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New bullet for the "Brick"

While I'm waiting on machine work -

The rear windows havent been rolled down in years and they were stuck. I like to brag that "everything" works on this car so I got to work fixin it. The cat whiskers are original so I am replacing them along with the roof rail weather strip. All the window needed was lubrication and adjustment, The inner whiskers for the quarter windows are stapled on - no way that's gonna happen so I riveted then on.

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The outer whisker was a bitch because the clip holes were in the wrong places and the lip was buggered up, but I got it on. Sorry no pics.
 
I'm gonna replace the door glass channel slides too (original) as well as lube up the window mechanisms. The passenger door wasn't aligned very good from the factory so I decided to adjust it while I'm doing all this work with the windows and seals. It was low in the front, high in the rear and too far in on the bottom. Hard to tell from the pics -

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On the previous engine I used a Moroso water pump drive which also turned the fan. It worked well but this time I'm gonna go with an electric fan. I settled on this 12in dual fan set up in an aluminum shroud. I will keep the Moroso w/p drive to turn the pump.

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This is one nice build! Have fun with the progress.
 
New overflow bottle and fabricated bracket.

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Fan relays and mount bracket.

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Here is bottle mounted - Im gonna re-do the hose/tube . Not diggin' the diagonal routing.

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And the relays mounted - next up wiring. Got some wire terminals on order.

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Got some more parts in - DOTI manufacturing billet low mount alternator bracket and timing pointer. This is a nice piece.

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I also picked up these M/T valve covers, got a good price on 'em and they are polished.

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Got the passenger door adjusted, now the side trim actually lines up nice!

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That's better then the factory ever did.
 
Back to the fans/shroud/overflow bottle/relays - I drilled 15 1-1/4 holes across the top of the shroud to allow more airflow thru the radiator when the car is moving. I bought some 1/16 rubber sheet to make flaps to cover the holes so the fans don't just suck air thru them instead of the core. It was a lot of work but I'm very happy with the result - hopefully it works.

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Rubber flaps cut out.

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I also finished up the fan & relays wiring - the green zip ties are temporary.

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The fans relays harness follows along the drivers inner fender with the headlite harness.

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The power source for the relays is a 50 amp breaker mounted on the M/C stiffener plate. The other one is for the MSD box.

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lastly - like I mentioned in an earlier post I re-routed the overflow bottle line/hose/tube. Looks much better now. Here you can also see how the rubber flaps look completed.

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After waiting 3 months and no progress on machine work I was forced to pick up my stuff and find another shop. I called Bob Mazzolini for help and he referred me to QMP in Chatsworth CA (San Fernando valley) So on the 3rd I drove the 306 miles (1-way) to drop it off and get it done.
 
That's my biggest fear. It is so hard finding a shop for machine work that is consistent.They are always a mix of good and bad stories. Months back I asked you for advise on a good shop,I guess I won't be going there.
 
They say that your parts going into "parts shop prison" with sentences of over 1 year with no getting out early...lol
By the way, good job on your work.
 
That's my biggest fear. It is so hard finding a shop for machine work that is consistent.They are always a mix of good and bad stories. Months back I asked you for advise on a good shop,I guess I won't be going there.

I had used the guy in the past and he was great, did nice work too. He said he was having health issues, migraine headaches and other things. I couldn't wait any longer.
 
6 weeks and counting at the second machine shop so been working on something else that always bugged me. The door bars of the roll cage interfere with the door arm rest pads so I had to remove them. I just screwed the bases to the door by themselves but there is nothing to grab to shut the door.

I got some crusty arm rest pads from a fellow FBBO member, he stripped the foam off 'em before he shipped 'em. I cleaned and trimmed them down.

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I made some plates out of aluminum that share the same silhouette as the arm rest pads. The plates will attach to the bases with the trimmed arm rest pad base sandwiched in between it and the plastic base.

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My original bases were bad off, I bought some chrome paint and sprayed them - not quite chrome (compared to the cap and a new repro base) but good enough for the Brick.

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I wanted to paint the plates Navy Blue Wrinkle finish but could not find any so I settled on black.

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Finished product - now as you can see from the right pic there is something to grab onto when closing the door instead of the window crank or wind wing latch!

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8 weeks and counting, they got the heads surfaced - still waiting on the block work. Back to the door refurbish.

blew passenger door apart, vacuumed, cleaned, & waxed the paint on inside of door. The car still had white overspray on the blue paint some 54 years later. I was able to get it off.

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clean & prep window -

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New window glides - very different from the originals and tight in the channel - hopefully not too tight. Had some other issues with the cat whiskers too . . . it's always something.

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Cleaned & lubed up the regulator

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Well, the inner door cat whiskers don't fit right - the clips were attached too low on the part - I was hoping to finish this up today but it seems something always goes sideways . . . upper new, lower original.

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Here it is installed - sits way too high. Time to call the supplier and have it out . . .

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Update -

Got the heads back to my cylinder head guy to finish them up. Also the machine shop called with an update - block is finally in the machine for line bore, then sguare the deck and deck height measurement so I can order pistons. I'm having some valve cover spacers custom made, they will be 1/2 tall and seal with o-rings so no valve cover gaskets! Here are pics of me test fitting the templates, some adjustments were needed.

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Got some parts painted - this time around I will paint all the aluminum parts so they stay nice longer and will clean easily.

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Can you snap a pic of your a pillar bar beside the glove box? My bar is in the way, so I can't open the glove box door. I'll probably have to push out the bar some.
 
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