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Old tricks to determine if Cam has been upgraded

going to pick a part monday and could grab one for U if you still need it- been out of town
 
going to pick a part monday and could grab one for U if you still need it- been out of town
You mean the ballast resistor? I have a couple I’ve picked up at the junk yard myself but I appreciate the offer! Is your yard open Monday? I’m actually jealous. I’ve got the day off and my ram needs new fenders haha
 
Well you've tracked the problem down to #8 cylinder. Try a new spark plug in #8 cylinder. Maybe you cracked it putting it in. If you have a spare plug wire around...give that a try too. Worth a shot anyway.

Is it a "Pro Comp" HEI ? I've read and heard that a lot of their products are crap.
 
@Tim Chavez ....did you ever get this fingered out? Interested to hear what the problem was..
 
@Tim Chavez ....did you ever get this fingered out? Interested to hear what the problem was..
Bringing the dead posts back from the grave there bean! It just a friendly reminder of why our little community is the best. I doubt I’d ever see someone concerned about a post that’s not theirs over a year later on any other forums I use! So thank you for asking!!
The meat of the answer is kind of haha. I figured out 8 wasn’t firing because of a break in the new wire, so when I would test it it had contact because I was moving the wire around but in the cylinder no contact. With all 8 firing it still didn’t want to idle. I took a part the carb with a neighbor who’s played with old chevys his whole life and he told me that my carb was just dumping fuel into the engine because it had giant jets in the primary’s and secondary’s. We also figured out that the adapter that was being used was essentially turning my dual plain manifold into a single plain. My neighbor told me it seems like the previous owner was just throwing whatever parts he had in his toolbox to try and make it faster.
So Now with the correct carb adapter, smaller carb jets, New plugs, new wire on 8 it’s got a much smoother idle. But still likes to give me a hard time on cold starts. I had to pull my cummins apart this winter so the charger has got little love this year so far
 
Bringing the dead posts back from the grave there bean! It just a friendly reminder of why our little community is the best. I doubt I’d ever see someone concerned about a post that’s not theirs over a year later on any other forums I use! So thank you for asking!!
The meat of the answer is kind of haha. I figured out 8 wasn’t firing because of a break in the new wire, so when I would test it it had contact because I was moving the wire around but in the cylinder no contact. With all 8 firing it still didn’t want to idle. I took a part the carb with a neighbor who’s played with old chevys his whole life and he told me that my carb was just dumping fuel into the engine because it had giant jets in the primary’s and secondary’s. We also figured out that the adapter that was being used was essentially turning my dual plain manifold into a single plain. My neighbor told me it seems like the previous owner was just throwing whatever parts he had in his toolbox to try and make it faster.
So Now with the correct carb adapter, smaller carb jets, New plugs, new wire on 8 it’s got a much smoother idle. But still likes to give me a hard time on cold starts. I had to pull my cummins apart this winter so the charger has got little love this year so far
Yeah it's an old thread, I came across it doing a search and the suspense got to me haha! Thanks
 
just use half inch oil proof hose- there is less than 50 lbs back pressure with 3/8 and stock in radiator cooler
about 15 lbs with big aftermarket cooler and radiator eliminated and half inch lines
and much more flow
I drill and up the thread size for the fittings in the case also
 
just use half inch oil proof hose- there is less than 50 lbs back pressure with 3/8 and stock in radiator cooler
about 15 lbs with big aftermarket cooler and radiator eliminated and half inch lines
and much more flow
I drill and up the thread size for the fittings in the case also
youve got me interested wyrm. are you saying i can just replace the hardlines with barb fittings and use rubber hose?
what size fittings should i get? can i do this without drilling out the trans case?
 
I drill the trans case if you are rebuilding the trans
you can see where the passage is to the mainshaft
else just go one size larger on the fittings or drill slightly the stock fittings (remove and put in vice or drill press
yes just use "oil proof" hose from any hose/ industrial supply hose dealer- HP hose not needed and route away from exhaust and moving / sharp parts
those sharp mandrel bends to tubing are real flow bottlenecks
if in the car
 
Yes like the man Wyrm says rubber is fine but yes PLEASE keep them secured away from any possible contact with exhaust surfaces...a friend's nice restored Cougar burned to the ground from a trans fluid fire. I had a near disaster during engine break in from rubber oil gauge line getting a teenytiny pinhole burned in it and spraying motor oil on the header. Yes, oils don't "burn" in the way we think but when they get mixed with any air and hit a hot surface -poof- instant inferno!
 
Long day in the she but very successful! New Cooler lines are in, water pump gasket has been replaced and she’s no longer leaky!
 
Yes like the man Wyrm says rubber is fine but yes PLEASE keep them secured away from any possible contact with exhaust surfaces...a friend's nice restored Cougar burned to the ground from a trans fluid fire. I had a near disaster during engine break in from rubber oil gauge line getting a teenytiny pinhole burned in it and spraying motor oil on the header. Yes, oils don't "burn" in the way we think but when they get mixed with any air and hit a hot surface -poof- instant inferno!
Should I only worry about contact? Or is proximity also a concern? The rear line ise only about 6 inches from the collector. It ziptied away so it can’t contact. Would this be a concern?
 
Should I only worry about contact? Or is proximity also a concern? The rear line ise only about 6 inches from the collector. It ziptied away so it can’t contact. Would this be a concern?
6" space is plenty...that's more than I have! What I also do, for extra protection is wrap some of that adhesive heat-wrap tape around anything that's close to the exhaust. Fuel line, trans cooler and even a wrap around my shifter cable. I prefer the thicker cloth-type stuff, that comes in a roll and is about 1-1/2" wide. A ziptie around it here and there helps keep it from coming off over time.
 
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