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Sputtering, Hesitating, stalling

junkpile said:
o.k. thank you all for the advise.

one more question coming. I am running the Eddy 750 on this 30 over 440 with a 484/284 cam and have run this fuel pump for years. Would you suggest using the Eddy fuel pump that flow 110 gph at 6psi max or the Carter that flow 120 gph but has a range of 6.9-9.5?

I definately dont want too much pressure, just volume. Carter has a super street pump that is rated at 120 gpm at 5.5-6.5 but I see no listing for use with a 440.
Click to expand...
JP,
The Carter pump you mentioned has a 120 GPM @ 7 PSI (nomimal). Do you REALLY mean 120 GPH at the same pressure?
I would suggest the Edlebrock (aka "Eddy") pump at the advertised rating (your numbers) of 110 GPH @ 6 PSI will be more than sufficient OR a stock Carter replacement for your application.
FYI...I use a stock Carter pump for my RS23V0A******* GTX, an origional six barrel engine with the Crane equal to the Mopar 292° 0.509" lift cam. I've not have had a fuel VOLUME issue feeding 1350 CFMs of Holley carbs at wide open throttle the end of a 1/4 mile contest even with with 4.10:1 Dana 60 gears at 6500 RPM.
Just my opinion of course. Others will have their own opinions and preferences.
Bob Renton
 
yea I meant 120 GPH not gpm. I was more concerned with the pressure. EDDY says its carbs dont like pressure over 6.5-7. I think your right, i need the volume to solve my problems but the existing carter I have was put on years ago by a guy. Its the model that you can clock in different positions and has the screw in fittings and that would be the strip model, and has a higher psi rating and i did not know if for year i have been supply too much psi to the carb since the volume is good at 120 gph
 
JP,
One gallon of gasoline weighs approximately: 6.01 pounds. Converting this to pounds / hour = 0.17 #/hr.
To determine max fuel flow required to be delivered by the pump, you need to determine the maximum air flow (corrected for density and temperature) of the engine and the fuel flow required at that air flow. When you determine the number, add an additional 10% - 15% to insure an adequate volume will be available.
FYI...this is what the electronic engine management systems do by measuring the mass air flow in grams/second, temperature, RPM's, manifold absolute pressure (inverse of vacuum), spark advance, speed, fuel type calculations (% of ethanol in fuel being used), etc, all in a micro second time base......OR .....take a few educated guesses or by the old time tested method.
Bob Renton
 
I’m lost. Still think it’s heat/ethanol related.
 
Dennis H said:
I’m lost. Still think it’s heat/ethanol related.
Click to expand...
Dennis,
Just what do you not understand? What is the percentage of ethanol is in the fuel? What is the temperature involved? Are you referring to a vapor lock issue or evaporation rate of the fuel bowels during a hot soak? In the Carter design, the primary booster venturii control the idle fuel emulsion characteristics and as a result are subject to temperature and fuel levels which are subject to fuel's vapor pressure index. If fuel is percolating due to heat or ethanol content, you must try and minimize the heat thru isolation. Unfortunately not much can be done about the ethanol percentage of the fuel. Try and minimize the use of octane boosters especially if they contain a MANGANESE based compound which can create combustion chamber deposits especially on the spark plugs. Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton
 
Owned the car since 1988. Used Sunoco Ultra 94 back East years ago. Best here is 91 with ethanol in it. These normal 180-200 degree issues did not exist before the introduction of the ethanol. I can’t get anything else here. Did the spacer, wrapping relocating with no luck. OP says he can buy non ethanol, so I don’t know what the fuel blend is in that region. Only way to solve for me was to switch to modern efi.
 
Dennis H said:
Owned the car since 1988. Used Sunoco Ultra 94 back East years ago. Best here is 91 with ethanol in it. These normal 180-200 degree issues did not exist before the introduction of the ethanol. I can’t get anything else here. Did the spacer, wrapping relocating with no luck. OP says he can buy non ethanol, so I don’t know what the fuel blend is in that region. Only way to solve for me was to switch to modern efi.
Click to expand...
Dennis,
Look at SUNOCO Racing fuels and someone in your area that sells it. You can buy LEADED blended fuels or just about any combination - leaded, unleaded 115 octane - you may like to try.....but....its very $$$$ but it works just fine for me. Living in California, makes it extremely difficult for you to modify just about anything relating to a car or an internal combustion engine.....which is sad. Your legislators have just about killed automobiles.....next thing you'll be looking to improve acceleration on your battery powered Honda or Toyota.......what price progress.
Bob Renton
 
In my opinion it most likely is the accelerator pump, worn and shrunk from the ethanol in the fuel, an inexpensive fix but the most propable cause of hesitation.
 
My carb has a composite 1/4" spacer between it and the intake. I have used 91 octane pump gas, most of the time I use 104 octane booster but not always. The 750 has a .070x.037 metering rod thu a 110 jet. 043 squiters. The timing is on spec, I am waiting on a new fuel pump as we speak (from edelborock). I was reviewing my notes and I was using the PINK step up spring rated at 7"hg, so I changed it out for the silver (stiffiest spring) but have not got to test the car due to rain.

If this does not help, I will have to either save up for the new AVS2 800 carb (which would kill me because I have bought 2 carbs for this car already) or just pull this motor and find something else to put in it that is stock. This has been a constant headache, everyone has great suggestions but that bog has persisted. I have limited time to work on it and I cant trust it pulling in traffic because of the bog at 3/4 throttle. I dont want to wreck the car, or hurt my kids that ride with me. this seems to be a carb issue, but Eddy cant solve the problem and I am tired of trying
 
worth a mention, where is your fuel line routed? close to a heat source or away and clamped properly.
the reason I ask is I a 360 with headers and other junk that developed a vapor lock issue with a stock fuel pump and carter carb. I had the same hesitation etc.
I ended up re-routing the steel line from the pump off the engine and away from the heat a little more with secure clamps and the problem was solved.
the engine ran at normal operating temps before and after.
something to look at
 
Junk pile

You mentioned your waiting on a new fuel pump

Did you ever pull / verify the fuel pump rod length ?

Want verification first if this was proper length and not worn
 
ok so I drove the Charger with the new acc pump installed, the car is back to its original power, quick off the line mid range power is so much better, like it suppose to run, I also added the fuel enzyme additive Star Tron. I small repair and some research went a long way, all these performance issues because of the ethanol fuel.
 
another note, the engine actually never hesitated, it did not have any power when I started off and going up hills at a certain speed, lack of power because there was not any fuel squirting in the carb!
 
mopar73dge said:
ok so I drove the Charger with the new acc pump installed, the car is back to its original power, quick off the line mid range power is so much better, like it suppose to run, I also added the fuel enzyme additive Star Tron. I small repair and some research went a long way, all these performance issues because of the ethanol fuel.
Click to expand...

PLEASE....Enlighten the rest of the the motoring public....what in the world is STAR TRON.and what is a fuel enzyme? How does it work, how does it modify gasoline chemically, what is it chemically? It sounds like its a "snake oil" product that works on the mind of the user. Perception is a wonderful thing...it fixes a multitude of things...... Remember back to the days when motorists added moth balls to their gas tank to increase octane and horse power. Moth balls are a crystalline solid of methyl napthalene, which when dissolved in gasoline released "pure energy in your engine" or so we were told....by the advertiser. Have we gone full circle sgain?
I'm glad your car and engine are back to normal and you are satisfied with the results...after all you only have to please yourself. Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton
 
mopar73dge said:
another note, the engine actually never hesitated, it did not have any power when I started off and going up hills at a certain speed, lack of power because there was not any fuel squirting in the carb!
Click to expand...

Really tough to diagnose when your HEADLINE says: " Sputtering, HESITATING, Stalling." However, a good outcome is always a good thing...
 
Not to ridicule or admonish your results, I Googled the product and it seems as if they make a plethora of cleaning products aimed at just about every aspect of life....from aardvarks to zepplins, ftom the top of your head to the bottom of your feet, from boats to autmobiles and everything in between. So....the best thing I should do is buy some and try it. Seeing is believing, don't knock a book by its cover, leave no stone unturned, I'm from Missouri, so "show me" and WTF...why not...what do have to loose? As long as you're satisfied, thats all that matters.
Bob Renton
 
It's been a month since the OP last posted on this dead topic!
junkpile said:
The rod between the cam and pump never occured to me. I could try that as well. Who sells the Rod?
Click to expand...
Your favorite search engine will yield you many results!

coloradodave said:
Really tough to diagnose when your HEADLINE says: " Sputtering, HESITATING, Stalling." However, a good outcome is always a good thing...
Click to expand...

Come on Dave! Pay attention to who your making your comment to vs. who the OP really is! Your comment has no meaning! It must be that California weed?:poke::poke:
 
Advance Auto Parts and evryone else sells it, try it out, that and Marvel Mystery oil another good product has great results in my experiance and in my opinion.
 
69a100: Please, please block me from your computer. That way you don't have to worry your self about the hidden meaning of my posts...I don't wish to add any stress to your brain.
Thank you.
 
mopar73dge said:
Advance Auto Parts and evryone else sells it, try it out, that and Marvel Mystery oil another good product has great results in my experiance and in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Marvel Mystery Oil.....???? What types of maladies is it supposed to "cure"? Is it added to the lube oil, fuel system, transmission, or ???? I'm not doubting your results but in general, additives contribute only to the owners cost of operation. I'm just dubious....
Bob Renton
 
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