I prefer to run a PCV system on street cars as long as its enough vacuum to use it. It helps keep blowby out of the crankcase and helps keep moisture from building up in the eng. Now if you were running lean and put a PCV setup on then you will be even leaner to a point as the PCV is basically a controlled vacuum leak. I have my carb adjusted so my PCV never made my eng sound any different. I would make sure you have the carb right so its not lean but also not to rich and see how it sounds then. I race my car sometimes but its a 99% street car and I definetly prefer to run a PCV setup on my street car. The PCV valve you can sorta see in the pass valve cover and the hose on the drivers side breather is open as it just joes over to the inner fenderwell as I did not want to spit any oil on the valve cover when racing since the PCV don't work at full throttle with no vacuum. But it actually don't spit any oil anyway. Ron

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PVC should always be on a street engine. The trouble is that a stock PCV was engineered to operate correctly with a stock engine, to make matters worse, aftermarket PCV valves are pretty generic. I run an adjustable valve like moparlore recommended you check out and they work well. You can take a look here: http://mewagner.com/
 
My .02, is your lope/lack of is due to the air leak (lean) as stated above. Did you notice a higher idle rpm? I'm Still tuning on my 512, but I'm using the wagner valve, and a moroso inline catch can. This things pulling crazy vacuum when the carb slams closed. I think the baffles in the valve covers are wrong as well letting oil slosh get pulled up into the valve. At this point im just glad I'm no longer pulling oil into the intake...

IMG_7219.JPG
 
Yep I did, I'm going to take it off for now and call those guys on their PCV that everyone has recommended. It was lean to begin with and could only be worse with the current setup. For now, it only hits the streets here and there and isn't put much bc of how much ive been working lately. Thanks guys for all the info;)
My .02, is your lope/lack of is due to the air leak (lean) as stated above. Did you notice a higher idle rpm? I'm Still tuning on my 512, but I'm using the wagner valve, and a moroso inline catch can. This things pulling crazy vacuum when the carb slams closed. I think the baffles in the valve covers are wrong as well letting oil slosh get pulled up into the valve. At this point im just glad I'm no longer pulling oil into the intake...
 
I got the :lowdown:M/E WAGNER PCV as recommended on this forum. Loved it so much, I got one for the 421 Tripower in my wife's GTO!
 
Nice! Well update, I took off the PCV setup I have, placed everything back the way it was and she was fine! I'll be ordering one in the morning;) Side note, was having bogging or what felt to be lack of fuel when dropping the hammer. The primary jets were 69 and I went up to 75 ( mainly because all I had was 72/75 and up). Increased the cam to brown (one size up) and off the line what a difference!

Now, when the secondarys open ( vaccum), there's a whistle or the sound as if is sucking wind/ starving for fuel. The carb is a 770 Holley ultra street avenger and I'm currently not running vaccum advance. So I'm thinking that I just just bump the jets up to the same number as the primary or 2 above? Also I know I could change the spring pressure as well but should make one change at a time.

Just more background, also running a mopar M1 high rise single plan manifold with a rebuilt 727 upgraded 24 spline backed to a Detroit 3:91 gears. As always, thanks for the information.
Dan

(Update): The primary/secondary floats are okay and just above the bottom line. I had been running very lean prior to the change on my spark plug wires and plugs are recommended from Trick Flow and gapped 0.4. Spark provided by MSD coil, Accel bullit distributor with MSD wires.
 
Jets need more than a 2 size spread (unless you've blocked the power valve?) Typically 7-8 sizes but the 'ultra' street avenger has I believe 10-12 size difference from the factory! Keep the jet spread close to the same as Holley did.
A 505? It wants that bigger carb you have planned IMO.
 
Yep agree, she will be outfitted with a 1050 E85 either EFI or Carb next yr before summer. I'll also plan on running a fuel cell & electric pump. Going out in Nov for more back surgery and with 2 small

(Update): So the secondary jets where 76 so went up to 80, she pulled a lot harder with zero hesitation. I forgot to look at my power valve as well, but assuming the primary jets were 69 (stock size I believe) and the secondarys being 76 I'm assuming the power valve is higher because of the smaller primary jets. I'll probaly pull the bowl off later bc now I want to know ;)

kids, well Santa still needs to show up as usual ;)
Jets need more than a 2 size spread (unless you've blocked the power valve?) Typically 7-8 sizes but the 'ultra' street avenger has I believe 10-12 size difference from the factory! Keep the jet spread close to the same as Holley did.
A 505? It wants that bigger carb you have planned IMO.
 
Update: Changed secondarys to 80s from 76, made a Heck of a difference. Then I thought to myself, more should better lol. Well I didn't change a thing because I knew I already needed a bigg carb ;) So on the fence about either EFI, mechanical secondaries or vacuum secondaries.. I know most use mechanical for stick/race applications, but I'm on the fence line because I run the streets but also want to take her to the track.

Then that leaves us with EFI.. EFI would be a lot less hassle but who really knows how well its supporting the HP needs I want. I know you have multiple options (horsepower ranges) to pick from. Any thoughts guys.
Dan
 
A carb setup correctly will run very good. I subscribe to "an old car should run/drive like an old car". That said, EFI will be better every time. A carb cannot meter like an O2 sensor can. Its not about being able to support the HP. That's the simple air/fuel formula. the EFI's increase size/fuel output at the different HP ratings. Its about the efficiency/infinite tuneability of/by the computer that cannot be beat by a carb. BTW, I uploaded a quick pic of my setup for reference.
 
Much good info here.As of now I have 2 breathers going into 2 catch cans.A vacume pump is on my bucket list when I can afford the $900ish cost.
I will add that even with a PVC you must be certain that NO OIL is being pulled into the combustion chamber as it will cause instant detonation:poke::)
 
My .02, is your lope/lack of is due to the air leak (lean) as stated above. Did you notice a higher idle rpm? I'm Still tuning on my 512, but I'm using the wagner valve, and a moroso inline catch can. This things pulling crazy vacuum when the carb slams closed. I think the baffles in the valve covers are wrong as well letting oil slosh get pulled up into the valve. At this point im just glad I'm no longer pulling oil into the intake...

View attachment 814292

I looked at Moroso catch cans. Can you give details about the can? I only see catch cans for modern cars. Thanks
 
EFI is nice, just be prepared to re-work the entire fuel system. Research the choices thoroughly to understand all the costs and work involved in making the switch.. the 3x2 EFI setup is the most enticing to me..
 
the 3x2 EFI setup is the most enticing to me.
Since I have a 440 6bbl in my V-code Roadrunner, and I am absolutely going to always have 3x2 of "something" atop whatever engine is in it (stroker motor plans) I agree. If not for having invested $1,400 in parts, labor, and "pretuning" my 3 Holley 2bbl carbs with Promax, and if I would have found out about the FiTech 3x2 system 2 weeks earlier than I did, that would likely be on my 440 now.
After some really aggravating problems with the carbs when I got them back from Promax (turned out to be steel braid shards in the metering block from the fuel lines I changed to at the same time, new lines from Promax that I didn't flush out) the carbs are working good, and with the dual O2 sensor system I have, all I need now is time to tune.
The 600 horsepower rating on the FiTech would suit my current needs with headroom, but the stroker motor I have planned would take it to its limit, so I am looking at the much more flexible but also much more expensive F&B direct port injection system with 3x2 throttle bodies.
I hope that the Promax modded Holley carbs will suit my needs now and in the future, that would be the best outcome.
 
Since I have a 440 6bbl in my V-code Roadrunner, and I am absolutely going to always have 3x2 of "something" atop whatever engine is in it (stroker motor plans) I agree. If not for having invested $1,400 in parts, labor, and "pretuning" my 3 Holley 2bbl carbs with Promax, and if I would have found out about the FiTech 3x2 system 2 weeks earlier than I did, that would likely be on my 440 now.
After some really aggravating problems with the carbs when I got them back from Promax (turned out to be steel braid shards in the metering block from the fuel lines I changed to at the same time, new lines from Promax that I didn't flush out) the carbs are working good, and with the dual O2 sensor system I have, all I need now is time to tune.
The 600 horsepower rating on the FiTech would suit my current needs with headroom, but the stroker motor I have planned would take it to its limit, so I am looking at the much more flexible but also much more expensive F&B direct port injection system with 3x2 throttle bodies.
I hope that the Promax modded Holley carbs will suit my needs now and in the future, that would be the best outcome.
Thanks Bio, you know where I'm coming from! And to your V-code 'Runner living the life it's living--:lowdown:
 
I looked at Moroso catch cans. Can you give details about the can? I only see catch cans for modern cars. Thanks
I'll have to do some digging, they sell a plethora of mounts. And yes, they are for "newer" cars. I'm 99% sure the mount I found for mine was (gasp) for a mustang. I'm out of town until next week, but can get a better picture and hopefully the invoice with a part number for you. The one I ordered uses a single nut to mount to the shock stud. no drilling on a freshly painted inner fender. if you go to Moroso's website, you can browse pics of the different mounting brackets.
 
All great info, I would want and need a 800 plus setup for future HP gains. I know with the possible running of NOS the wet setup is the way to go via carb vs dry setups with EFI. I also was planning on running a E85 setup which I only seen via carburation.
 
Jdakrt thanks. I was thinking the can had to be for another car
 
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