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440 /6pac carb kits ?

ha ha , I even thought of going crazy and putting a shaker hood conversion. Never seen it done on a 67 Bcuda ! Parts not cheap thou !
 
Rather than goldbay, If you go direct to Jegs you may get it 25 cheaper. You'll likely need it for the filter……...
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63SPF,
Perhaps you should go back to your Uncle to see if he still has the pieces he removed. Would save you a few $$.
To be brutally honest, the best thing your Uncle should have done was to leave it the way the factory designed it. There are just too many "experts" that think they know the "best" way to fix a non existent (but perceived) issue. It seems as if the day, when carb fundamentals were taught, they were absent that day.
Rather than fumbling and blindly proceeding, investigate several of the premier carb rebuilders mentioned on this forum. They have both the skills, parts, and experience to restore your items to origional appearance and functionality. My opinion: spend the $$$$ and have it done correctly by someone that knows how, even if it means sending back to the mainland.
Since you did not pay for the setup, spend the $$$$ to make it look correct and function like what you expect. My guess on the approximate cost to restore all stuff to like new appearance and functionality is: $1500-$2000 including shipping to/from the mainland.
BTW.....I've visited your state several times on vacation.... Maui, Kauai, the Big ISLAND.....MAGNIFICENT in all regards......I just wish I could afford to live there.....i'll be going back next year .... maybe to Kona??
Best of luck with your project....keep us informed.
Cheers,
Bob Renton
 
Attached should tell you most of the information you need to know for parts access. Not knowing how much money you want to spend; but, take it from someone who has dealt with six packs since 1969. You can rebuild yourself, but save your self some headaches and be guaranteed the carbs will be killer and send them to [email protected]. He is reasonable on price and when you get them back all you have to do is bolt them on and minor tune to your application
 

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63SPF,
A few comments first.
IMHO....
1. Throw away all the fuel line pieces. Totally incorrect, fuel comes in from the ftont.
2. Some "expert" (??) Removed all of the center carb's choke linkage and parts, including the choke shaft and choke plate.
3. The same "expert", modified the linkage on the drivers side to mechanically open the end carbs simultaneously with the center carb....why?
4., Without totally dis-assembling the carbs individually, its difficult to determine if this "expert" modified any of the interal metering components.
5. Because the linkages have been bastardized, it is likely that the end carb diaphragms have been "modified" by the "expert".
6. Upon closer inspection and examination there may be other changes.
7. Are the carbs original (check the R numbers and build date codes) or they a different pieces and parts.
8. Are you making a tribute restoration or restoring a REAL V code car?
Rebuild kits are available from Holley, along with the replacement of the missing choke psrts. Standard motor products also sells excellent kits. Off brand rebuild kits use a modified fuel inlet adjustment arrangement. Depending on the degree of correctness you want or can afford, there are several very competent restorerers....not inexpensive though. How good a job can you afford?

First impression of your purchase: it looks as if everything went thru a **** storm. The Mopar six barrel/six pack is a thing of beauty and a joy forever (my feelings) and when set up correctly, it will perforn excellently (my opinion). Hopefully, the $$$$$ you spent on the purchase will be less than $$$$ it will take to refurbish the carbs back to their origional functionality and appearance. There is an old expression: CAVIET EMPTOR....let the buyer beware.... definitely applies here. Just my opinion of course.
PS ...I own an origional RS23VOA GTX with numbers matching setup.
Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton
Hi Bob,
I just acquired a 70 RR 440+6. So, I am new to "For B bodies only". My car had been sitting for at least 4 years (85 total miles since sometime in 2017). Any way when I manually open the throttle linkage (not running) to WOT the outboard carbs do not engage. On my linkage there is a nut & bolt into a curved flange (if that is what it is called) that should open the outboard carbs if tightened properly?? It isn't and has frozen (because of lack of use over time?). My question is to you and other interested/knowledgeable members is where would you recommend positioning the nut & bolt on the curved flange? I don't plan on racing the car (at least not yet) but would suspect that using all three carbs instead of just a 2 barrel 440 might be a bit more entertaining. Is there a recommended source to get an OEM style nut/bolt/washer arrangement? I called Holley who referred me to Daytona Parts who referred me to 6 Pack Performance who didn't answer the phone. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Eric Johnson
 
Hi Bob,
I just acquired a 70 RR 440+6. So, I am new to "For B bodies only". My car had been sitting for at least 4 years (85 total miles since sometime in 2017). Any way when I manually open the throttle linkage (not running) to WOT the outboard carbs do not engage. On my linkage there is a nut & bolt into a curved flange (if that is what it is called) that should open the outboard carbs if tightened properly?? It isn't and has frozen (because of lack of use over time?). My question is to you and other interested/knowledgeable members is where would you recommend positioning the nut & bolt on the curved flange? I don't plan on racing the car (at least not yet) but would suspect that using all three carbs instead of just a 2 barrel 440 might be a bit more entertaining. Is there a recommended source to get an OEM style nut/bolt/washer arrangement? I called Holley who referred me to Daytona Parts who referred me to 6 Pack Performance who didn't answer the phone. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Eric Johnson
Eric,
Good afternoon, I trust that you are well and prospering this day and welcome to the forum. Ill be happy to help you in any way I can to understand and get your car running great.....
The best way to yo carry on is thru the private message system or direct to my email address. [email protected]. let me chew on your questions and get back to you later today. We'll get you going....
Cheers,
BOB RENTON
 
Only kits worth putting in holley carbs are holley kits. Mancini racing should be able to supply you all the parts you need. Put stock linkage on it and get the outboards to function with vacuum. Since it’s not a resto I’d switch it to a braided AN setup for the fuel lines.
 
Hi Bob,
I just acquired a 70 RR 440+6. So, I am new to "For B bodies only". My car had been sitting for at least 4 years (85 total miles since sometime in 2017). Any way when I manually open the throttle linkage (not running) to WOT the outboard carbs do not engage. On my linkage there is a nut & bolt into a curved flange (if that is what it is called) that should open the outboard carbs if tightened properly?? It isn't and has frozen (because of lack of use over time?). My question is to you and other interested/knowledgeable members is where would you recommend positioning the nut & bolt on the curved flange? I don't plan on racing the car (at least not yet) but would suspect that using all three carbs instead of just a 2 barrel 440 might be a bit more entertaining. Is there a recommended source to get an OEM style nut/bolt/washer arrangement? I called Holley who referred me to Daytona Parts who referred me to 6 Pack Performance who didn't answer the phone. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Eric Johnson
Eric,
To continue this discussion, the outboard carbs are vacuum operated, receiving the opening pressure signal from the center carbs venturii pressure. Air flow thru the center carb's venturii is measured at the apex of the venturii wall on the choke linkage side, and is connected to the end carb vacuum diagram housings with hoses. The curved flange you mentioned is a closing cam, which forces the end carbs to close, when the center carb is closed (from wide open), because the end carbs do not have any return springs (other than the opening diaphragm housings).
Some people put a small bolt/nut in this curved flange to force the end carbs to open....but....because the end carbs do not have accelerator pumps to supply fuel b4 the carbs booster venturii start feeding fuel, a flat spot or bog, will result. This is in spite of what the next door's neighbor's brother-in- law's cousin's best friend's uncle's nephew's sister's husband's buddy said.....
Early production carb's had an issue with the end carbs throttle plates sticking closed. This was fixed by changing the bevel angle on the throttle plates.
Much has been written about setting the idle mixtures of the end carbs. Are your carbs origional or after market? Is your car a true 6 barrel car or a created car? If your car is origional, the VIN number would be something like this: RM21V0A****** , OR RM23VOA OR RM29VOA. It really does not matter if origional or built, the problems are similar. My original GTX is: RS23V0A******.
As I mentioned b4, send me a Private Message or e-mail and ill help you as much as i can.....
BOB RENTON
 
I bought the 6pak rebuild kit from Mancini, but it was anything but complete. It had enough stuff for the center carb, and a couple dozen other items that were related to other 2 barrel carbs. So I called Holley directly and ordered all my stuff directly from them. I think it was Dean who helped me, and after over $200 of purchasing, I had all the right parts to rebuild my carbs. I was very disappointed with the kit I got from Mancini, it’s was $49 worth of wasted money. I did all the work myself, and the carbs work flawlessly. Although, I wouldn’t mind stopping by Bob Renton’s house to have him give them the fine tune, as I wouldn’t feel comfortable having anybody touch them but him or Bob Karkashian.
 
What is wrong with the setup you have on the car in your pictures? Doesn't the dual 4 barrels and the 6 pack perform pretty much the same?
I like both setups equally.
 
What is wrong with the setup you have on the car in your pictures? Doesn't the dual 4 barrels and the 6 pack perform pretty much the same?
I like both setups equally.

The differences between the Holley six barrel set up and the Carter two 4 barrel set up on the Hemi is significant in both design and operation. The air flow capacity being a major factor followed by the progressive, staged operation of the secondary (front) carbs opening point and rate. The Carter AFB design used velocity actuated secondary air valve (above throttle plates and below booster venturii) start feeding fuel and mechanically connected to the primary carb (rear carb). The six barrel setup uses strictly vacuum operated secondaries (front and rear carbs) on a capacity basis. Ttue...both system operate seamlessly when set up correctly and are a thing to behold......Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
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