I just want to do the job once... so a decent intake gasket kit would be beneficial.
Anybody have a favorite ?
Anybody have a favorite ?
Favorite '71 440RB intake gasket kit ?
- Thread starter Skytrooper
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Are you using a stock steel intake and heads? If so, Felpro valley pan by itself will be fine. If your using aluminum stuff, then a million different combos will be said. I tried just the pan with and without sealant on brand new heads and intake both being aluminum and it leaked like a siv. I ended up finding some .015 paper gaskets and put them on both sides of the steel valley gasket using hylomar or permatex #2 non hardening sealer, and that took care of my needs. What I find interesting is the amount of people who don't realize they are sucking oil in from the valley. When I pulled my pan off by itself, the areas that are ribbed weren't crushed like they have to be to seal. There just isn't enough weight/torque you can apply to aluminum to crush that gasket to have it seal by itself unless you've got some luck on your side.
Here is the link to the .015 intake facing gaskets I used. The .030 were too thick to use and misaligned the intake bolt holes.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...M=&searchmode=partnumber&page=12&partid=28511
Here is the link to the .015 intake facing gaskets I used. The .030 were too thick to use and misaligned the intake bolt holes.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...M=&searchmode=partnumber&page=12&partid=28511
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slepr1
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I used the Felpro valley pan, had it powder coated (not the gasket area), and installed. I only have around 400 kms on it so far and no leaks. I have aluminum heads and aluminum intake.
I use to paint the VP but it never stayed sharp. Hoping this will last longer.
I use to paint the VP but it never stayed sharp. Hoping this will last longer.
You should consider using the valley pan with the heat riser ports blocked off.
I'm guessing the car will only be driven when 50+ degrees outside.
Actually, the last one I put on was not the "blocked off" style.
It came with the car so instead of buying a new one, I cut up some aluminum flashing folded it and stuffed it in the holes of the intake.
Probably 90-95% blocked.
Cost nothing, no issues.
I'm guessing the car will only be driven when 50+ degrees outside.
Actually, the last one I put on was not the "blocked off" style.
It came with the car so instead of buying a new one, I cut up some aluminum flashing folded it and stuffed it in the holes of the intake.
Probably 90-95% blocked.
Cost nothing, no issues.
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Yes, stock intake and heads. It looks like you get 4 gaskets with the valley pan in the kit. So there is a gasket on each side of the valley pan. I do plan on driving when it is 50 and above. So, go without heat riser openings ?
Yes and if your using stock stuff just use the felpro valley pan by itself and no sealer. It'll seal fine with the tin only on iron stuff. No need for the paper gaskets in your case at all. I have mixed feelings on heat riser. Stock carb and choke use the open style so the carb gets the warm air. Aftermarket stuff and no or electric choke, use the blocked off style. You won't notice a difference either way if you aren't trying to use a stock choke pull off on the intake in our NY summers. It doesn't get that hot that it makes a huge diff. I've used both no problems with the stock style choke pull off deleted.
I use a bit of RTV in the corners where the head meets the block and across the block.
WP29440SE
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I always use a thin layer of sealer around the ports on both sides of the pan and sealer on the head side around the walls. I never get leaks.
Oh yea gotta do that for sure. That and a thin layer on the ends where the valley tin meets the block.
So there is no need for the gaskets themselves ?
No, just a thin film of sealant and you are good. Dry fit everything first make sure the ports and bolt holes line up
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I get the FelPro kit from Mancini.
I have always only used the aluminum, one-piece valley pan/head gasket w/risers blocked.
I ALWAYS use a thin bead of silicone encircling the intake ports. Other places too that I can't think of right now, including the corners where the heads meet the valley.
I have always only used the aluminum, one-piece valley pan/head gasket w/risers blocked.
I ALWAYS use a thin bead of silicone encircling the intake ports. Other places too that I can't think of right now, including the corners where the heads meet the valley.
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Fel Pro 1215 has the heat crossover ports blocked.
I use paper gaskets along with the tin because I have thicker head gaskets and the valley tin ports align better with the paper gaskets in place.
I use paper gaskets along with the tin because I have thicker head gaskets and the valley tin ports align better with the paper gaskets in place.
Excellent !! Thank you all for the assistance !
One final question on this....
Does the blocked off riser port pertain to manual or automatic choke carb ? Does it matter either way ?
Does the blocked off riser port pertain to manual or automatic choke carb ? Does it matter either way ?
From the factory they were all automatic choke, with the heat source for the bi-metallic spring being the passage through the intake.
As the spring warmed up it would push the choke open.
This helped get the choke off sooner, a good thing. It also helped eliminate icing during our Rochester winter months.
But since you don't plan to drive it in cold weather and most aftermarket carbs no longer would use the factory choke assembly it's really not needed.
Additionally keeping the carb cooler means a lower charge temperature and less chance to vapor lock and boil.
I think you will be happier with the block off style, but don't expect an extra 30 HP.
As the spring warmed up it would push the choke open.
This helped get the choke off sooner, a good thing. It also helped eliminate icing during our Rochester winter months.
But since you don't plan to drive it in cold weather and most aftermarket carbs no longer would use the factory choke assembly it's really not needed.
Additionally keeping the carb cooler means a lower charge temperature and less chance to vapor lock and boil.
I think you will be happier with the block off style, but don't expect an extra 30 HP.
Thanks Don ! Should I go with automatic choke or is manual preferable ?
I have electric on my Carter. It works well.
The problem with manual is you are kind of guessing based on ambient temp, how long it's been running etc..
So there is a chance you have too much choke which is not a good thing.
Then if you pull it off too quickly and it quits, you pump the gas choke it and once again the possibility of too much fuel.
Also you are the only one who "knows" how to drive it.
So I vote automatic.
The problem with manual is you are kind of guessing based on ambient temp, how long it's been running etc..
So there is a chance you have too much choke which is not a good thing.
Then if you pull it off too quickly and it quits, you pump the gas choke it and once again the possibility of too much fuel.
Also you are the only one who "knows" how to drive it.
So I vote automatic.
Ok ! Thanks again Don
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