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65 B Body Axle Seal Install Green Bearing

stanhope55

stanhope55

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Hi

I am converting to green bearings. I seem to have a lot of parts for this job. I have attached a picture of a possible install order.

I have some questions, I labeled the pictures with numbers of the parts I think go in sequence.

I know #1 goes on first... bearing retainer. # 2 is the supplied gasket for the bearing retainer. #3 and #4 are a shim and gasket.... I don't think they are needed ? Can anyone confirm this... and lastly# 5 green bearing followed by locking ring.

Question is once again....... why do I have or need # 3 and #4... there is no shimming correct ?

Running stock 8 3/4 housing.

thx

bearing.jpg
 
you do not use 3 and 4. No shimming needed. Just bolt in and fill
with oil. You can eliminate the inner axle seals if you want, but I left mine in. First I would check to see if you need to remove the thrust block. Put your axles in and see if they are flush, (if they stick out a bunch do not try and bolt it down you will cause problems) if not remove the thrust block. If everything is stock you should not need to remove the thust block.
 
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If you have a clutch Sure grip you need to remove the thrust spacer inside the sure grip. You DO NOT have to take apart the chuck. You'll need to remove from the housing. Take a long punch and knock lock pin out where axle goes in. Have a magnet handy so if you need it. The pictures are to better show the internal parts.

sg5.PNG
 
I just pressed on green bearings and am about to install the axles. I thought the shims were still needed between the housing and backing plates. What are the shims for then?
 
stanhope55 said:
Hi

I am converting to green bearings. I seem to have a lot of parts for this job. I have attached a picture of a possible install order.

I have some questions, I labeled the pictures with numbers of the parts I think go in sequence.

I know #1 goes on first... bearing retainer. # 2 is the supplied gasket for the bearing retainer. #3 and #4 are a shim and gasket.... I don't think they are needed ? Can anyone confirm this... and lastly# 5 green bearing followed by locking ring.

Question is once again....... why do I have or need # 3 and #4... there is no shimming correct ?

Running stock 8 3/4 housing.

thx

View attachment 409709
Click to expand...
There is a gasket in the kit that goes between the backing plate ( white foam) and one that is meant for the original bearing retainer plate. If your going rear disk you really don't need the foam ones. It appears as if you got a bitched gasket kit that's meant to do both sides. You realize that if you have a posi, and remove the center pin the internal clutches will not release on cornering as the pin unloads the clutches by pushing one axle sideways. If your green bearings come with seals on both side you can pry the inboard seals off to allow diff lube to run down the tubes to the bearing.
 
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If your running stock axle bearings the metal sealing gasket would go behind brake baking plate and the foam would go on outside of brake backing plate. I'd lean to putting them on a street car. Dirt and water getting inside.

If 2 and 3 are the same only use one of them per side.
 
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Yatzee said:
You realize that if you have a posi, and remove the center pin the internal clutches will not release on cornering as the pin unloads the clutches by pushing one axle sideways. If your green bearings come with seals on both side you can pry the inboard seals off to allow diff lube to run down the tubes to the bearing.
Click to expand...
I've never heard that about removing the pin. Do you mean the button?
 
For cone type SGs, Dr Diff (Cass) says no need to remove the thrust spacer. I hope he's right as I just installed the pig and am about to install the axles with green bearings.

IMG_4262.JPG
 
Glenwood said:
For cone type SGs, Dr Diff (Cass) says no need to remove the thrust spacer. I hope he's right as I just installed the pig and am about to install the axles with green bearings.

View attachment 409894
Click to expand...
I was going by what several guys on the Site said. Said bearing wouldn't be seated?I hope Cass is right. I have a Dana 60 with the pin in it. Had another Dana 60 guy didn't adjust the axle end play right, to tight. Removed the axle and out came half of the thrust spacer stuck to the axle. Didn't damage anything the gear oil held it on the axle.
 
I'm guessing that the retainer won't be flush when I insert the axle shaft if Cass is wrong. I'll give it a try and see what it looks like.
 
I sent this question to Dr Diff today and Cass sent a quick reply. He says they are to keep crud away from the old style bearing but are not needed since the green bearings have an oring around them. I don't think it would hurt to install them anyway as an extra measure of protection against water and crud.
 
So i slid in the axles to check the fit and they slide in all the way but there is some back pressure like pressing against a spring for the last 1/4" or so.
Is that normal?
 
I can't answer that. If you loosened the bolts on one side does the axle stay in place?
Sunday during the day answers are hard to come by. Will be watching for comments. I'm watching because I didn't know as people have said to remove thrust spacer. Working on trans now when that's finished I'm going to drive it some and pull axle for a look see. Doubt I could knock pin in thrust spacer out looking down the axle tube. Could pull dana in about 2 hrs but who wants to.
 
I measured the housing from thrust block to the housing flange and from the snap ring on the bearing where it meets the housing flange to the end of the axle shafts. There is approx 1/8 clearance each so it's not the block. It is something to do with the way the oring seats in the housing.
 
Did you measure with one axle in? If you measured with both axles out thrust block could be toward other axle. I'd measure with one axle in.
 
Yep one in and thn both out. Made no difference. The block doesn't seem to move even when tapping on it with the steel measuring rod.
I measured the housing end with a snap gauge and there is a slight taper of about .0075. That probably explains the resistance of the oring to fully seat.
 
As a follow up on the subject of green bearings, I removed the oring and slid the axle in without issue, fully seating against the snap ring on the bearing. Dr Diff (Cass) believes that there is air trapped between the inner seal and the oring as it compresses. He says just push the axle in and bolt up the retainer and the air will work itself out over time.
I hope this helps the OP and anyone else looking to install green style bearings for the first time!
 
I posted earlier today about my right rear green bearings apparently having gone to crap. Found metal shavings/grease inside the brakes. Doing a search came across this post so thought I'd add to this old post with a couple questions. I put these in about 3 years ago and be damned if I can remember taking out the thrust spacer or not. I seem to gather in these posts there's differing advice on this. At the time had also swapped out the sure grip 3:23 to 3:55 so had the rear out but no memory of taking the spacer out. One post seems to say don't as it can impact axle action on turning? As I'm about to pull the axle out, what's the rule on this...does it require removing or no? Axles bolted into place nicely far as I remember. Thanks.
 
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