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Dodge coronet 1969 super bee Pro Touring Project

Be careful of your location of the fittings inside the fender on the firewall. Check to see if the front tire will clear them when turned and at full up suspension travel. On my car i could not put the bulkhead where you have it.

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Be careful of your location of the fittings inside the fender on the firewall. Check to see if the front tire will clear them when turned and at full up suspension travel. On my car i could not put the bulkhead where you have it.

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What do you all think about the under the fender routing of the A/C?
I have the Vintage Air system that has the routing under the fender, and it seems fine. No clearance issues or anything, but I have been thinking of using a custom firewall bulkhead inside the engine compartment, and running hardlines to the front near the radiator support. The under dash lines would be the hard part, likely need some 180 degree, and 90 degree A/C line ends. I already have the MasterCool 71550 Manual Crimper tool, it works great.
 
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Small update. I finished the panel for the gps/music screen, parking sensor beeper, and some buttons. Made it out of plywood, with 5mm foam layer and leather at top.
I will make some sort of trim piece to make the parking sensor nicer. It will come where the radio normally is. I will post pictures of the modified dash soon.

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Instead of NOS, the car goes Ape ****! Lol!
 
Little update. Installed the torque boxes and the Subframe connecter. I had to cut the rear torque boxes so that the Hotchkiss subframe connector could go through. The nice ring is I also welded the Subframe connectors to the rear torque box, so extra solid. Next up is installing the 4 link. Also ordered Qa1 K member, so that I can assemble complete front drivetrain.

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I'm running a similar setup on my 70 Charger. Didn't run the 4 link however. I went with the QA1 level 2 handling kit with the tubular front end. Everything bolted up nicely for me. I had posted my build on youtube, documenting a few issues I came about as I did it.
 
Worked on my drivetrain today. Made a dolly on wheels. Got the Qa1 K member in so mounted the 440 on it. Also installed the headers, steering box and starter. The Trans is also montage already. Will try to continue with drivetrain next 2 weeks and hopefully can finish it. To do are the braided fuel line, lower ball joint and disc brakes etc.

Does anybody know what size nut is needed to mount the pitman arm to the steering box?

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Either 1 1/4 or 1 5/16 for pitman arm nut.

I like what your doing, good job!
 
I welded the 4 link in today. I will be using my 8.75 rear, so welded the brackets on it also. My goal is to have all the metal work done in a month and put it in epoxy primer to start the bodywork

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I like it. Did you set ride height and the pinion angle at 0*?
 
No I mounted the leaf springs first, and attached the rear end to it. In this way I kney for sure the location of the rear end would be right etc. I will set tide height and pinion angle when assembling when the car is painted.
 
You should have set the rear end at 0* using jack stands, then welded the tabs on the rear housing all while being at near ride height. Also the lower arms should have been parallel. You might want to double check that.
 
I have been busy, but did not take photo's yet. Mainly with welding all holes in engine compartment. It were a lot of holes...
I will have the body and panels in epoxy primer in a month or so. After that the bodywork will begin.

I don't know what colour it is going to be yet. Any tips? I have the a12 hood, i considered to paint it in one of the a12 colours, hemi orange or so. But i think the colours are a little to bright in a way it takes all the attention to the colour and less to the body lines etc...

Any good suggestions?
 
I made the brackets for the AC box today, and mounted the fuel cap. I want to use the fual cap for the small fuel tank in trunk for the nitro.

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Looks awesome!! As far as color goes, I have an F8 Jade Green with slight metal flake, that gets a lot of compliments. Looks classy, but big tires and six pack hood, scream bad ***
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You should have set the rear end at 0* using jack stands, then welded the tabs on the rear housing all while being at near ride height. Also the lower arms should have been parallel. You might want to double check that.
I didn't see a reply to this by the OP, but this is CRITICAL!
Nice work. Did you setup lower arms parallel to the ground? Pinion angle set at?
 
Yes lower control arms were paralel to the ground. So that will be okay.
Been busy again, mounted the sidescoops. And welded and aligned the brackets for the hood. Almost ready for the epoxyprimer. Will be epoxy primed in 2 weeks or so. I'm planning to make the front fenders and trunk of fiberglass.

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I'm also thinking about putting a roll bar in the car with aluminium kirkey seats instead of the heavy bucket seats i have right now. Smart choice or not?
 
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