• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

tires -n- tubes

pwDave

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:33 PM
Joined
Apr 17, 2015
Messages
282
Reaction score
227
Location
Philpot Ky
Has anyone ever glued their tires on the rim instead of drilling holes in them for screws? if so did it work? I went to the track fri. nite and slipped a tire and sheared the valve stem off my left tube, I am looking for an alternet way of attaching the tire to the rim to keep it from slipping. Car is pushing to the right a little off the line, I'm thinking preload the cal-tracs on the right side a little more to help with that??? Car walks to the left in the water box??? first time out, 30 plus years. Dave.
 
Has anyone ever glued their tires on the rim instead of drilling holes in them for screws? if so did it work? I went to the track fri. nite and slipped a tire and sheared the valve stem off my left tube, I am looking for an alternet way of attaching the tire to the rim to keep it from slipping. Car is pushing to the right a little off the line, I'm thinking preload the cal-tracs on the right side a little more to help with that??? Car walks to the left in the water box??? first time out, 30 plus years. Dave.
---
Yes, DVW glues his. No screws. He's around here daily and will chime in I'm sure.
 
My current setup has no screws. 10" wheel, 11.5 x 28.5 slick no tubes. No glue, but spray adhesive inside tire. Inflate to 20 PSI, 2 runs, reverse tires side to side. 2 more runs. Set haven't moved. 10.5's, 1.44 60'. Hope to hear what glue could be used.
 
Tubes equals screws.
No tubes equals glue.
I would never run a tube without screws.
It's a problem waiting to happen.
 
Obviously people who think it wont work havent tried it. I run tubes with no screws. Permetex Form a Gasket purple gasket sealer. 115 passes on current tires. 1.26-1.30 60ft depending on ballast. One tire has moved maybe 2 1/2" in that time. The other hasn't moved at all. Make sure you clean the tire lube off the bead and wheel real well before airing them up. Lots of baby powder inside the tire around the tube.
Doug
 
I think I'll buy another set of tubes and try again, I did not use any kind of adhesive on them this time which was obviously a mistake. the locals here use a stuff called loc-tite hi-tack, so I think I'll give it a try. on a side note, is there any place that sells american made brake parts anymore, all the napa brake parts I've been buying lately are made in chinee, sure would be nice to find a source for USA parts. Dave.
 
Thanks DVW, I don't see any reason why It won't work. I'll follow your advice. thanks again. Dave.
 
Mine are glued. Although I run ProBracket Radials now, My last set were ET Drags with tubes. Both sets have been glued. I use High-Tack. Both sets have moved about a half an inch initially, then stayed put after the first few runs.

Obviously, I don’t hit my tires as hard as many here do, but I do throw a lot of weight into the equation, so I think my results are relevant.
 
I run no tubes or glue. But I run Hoosier radial 30 x 9 slicks. They moved a little at first and then don't seem to move any more. Been running mine like that about 10 years and I drive on the street with them also. Ron
 
Its actually been as quick as 1.240
Doug
 
Tubes equals screws.
No tubes equals glue.
I would never run a tube without screws.
It's a problem waiting to happen.
I'm also curious about the type of wheels and tires you're screwing. I have a drag meeting in less than 6 weeks, and I have a lot to get sorted....right after I clean my fish tanks. :)
 
Back in the day, I did run 15x10 Keystones, 11.5 W x 29.5, no screws, race long stem tubes many hundred runs. They moved some sometimes, sometimes not at all. Drilled my Center Lines w/tubes, no movement. 3500# 10.90's w/Keystones, 10.60's w/Center Lines.
 
Got everything mounted up and back on the car. 13.50x31 hoosiers. glued on with the hi-tac stuff, the car will sit for a month or so while I wait for CRT to get my tranny built, so the sticky stuff should have time to set up. did manage to clock a 7.14 on the first pass with high gear slipping, hopefully things will be some better with a better transmixer, from what I have heard CRT is as good as they get. my youngest son made me get all the up grades to make it as safe as is possible for a TF. still going to see if I can squeeze a blanket on it for good measure. Dave.
 
I did finally tear a tube. But I dont believe it came from tire slip. The adapter that holds the valve stem came loose. Tire went flat. I just aired it up after tightening the adapter and all was good. Or so I thought. Apparently it pinched and folded the tube when it was setting flat. I should have jacked it up before filling it. I can tell you when the tube is folded inside the tire it gives you one hell of a vibration in the burnout box. It never lost any pressure until the burnout. So my assumption is that's when it tore.
Doug
 
Doug, I guess I was lucky a while back then, my wyfe was checking tire pressure and took the cap off only to find the entire upper portion of the stem in her hand, before she could get it screwed back on the tire was flat. we got the little air compresser out and aired it back up with apparently no damage<(was not the flat), so hoping that that part of my learning curve is over. thanks for the hint about jacking the car up first. Dave.
 
Doug, I guess I was lucky a while back then, my wyfe was checking tire pressure and took the cap off only to find the entire upper portion of the stem in her hand, before she could get it screwed back on the tire was flat. we got the little air compresser out and aired it back up with apparently no damage<(was not the flat), so hoping that that part of my learning curve is over. thanks for the hint about jacking the car up first. Dave.

pwDave, just curious, what upgrades did you add from CRT? Always trying understand what others are doing. BTW your PM box is full. Bill
 
66, I got the billet front drum, the cope valve body, the race (red?) bands and clutches, the reinforced apply lever or strut whichever it is, I got all that was offered except the front pump thingie, john said he was out of parts to build that one, rear roller support, ultimate sprag and the five pinion steel planet and best of all,,, he did NOT try to talk me into putting a cheby transmission into my beloved Plymouth. Dave.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top