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74 Charger cruise control

Coronet67guy

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Hey guys,

So I just bought my first B Body to have cruise. It's rough but bought it pretty cheap and plan to make it nice again. Nothing is connected to the cruise unit. I did find one cable in the trunk that's the upper cable roughly 40 inches long. There should be a second cable connected to this unit correct? I believe it's 63 inches long. I wanted to make sure before I bought one. Here's a pic of the unit. Can anyone briefly explain how these systems worked?

Thanks!

IMG_0532.jpg
 
Looks like the lower cable is still connected..
 
Looks like the lower cable is still connected..

Probably not the best picture. I think you see either the wiring coming in that has the two connections or the vacuum line that wraps under and goes back to the brake booster. I see two connections on this with nothing connected. I can take a better picture!

IMG_7783.jpg
 
Long cable goes to the trans, short one goes to the speedometer.
Not sure which goes to the top and bottom connector.
FSM should show it.

It uses a transducer hooked into the speedometer cable to sense the speed.
The transducer controls the vacuum supplied to a diaphragm to work the throttle.
When the speed gets too low or high the transducer uses engine vacuum to pull the throttle cable or release it as necessary.
 
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Hey guys,

"So I just bought my first B Body to have cruise. It's rough but bought it pretty cheap and plan to make it nice again. Nothing is connected to the cruise unit. I did find one cable in the trunk that's the upper cable roughly 40 inches long. There should be a second cable connected to this unit correct? I believe it's 63 inches long. I wanted to make sure before I bought one. Here's a pic of the unit. Can anyone briefly explain how these systems worked? Thanks!" Here is factory training film explaining how it works:
View attachment 839569
 
Just FYI- rock auto sells CC speedo cable sets fairly cheaply.
 
Long cable goes to the trans, short one goes to the speedometer.
Not sure which goes to the top and bottom connector.
FSM should show it.

It uses a transducer hooked into the speedometer cable to sense the speed.
The transducer controls the vacuum supplied to a diaphragm to work the throttle.
When the speed gets too low or high the transducer uses engine vacuum to pull the throttle cable or release it as necessary.

Thanks for the info. Short one goes to the top.
 
NAPA sells both cables as I repaired mine on the 73 when I restored it. 3592360 (62") and 2889785 (54")
Hopefully (other than the cables) you have all the parts. The switch at the brake pedal and naturally the the stalk on the turn signal arm.
The 73-74 units only had one vacuum hose, if it's 2 it is not correct as that is a completely different setup.
But, you will also need the cable and the linkage to the carb particularly something called a lost motion link (pic). There is also a hoop attached to the brake booster to keep the cable looped so it doesn't kink. If you like in addition I can send you the service brochure to read up on the system as well.
Also the windshield reservoir tank is (or should) be on the other side. I can post pics of all.
There should be a plug at the bottom of the steering column to plug into the extension for the servo unit. To test the unit, turn the key and stalk switch on and plug in and unplug the unit to the 2 prongs. If you hear a click, it's working. If not either the servo no longer works or it is not getting 12 volts. There are so many things that can go wrong in this system, one little thing like the brake switch no adjusted properly will make it not work.
PM me if you want to chat.
WP_20141208_005.jpg
WP_20141229_006.jpg
LostMotionLink01.jpg
LostMotionLink02.jpg
WP_20141011_049.jpg
 
Those are longer than the ones I bought from RockAuto, and the upper one that came in the trunk of the car. I do have the throttle control cable and it is routed through that loop you speak off. Everything seems ready to go except no cables, so hopefully we hook that up and everything works. What is that rubber line running through that bracket in the lower pic? Mine doesn't have anything going through that opening. I see in the second picture there's nothing going through that bracket either so maybe not something I needed.

Thanks!
 
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Several of those are pictures I took of other cars at Carlisle while I was getting mine connected. Some one routed their engine vacuum line to the booster through that, don't know why. My car is actually the first 2 pictures.
As far as the length, that's what the parts book says, if yours are shorter and they work, it shouldn't be an issue. One thing I can tell you is the one that goes to the transmission routes funny and a long way around to avoid the exhaust pipes heat etc.
 
Man that sure is nice. I would love detailed pics of your engine bay and air conditioner set up. Can I pm you my number? Allow me to pick your brain since you have exactly what my goal is, all the way down to the aftermarket AC and the red top battery. My car is a factory AC car but someone has ripped it all out. I'll upload a pic of what I'm working with now. The dual snorkel is off getting painted.

1. My upper hose comes out the drivers side. Wrong radiator? Also has a fitting on the right side with two rubber hoses going nowhere.
2. Canister - facing car far left goes to carb I believe, where does the far right one lead?
3. I'm missing the manifold heat shield to fit the tube to. Anything aftermarket that I could bolt on?
4. I've ordered wires from Firecore and the three looms from classic, and some brackets from vans auto. Any help with pics of proper routing would be great!
5. How are you routing your washer fluid line up to the the T fitting in the hood?

Thanks
Alan

IMG_6027.jpg
 
Bob, why you routed the spark plug wires up to drivers valve cover like that? It goes the other way around! And reach the spark plugs from underneath the manifolds

About the vacuum to the servo control unit. It plugs to the brake booster check valve extra tee. It's a full manifold vacuum, same used by the brake booster, just that you don't need to run it to the manifold tee having a closer provision. When brakes are applied, the switch at brake pedal will deactivate the cruise control system so on that moment won't care about the vacuum stage at booster check valve.

The throttle wire bracket gets that round hole for the brake booster vacuum line, just that tipically you'll find it out of there just floating around
 
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Yes Alan, glad to help. That is not the correct rad. First, if you had AC it would be in the way of the compressor. I can look up the correct # for you when i get home, do you know what size its supposed to be 2- or 28?
Nacho, that is an old pic. The wires from Mopar were too short which isvwhy iasked for correct pics of routing several years ago. Foind an NOS set at Carlisle and they're on now. Burnt thise others up..
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Oh ok! LOL. Yes the Mopar wires available are short for the 73 and lates setup. I posted on other thread the correct measurements for our cars
 
Oh ok! LOL. Yes the Mopar wires available are short for the 73 and lates setup. I posted on other thread the correct measurements for our cars

Rick from firecore directed me to a set of his on Mancini and said the measurements I sent him from you were too long. He did say the number 7 wire runs along the valve cover and comes in from behind.
 
Wrong wrong wrong wrong....

Trust me that is wrong!

Driver side valve cover doesn’t have the provisions for the wire 7 like passenger side for the 8

THAT IS WRONG.

Maybe just correct for C bodies which got a DIFFERENT manifold similar tonthe passenger side
 
Yes Alan, glad to help. That is not the correct rad. First, if you had AC it would be in the way of the compressor. I can look up the correct # for you when i get home, do you know what size its supposed to be 2- or 28?
Nacho, that is an old pic. The wires from Mopar were too short which isvwhy iasked for correct pics of routing several years ago. Foind an NOS set at Carlisle and they're on now. Burnt thise others up..View attachment 840355

I don't see anything in the cowl tag regarding radiator, I thought it was usually there. I do have the H51 Air conditioning with heater code. So whatever radiator would've been stock with that car. I guess I'm in the market for a radiator then. Any suggestions? I don't know if I'll put AC back in this car but would like it to be correct in case someone down the road wanted to.
 
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