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Pushbutton a no go

matthon

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Small block, pushbutton, 64, rebuilt 318 2 barrel.
Have been driving over a year.
Last year the trans urinated all over the garage floor when I got home.
Turned out the kickdown seal was bad, stiff.

My understanding was the converter was probably draining down, that's why no leaks when driving around all day.

Fixed it, everything ok.

In the mornings a few months ago it would back out and take off fine, but then not shift. I would put it in second, nothing, put in first it would drop down, and not really want to shift back up. Thing is, initially I never felt it shift up to second.

A little research, I just let it warm up a little more, it was fine. I would leave quickly most days, and it would sort itself out once I put it in first and went thru the gears manually.

Took it out last week same deal, but it had warmed up, but then it wouldn't move forward at all. First worked, it would shift but no 2nd or 3rd.

Went home, reverse fine, checked fluid, fine, no leaks. Topped it off, above full, no change. Let it be.

Went to move it today, warmed it up, put in reverse, nothing. Gas it a little and it would kick in.
Nothing in first, or second, third was the same as reverse.

I just read to let it run in neutral first, which I can try tomorrow, but going from first and reverse working to reverse and third working, just not initially, seems odd.

The car sat for decades, and I replaced everything, the motor was seized and I couldn't test out the trans. I took a chance and it worked well for a time.

I found a place to take it to, I just want to try something else if possible, or at least get some feedback so I can educate myself.
 
Sound like you are waiting (idleing) on parts to swell from the heat to function. Time for a rebuild.
 
The trans has to get fluid flowing thru it to shift could be why you may find it not shifting right off. If it sat for years one easier; but messy check is the filter in the valve body - has that been cleaned/replaced? You might have a 2nd exterior filter that could be non-functional if it was never replaced. Other simpler matter could be the band adjustments before having to get more radical...
 
I doubt it was ever rebuilt, if so it was long ago.
Motor and trans were both covered in grease when I got it, but it is a solid original car.

Guy I bought it from had it for at least 20 years and drove it a few, he bought it from someone who drove it daily.
Shows 45k miles on speedo.

Wasn't the exterior filter gone by 64?
My 62 had it, large canister mounted on the side of the engine.

I bought a filter/gasket kit but wasn't sure if the symptoms were an obvious sign of a bigger issue or not.

Adjusting bands is something I'm not familiar with, but if it can be done with hand tools I'm game.

I'm supposed to drop it off on the 23rd, and I'm ok with someone else diagnosing it if I can't figure it out by then. Still, I need to learn more about auto trans.
 
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My '62 727 had a stuck pressure valve and wouldn't go foward or reverse. Also the fluid level was way high on the dip stick even in neutral when this happened.

I had a '64 727 with a clogged filter that was having a hard time going into gear and shifting. Replaced filter and fluid and everything was good. The thing is a clogged filter is mainly from clutch material. So a good rebuild is in order especially if it's a high milage unit.

Yes 1964 had the newer internal filter and did away with the external one. Watch for what Glenwood posted.
 
I would guess the rubber seals are hard and worn out inside the transmission. There are test ports on the sides of the transmission to hook pressure gauges, or you can drop the pan and valve body and air check the band applies and clutch applies.

With the issues you are having, I would guess a rebuild is in your future.
 
Put in a TRANSGO (that brand) shift kit or reprogramming kit which will give you lube flow in park (when you do the rebuild)
Transgo also used to have the brass screen filter with two holes
or you can punch a hole in a new filter- match the one you take out
Their tech guys have been around long enough to understand the early trans
your kit will have their tech support hotline number
also remember your torque converter has the early splines
I recommend converting to the later pump with later splines and converter
may be converter hub size that changed- whatever - use the later parts when you rebuild- there were good reasons for Chrysler to make the upgrade
I have their street strip kit (HD2) in my 65 Imperial which I tow with
(D body has full steel frame through 66) brakes are the toughie as are shocks
 
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Pushbuttons have no Park position so converter drainback isn't an issue. I would pull the pan and check for a clogged filter/screen.
 
I have a park lever/cable.
It's parked right now.
Not sure I understand.
 
There's a drum on the rear of the trans that is the park parking mech/brake for those iirc......? Have you dropped the pan to see what's in it? Have a large diameter drain pan when you do that....
 
64 still had the trans mounted parking break?
I know my 65 is cable shift but shift lever
66 is shift lever and rods like all the later trans
doesn't have rear trans mounted P break 59 did
converter drainback is always an issue if you want to start and go and your converter is drained
 
No drum on rear of trans for 64, my two 62s didn't have that either.

I haven't dropped pan yet, haven't had time yet. I managed to find the filter I bought, but somehow didn't have time to open the box, how does that even happen?

I need to verify the filter I have is correct, and find a big drain pan.
 
I have a park lever/cable.
It's parked right now.
Not sure I understand.

The park mechanism is separate from the shifter so there is no Park position in the buttons. Shifters with an actual Park position do not allow the converter to refill in the Park position but this is not an issue with PB shifters.
 
The older C body cast iron trans had a e-brake on the tail.

On pushbutton trans the park sprag cable is different than the gear selector cable.

You have to check the fluid level in neutral just like any 727. Converter drain back can happen.
 
Hoping to hear this pushbutton a no go changes to pushbutton a go - go! Sounds like an old Elvis movie, lol.
 
I recommend converting to the later pump with later splines and converter
may be converter hub size that changed- whatever - use the later parts when you rebuild

Does this mean just buying a converter and pump for a 65?
And those will fit a 64 trans?

It's a 318 poly 2 barrel, and will remain that way, does it still make sense to change it from stock?

I brought it to a guy who is fully capable of rebuilding it, but admits he doesn't have much experience with these early tf pushbutton trans.

The starter ring gear is welded to the converter, not sure if the later converters are different.
We discussed this and he said he could cut it open to rebuild it, weld it back together, balance it.
 
You would have to change the transmission input shaft if you want more converter choices. I still use the original spline 64 727 with a stock converter that was tweaked to increase the stall speed when I had the transmission rebuilt. It works just fine behind my big block with a 60303 voodoo cam.
 
Before you go spending a bunch of money. Make sure the high pressure linkage is working correctly.
 
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