Bb70charger500
Well-Known Member
That's a nice mustang you have there!
That might of been your issue the ford was rubbing off!
Better luck next time !
7 Rounds and 2 Tons of FUN!
- Thread starter Wookie316
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That's a nice mustang you have there!
That might of been your issue the ford was rubbing off!
Better luck next time !
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
Yes my MPH on the big end wins me races. It’s 2MPH faster with the radial. Track conditions were not great and spun all day Friday. How I went 5 rounds that day was pure luck. So I switched to the bias for the feature Saturday. Smart move on my part.
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
I probably need to go with a higher spring rate or tighter valving in the shock, but here is where I am at currently.
I am maxed on compression front and rear.
Viking double adjustable front and rear. 18 clicks each.
Street Lynx rear with solid rod ends.
Alterkation up front.
Rebound on the rear is 15 and 8 on the front.
A guy at the track with a 68 Charger said to tighten the front rebound up to control the rate it comes up at. It may help the rear squat also?
It was also suggested to tighten the rear rebound up to control the suspension rise after the squat.
Being such a big car, higher spring rate springs may be the solution, but looking for opinions with what you see. Thanks.
Appreciate the heads up on launching Doug. I’ll think on that.
I can easily tune some height out of it and likely pull a better 60’ but with running into the 10.0’s (when I was) I figured let it stand up and stay on the top side of 10.0.
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Squat is from low/long I/C location. Squat pulls the tire into the body, thus tire spin. At our power lever the housing needs to separate from the body. It may not need much, but it needs some. Is there any adjustment on the angle of the link bars?
Doug
Doug
Tilt the upper bar up in the rear/down in front. Or the lower bar down in the rear/up in front. If thats not possible your going to have a tough time. That things got plenty left in ET. at least a .10, probably more
Doug
Tilt the upper bar up in the rear/down in front. Or the lower bar down in the rear/up in front. If thats not possible your going to have a tough time.
Doug
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
Here is a photo earlier in the year. I still had bushing end 4 link bars and softer compound radials on. Also the rear suspension height was about 2” higher than it is now. The car 1.38-60 foot then. The car is a 1.42 60 now but it has harder compound radials and the ride height is lower. So I am thinking I need to move the ride height back up to angle the bars more after how you have explained things to me. I wrote the lesser 60 off to different compound slicks and track conditions. Now I am thinking that angle on those bars may be the issue. I also think I need to control rebound on the front more. It comes up too fast.
Wooks you need some mods to your brackets and some more adjustment capability. More holes. Then it will come around for you too.
Look what a guy sent to me this morning.
Too bad my fuel system was letting the fire go out at mid track.. That's getting fixed!
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
Yeah the way the brackets are, I would have to design new ones for sure. I am testing the limit of a street 4 link that is for sure.
When I get it on my new hoist next week I can make the necessary adjustments before the final race.
When I get it on my new hoist next week I can make the necessary adjustments before the final race.
Raising the body will angle both arms upward raising the instant center. This will reduce squat. A mid size GM or Fox body have similar suspension to the Street Lynx. Probably a good source of info on basic set up.
Doug
Doug
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As a general rule, if you see a fox mustang that is lowered, and hooks,it doesnt have a stock type rear suspension. Ladders or parallel 4link.
The malibus and foxes that hook on stock type four links are stock height or higher
Imho.
The malibus and foxes that hook on stock type four links are stock height or higher
Imho.
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
So if I am able to modify the top brackets to get the top bars angled down at the front. Am I shooting for the same angles top and bottom bars?
Going to try and get this thing working better for the last race.
Going to try and get this thing working better for the last race.
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
Modified front lower bracket. Now has 1/2” mounting bolts. Got another 2 degrees up on the lower bar. Will talk to my welder friend tomorrow. Upper rod will be more challenging for sure.
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