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New rebuild tune up

Mike Szadaj

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Mostly stock 440. Bored 30 over, 906 heads, mild cam, dual points distributor, Carter avs carb. Engine starts easily with timing greater than 15' BTDC, has a stutter at idle speed. Cannot get the timing to TDC before it stalls. Dwell at 35', book says 37 -40. Car has not been on the road since the rebuild. Distributor has lighter than stock advance springs. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Not sure of the specs on your 'mild cam' but forget about timing it anywhere near TDC....that's a no-go on today's gas. Gotta throw out that old factory 5° BTDC spec.
 
That wouldn't account for the timing problem

I got the engine with the damper mark at TDC and piston #1 at TDC.
Always a good idea to find true TDC with a piston stop, to verify the zero mark on the damper is sitting at actual piston TDC..(my nice laser-engraved one piece damper is one mark off--2 degrees--not bad but it's accounted for).
Advance your distributor with a vacuum gauge hooked to manifold vacuum and where the reading just starts to level off, that's where you set your initial timing. RPM should increase to that point also. Then, the dance begins...tuning the carb.
 
The spec is actually TDC with manual trans. What is the accepted range of timing then?
Initial these days, anywhere from 12 to 24 is very typical, depending of course on the build. You just have to then limit the total to an acceptable amount, somewhere in the 34-38 range. Once you start digging up threads on this subject you'll see the phrase "give the engine what it wants" mentioned repeatedly, for good reason. A lot of factors go into determining timing needs and it's different for every engine.
 
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Well here's my 2 cents. Years ago I had a '72 vintage stock low-squeeze 440 with stock 906 heads added, an old Offenhauser Dual-Port intake (read up on that part, they worked!), 1 3/4" headers, and a 750 Holley vacuum secondary carb with an antique and very mild Sig Erson Hi-Flow 1 cam. Used a Mopar electronic distributor, Accel Super Coil, and an MSD 6C (same as today's MSD 6). Plugs gapped at .045", 18 degrees initial timing, with an additional 16 mechanical, no vacuum advance at all. It had incredible throttle response for a low compression motor. Not a giant killer by any means, but still lots of fun. Would be handy to know your static compression ratio. IF you have 9:1 compression or less, and IF your "mild" cam has less than 235 degrees duration @ .050" using a combo like this will work. Beanhead is right about TDC, ancient history to try a combo of that nature these days with the gas we buy. Never forget the fuel composition is vastly different now than what that motor used in its day. Also, the point distributor can't possibly keep pace with today's multi-spark ignitions. A good MSD-type ignition with a hot coil is the ticket. Anything to fire the mixture as completely as possible makes power. Making high dynamic (running) compression is the key to making power. If that can't be done using a high static compression ratio, then we must rely on any method to "ram" the mixture in to the combustion chamber to attain it. That's why we use dual-plane intakes and small primary tube headers. If your run, say, 9:1 squeeze, then any cam with more than around 240 degrees @ .050 duration will bleed off so much cylinder pressure at lower rpm that it can't make power. My though is if you need to run less than 9.8:1 compression do all you can to build big pressure at low rpm.
 
I can't put my fingers on the spec card at the moment, but it is a Comp Cams CRB XE262H-10. I believe the duration is 262/270 and lift is 462, 470.
So it sounds as if a timing light is an obsolete piece of equipment.
 
Advertised duration on that cam is 262/270, but is 218/224 @ .050", with .462"/.470" lift from what I see on Summit's site. Made for low end torque going by the low duration and higher lift. This type of cam tries to do what I had mentioned: get the dynamic compression up at low rpm for torque. This cam choice is for an engine combo that is aiming for low end torque, whether it's low or higher static compression. You can still do a lot with a timing light, especially the type that has the adjusting knob and scale built onto the light. Most all of us don't have distributor machines available to us, so the timing light is the tool of choice. I would bolt on a good dual-plane manifold, and absolutely use the aforementioned ignition recommendations too. Headers always help if that's in your game plan, with a 2.5" free-flowing exhaust. That engine needs to be able to fart as good as it breaths. Like most big-cube engines, this one will respond well to anything that shoves more air and fuel in. Also, don't overlook the valve springs (especially if they're original). They'll be taxed by that kind of lift if they're old.
 
These guys give good advice. My motor runs best in the 12-14 degree initial advance range....don't use the factory specifications. My motor gets a "stutter at idle" when a plug wire slips off slightly (I've had this issue for years, especially after I install new wires). Your 15 degree initial advance might be a little high, but it's not "crazy" by any means.
 
Thanks for all the great advice and info, guys. I am trying to get the car on the road for Woodward Dream Cruise (8/17), so I am looking to just to get it to run right now. Any big changes like a intake swap would have to wait. The valve springs are brand new and stiff.
Thanks again.
Mike
 
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